disco_al

the gasket pictured (which was supplied by our Bearmach dealer) was about £5 more than the standard composite fibre gasket, so a small price to pay for the reassurance of having a MLS gasket fitted

i've gone with the bearmach tuffbacks on my 300, and they are pretty good for the money (IIRC about £30 per corner)

i seem to remeber there being an excellent "how not to waxoyl your landrover" thread somewhere too.....

MLS gaskets usually fail as a result of not haveing perfectly smooth/flat surfaces to seal against. they are much less tolerant to imperfections in the block/head face. i have used MLS gaskets in the past (mainly on the 8v Ford DOHC engines, and they are way more reliable than the standard composite ones, so much so that Ford actually superceded the comp. gasket to the MLS one as a result of HG failures on these particular engines.

ok, fair enough...... bit too much orange paint on it though - was it developed with a certain defunked supplier, or did Drizz have a hand in it...

definately looks like a tamiya r/c truck to me. those portals look interesting, why cant someone develop a bolt on adaptor for the landrover axles? looks like it could be a fairly straightforward conversion, take the drive from the cv, through the portal box, which is bolted to where the drive flange would normally go, then bolt the drive flange back on at the bottom of the adaptor......i could be talking complete rubbish with this idea, but would make an interesting bolt on conversion for the financially challenged....

We have ordered a head gasket in for one of our customers to do a 300 tdi. We asked for the elring gasket, which they have sent, but they have also supplied a multi layered steel gasket as well - i didn't even realise they existed for the 300 tdi. Could this be a solution to the head gasket problems some 300's seem to suffer from??? or even a good mod to carry out when changing the gasket for those who want to run higher boost? part number is LVB500220

maybe he forgot to mention that the speedo hasn't worked for the last 15 years

I have just replaced the N/S front ABS sensor on my 300 series Disco, after doing the flash code test and finding that was the culprit. I stripped the hubs down a few months ago to check everything, and the toothed excitor ring was fine, so no problem there. Now, it appears that there is too much movement in the joint, which is knocking the sensor back out, and causing the abs to go off line. Any ideas as to a solution, or what could be causing this are greatly appreciated. The wheel bearings are fine, as are the swivel bearings.

performance one? the spring that sits under the top cover (the one held on with 4 bolts) isn't available separately from landrover. you may potentially get one from a bosch injection specialist though. there is (AFAIK) no performance version available, i expect someone in the past has done the pump tweek, in which case it would need to have the procedure reversed, or if they did it right, there should be a mark to reset the diaphragm to.

that looks horribly unsafe to me, and as for being mot'd in it's current state - how???

ENA100070LOY for the LH & ENA100060LOY for the RH in Dark Granite. here you go should help a bit

My 1994 300 tdi manual does pretty well i reckon on fuel, especially living in the rural areas Decat, egr removed, silicone hoses, safari snorkel, cooper discoverer st's,176k on the clock average weekly mpg is ~28 mpg, usually around 200 miles per week, mainly town driving (daily commute), B roads, and lots of little back roads at the weekend, most of which are 3rd/4th gear, with a fair few hills in 2nd gear for half mile or so - so i'm well happy with that. on our hols to Scotland last year, we managed to get from Aberdeen to home on a single tank of juice (IIRC was about £75 worth @ last Augusts prices) which i thin averaged 37 ish mpg. when i first got it last year i drove it sensibly to cricket st thomas and back and managed 44 mpg :)

i do like the extended sump guard.....

which is all it's good for really.... do you think he got confused between feet and millimetres when he decided on a body lift???

open the bonnet and have a look at the left hand inner wing, by the airbox. if there is a big metal block there with lots of pipes going into it, then yes you have abs.

TBH it's a much better bet to replace both hinges, and completely re-align the door. Recently did my lower hinge as it was fouling on the bumper, within weeks i had to do the top one as well. Door seals much better now, and it doesn't leak Easy enough job for one person, couple of bits of timber, trolley jack and definately remove the spare wheel, makes the job much easier to handle on your own.

it certainly looks like one...... more details needed though...

anyway - it's fitted and wired upto the centre pole on the alternator connections, and my multimeter is showing that it is charging the second battery. reliablity and recommendation were my key factors in purchasing this kit in the first place. i don't do winching, but am planning to run aux lighting and power connectors off the leisure battery fitted on the n/s, so for my useage it's fine. thanks to all for the pointers, most helpful as usual. obviously if you are going to use it for running multiple winches or anything that will cause a high current drain, then something bigger is obviosly going to be better. i know (mainly from the folk on here) that x-eng test their kit to the maximum and beyond, and so they know it's limits - for that i am grateful (as are many others that use their kit), as it is IMHO top quality equipment - and best of all its British engineering.

when i had it fitted on the v8 it didn't cause any issues, although the wiring was a bit easier to spot on that one due to the plug rather than bolted type connections.

might try and attend this one - i've earned some brownie points so far this year with numerous jobs around the house so deserve a day off at a show. will be my first one as well....

Morning all, I finally managed to get the 2nd battery in place over the weekend, and hooked it up to the x-charge relay and ground, so it's ready to receive it's charge and be used for my auxialliaries just a quick question though - which wire on the alternator does it need to attach to? i know it's the sensing wire for the dash warning light, but which wire is it as there are two (from memory) thin wires out the back of mine, one is obviously for the rev counter. on is a bolted connection and one is a spade connection. cheers

kwikfit are hopeless IMHO. we had a customer come in for a battery on his 4.0 cheep jokee, and they had fitted a fiesta one!!! when he got to us it was bulging so badly that it was not far off exploding. they had done a service on it and plastered everything in white grease, even the hose clips. another customer came in for a full exhaust for a fiesta, after being quoted £350 for the system (middle and rear boxes) including fitting, the whole system from us was just over £120 inc the vat!!! they are hopeless, overcharge and overquote for work. i do all my own servicing and repairs, and usually give everything a once over every week or two - if something makes a funny noise, i'm usually underneath it at lunchtime having a look around, i think they call it landrover paranoia.

"damn sardine cans - the keys broken off again"

true - although you can't put a price on personal safety, especially where limbs are concerned (or any other vital body component) a very lucky escape from the sound of it - glad you're ok