disco_al

what you need is a a smart load device - maypole do one, part number mp388b. can't find anything on the web, but it's in their catalogue here though on page 11

don't think it's possible. IIRC there are some bolts from the bellhousing side that go into the ladder. although i'm sure i saw a thread on here somewhere about it being done. if you get stuck and need a motor quick, i've got one up here sat doing nothing

that's just complete and utter v8 porn to the max........and not a drop of blood spilt on it either......

link 2 looks like some kind of post apocalyptic transport for footballers wives to take the kids to school in - plain butt ugly with a hint of campness thrown in for good measure.

some very valid points being made in this thread - maybe worth adding to the tech archive as an information section??? having been taught by my dad to tow trailers within weeks of passing my test, i like to think i'm pretty good at it (complacency is not a good thing, i know), but even the best can be caught out by the slightest thing - a passenger talking, kids in the back arguing, momentary lapse of concentration after spotting a rather nice looking pedestrian.....the list goes on. i have seen numerous cars/caravans on their sides or embedded in the central reservation - one of the hotspots seems to be the downhill section approaching bristol from the south (before the Geordano services heading north) and also the flat section heading south, just before weston, where there are alot of side winds from the coast. experience counts a long way to being able to tow properly and safely - speed is usually a factor, as is being too heavy on the brakes, causing the inevitable jack knife situation - lot's of people seem to forget that whilst larger trailers (over 750kg) have got brakes, they are never going to be as good as the brakes on the tow vehicle. i was alwas taught that there are only three ways out of a snake situation - speed up and hope it pulls out, slow down gently, without touching the brakes (use the gears to avoid sudden weight transfer - same as getting a blow out on a car) or wait for the inevitable. 9 times out of 10 i prefer the slow down gently option. all approved towbars should have the nose weight etc displayed on a plate mounted on the bracket - something that will cause a few headaches come MOT time in the near future, as tow brackets and electrics are being phased into the test

from the evidence you have gathered, it sounds very much to me like an insurance job - although that will be down to the insurance co to work out. the bonnet is ally, and would have melted onto the engine. the lack of plastic around the front bumper area, and the fact that the bumper was missing point strongly to it being removed, and as for the wheel nuts, well if your car catches fire the first thing you think of is getting away from it quickly, certainly not removing the wheels. sounds very suspect to me. get some pics

it just keeps getting better - main thing is that your finger is still attached to the rest of you. best wishes for a quick recovery

already got a set of extended brake lines ready to fit, so no problem there. looking at the specs, there's nearly a 90lb difference in the spring rates between the HD ones (which give 40mm) and the 2" ones

yep, they were boxed separately, rears are longer as well. it's just that they are softer than the ones i took off, hence the sag when there is weight in the back

Advice time chaps..... I fitted a +2" lift kit to the Disco last Friday, but have a small problem. I think i ordered the wrong rear springs . Basically, I ordered the +2" off road springs, rather than the +2" HD lift springs, and as a consequence my back end is a little soft :ph34r: and bouncy.......so muc so that with my tool box, trolley jack and a few parts in there, it sits too low. I've spotted these but from what i can make out in there adverts, they are Britpart springs - which i'm not really keen on fitting. My only other option is to go back to the standard HD Blue Bearmach ones that i took off, which are 10mm shorter.

it's not that bad - if you look through a net curtain in the fog from 500 paces........ as for going back to school.....well, skip that one and just buy a saxo and backwards baseball cap and join the maccy d's crew would be a lot better......innit

