disco_al

they are aluminium pipes, and are a pain to fit. hence the cut and join method. where are they leaking from? maybe you could just cut out the middle section and leave the proper ends in place to make life easier

or just fit a red cover on the reverse light lense hat coat exit stage left......

STC3917 is the number for the pipes. it could be the little fiddly seals that seal them into the matrix as the pipes are alloy. best bet is to replace them with some rubber coolant hose and some copper pipe joiners (that's what i'd do next time i have the dash out)

What are they worth? I've possibly got the chance of a complete 87 reg G wagon for spares (it's been lightly rolled) and have seen a lot of conversions using the G wagon axles, so was wondering if they are of any use to keep/sell on.

I'm sure i've seen it here before, but i cannot find it anywhere, even using the advanced search. But has anyone got any pics of dashboard aux gauge mounting options for a 300 disco.

also on the 1.8 the thermostat pipes can leak, and as they are hidden under the inlet manifold can't always be seen. the metal coolant pipes can corrode too, introducing a leak. get the cooling system pressure tested asap, before it boils and eats the head

sounds like the switch is just worn. will it screw in another turn or two? that might make a difference.

do the hoses go harder than normal? sounds like either a dodgy thermostat, knackered/blocked rad/water pump, or worse case head gasket the water coming out of the overflow is because of the system pressurising, get the header tank "sniff" tested for combustion gasses. is there ant residue on the oil filler cap, or oily film in the header tank?

if you can find a granville stockist, they do a straight 90 oil. should be about £15 with the vat for 5 litres

as already asked, why? if it's randomly playing up, then the easiest way is to remove the abs relay from under the glovebox

firstly, yours is non edc. if it had the edc (electronic diesel control) then you wouldn't have a throttle cable. the bit on top of the injector pump is the remains of the egr (exhaust gas recirculation) system, which looks like it's been removed, or just disconnected. Have a look on your turbo, if you have a strange looking mushroom shaped object on there, with a steel pipe running to the inlet hose of the manifold, then the egr valve is still in place. as for the missing spider, that's a mystery, unless it's already been removed in the past, and the bypass fitted. the non starting problem does sound like the immoniliser not playing, although it could also be a dodgy starter relay, or even a dodgy starter motor. does it turn over quickly when it works, or is it quite lazy sounding - almost as if the battery is low on charge?

the garrett numbers do come up as a 200tdi defender on the ar turbos website. it maybe that a jeep of some description uses the same generic garrett parts, it wouldn't surprise me

mmm 956xl..... lovely sounding motor....

Spotted this on ebay this morning (yes it's quiet at work this morning ) seems like a cheap option, rather than having to fork out megabucks on a fancy one, especially as it includes the sensors as well.

interesting flow chart, bu what happens if you've got a soft top defender????

the rear discs on my disco were like that when i changed them last year. what condition are the sliders in? could be worth giving them a good clean, and make sure they are well lubed up. if they are sticking slightly, or even just binding, then when you apply the brakes it causes the caliper bracket to twist slightly.

isn't the disco and rrc system stand alone too?

temp sender is err2081 exhaust wise, paddocks do a "performance exhaust" for about £50, which is the rear section and a straight middle pipe. front pipe wise, you need an LR196J (Timax number) which has a cross reference of ESR2740, that's the flexi one. I've got a front pipe of a 110 on mine IIRC which was a LR197H (ESR2297), which doesn't have the flexi, and so is a bit cheaper.Assuming of course this is for a disco......

possibly an import from outside the uk. it wouldn't surprise me though, i spotted a 2001 registered series 1 in Gloucester a couple of months ago.

have you got Rave? if so, have a look in there under the steering section, as it is possible to adjust some of the play out of the steering box using the large nut and allen key on the top. also check all your steering joints, with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, but the engine off, this will show if there are any problems with the track rod ends etc....and don't forget the steering u/j's, a small amount of play in any of those parts can cause quite a lot of play when travelling in a straight-ish line. Also check the panhard rod bushes, and the radius arm bushes as well.

so BMW borrowed the Landrover Manual as well then

Can get you some XL ones for £46.59 each plus the vat - delivery would be about a tenner via Interparcel. They are a good quality make, i've used them before on other vehicles. IIRC they've got a 24 month warranty as well. PM me for details if you want.

what vehicle are they for?

the pump shouldn't be running all the time, it should only operate when one of the wheel speed sensors detects a wheel locking up. find the relay under the passenger dash and take it out, this will de activate the ABS system. you will still have normal brakes, just no ABS. sounds like you may either have a faulty relay somewhere, or need another valve block. somewhere on here is the procedure on how to get the blink codes for fault diagnosis, if not then they are on the internet (search wabco ABS flash codes)

you can cheat on bleeding these. if you locate the main power feed into the pump, you can disconnect it and run the pump to bleed them. recently changed the abs block on my disco, but everything bled fine with that