all valid points, that seem to be common across the country. flashing lights to let someone in (especially if it's a long vehicle) has been around for years - it was never taught in my driving lessons, more passed down by my dad when i first went on the motorway (the day after my test) roundabout etiquette seems to be non existant, no one seems to know that you use the left hand lane approaching a roundabout if you are turning left, or using an exit before 12 o'clock. the number of times i've been cut up/flashed/beeped or had an alternative hand signal for obeying the rules by some idiot in the wrong lane. as for one other point raised about indicating onto a motorway from the slip road, it's supposed to be to let the traffic on the motorway know your (obvious) intentions to join the carriageway. this has probalby been put up somewhere before - but seems rather appropriate for the thread.... A day from the diary of a BMW driver... "The other day I was cruising along as usual coming onto one of my Motorways, which was very busy with inferior cars. First off, I couldn't believe that the volume of traffic DIDN'T slow Down for me AT ALL as I came off the slip road! I had to squeeze into a Barely big enough gap between two cars in order to get onto my motorway! The driver of the car behind me did realise his mistake though and Honked an apology to me with a long blast of his horn. Unbelievably, I had to do the same again before I could get to the BMW Lane. Anyway, once I was in the BMW lane and posing along at 110 mph Enjoying the adulation that the inferior car drivers were giving me, I Noticed an inferior car ahead of me which was not only in the BMW lane Of my motorway, but was driving at a ridiculous 70 mph! Naturally, I got Within a foot or so of his rear bumper and flashed my headlights to Remind him he shouldn't be in the BMW lane of my motorway and to get Out of my way. Of course, once he realised it was a BMW behind him, he did just that, But I could hardly believe it when he pulled straight back out behind Me! He also tried to keep up with me and when he realised I would Out-run him, he put on some blue lights in his front grill and urged me To get onto the hard shoulder so that he could congratulate me on my Excellent car. Needless to say, I was eager to oblige and when we had Stopped, the man gave me a piece of paper confirming what I already Knew - that my car goes fast! Apparently he wants everyone to know what a superior car I have, so I Had to take my driver’s licence to a police station to be sent away to Have some points put on! (They're not free points either - they're £20 Each and I was only allowed 3.) But the man at the police station said That because I drive a BMW, it won't be much longer before I earn the Full 12 points, and then I won't even NEED a driving licence, so they Will take it off me! See, now THAT'S the sort of respect you get when you own and drive a BMW!

anyone ever thought of having some made in nylon? or just bolt some gate style strap hinges on?

looks like a sump washer to me... if it was a filter kit - as supplied by bearmach - then they come with two washers, one copper and one alloy.

i left mine where it was, and ran the top intercooler pipe (the one to the inlet manifold) between the two PAS pipes, holds the reservoir up nicely.

your website was my first port of call for information i've already printed the fitting instructions for the TC and autobox, and have read of the pitfalls of failed oil pumps due to incorrect TC fitting - thanks anyway for the tip, always appreciated

yes, that's normal. it comes on with the ignition, then goes out as you drive off - it's the system doing a self test. if it comes back on then you have a fault.

yes, we have the backplate, 'box and torque converter. so lookslike we will also need; flywheel & ring gear flexplate

Here's a question, the project defender me and a friend are building was originally going to be manual, but due to a change in his circumstances, it is now going to be an auto. So, the question - what parts do we need to source to bolt an auto box to a 300 tdi? we have; Disco 300 tdi engine Disco 300 tdi autobox/transfer box Engine backplate soooo, what else am i going to have to order? cheers

found it (i think) mangels dragons apparently - and they are discontinued if anyone sees any anywhere, let me know - i'd like 4 more if possible....

not picking them up until sunday, so not sure as yet. to me it looks almost compomotive - but not sure

We've just bought a set of wheels for a Landy project, but could do with knowing what style they are Cheers

use a multimeter and check the wiring connection where it goes into the door from the A pillar, it could be a broken wire in there. as you say you can hear clicking from the window ecu, it's more than likely a broken wire. is it just the one window, or both/all?

very true, although most MOT testers wouldn't be aware of that, and only usually look for the separate ones. for the cost, better to be safe than sorry

Does anyone have to hand the dimensions of a defender bulkhead? ie length, width and height, need to know if one will fit in the back of a transit connect cheers