disco_al

it's a fairly common problem, i have had the same happen on at least 3 different twin axle flatbeds with the ribbed version. the chain idea gets my vote as most useful, other option would be to drill a hole through both tubes at the base by the clamp and insert a pin to stop it dropping too far. it does seem related to the road surface though.... slightly o/t, but does anyone else think it's a bit weird that it's cheaper to buy a new wheel and tyre than tyre on it's own as well? a friend of mine has got a nice pile of wheels with knackered tyres on now....

Time is exponential when working on a Landrover - 5 mins equals approx. 35 mins, 10 mins usually equals an afternoon

I would ditch the Champion plugs and slap in a set of NGK's. Oxy sensors shouldn't cause a problem on a single point LPG system, unless it uses them to regulate the mixture. Cold weather can cause havoc with LPG too.

May be worth upgrading the brake fluid from Dot 4 to Dot 5 (or maybe 5.1) as it has a higher boiling point, and has probably never been changed in it's life. Other than that, cooling shouldn't be a problem with the Lancaster prop that comes as standard fit, gearbox fluid change to ATF DIII maybe a good idea too.

if you are not concerned about the truck it's coming out of, then cut the front panels open and pull it straight out the front, down isn't really an option unless you remove the front axle first, then unbolt an lif the shell off the top.

I think i've got it, basically a switch with three positions would be best, on for running x-charge as normal, off and momentary on for jump start, so that it isolates the alternator from the starting currents involved. Excellent, cheers all.

there ya go (obtained from a friend at local LR agent in case anyone asks)

was originally going to use a cut off key type isolator switch with more battery cable, but had a crazy "eureka" type moment last nght as i was lay in bed of using a 12v supply to the trigger wire to operate the relay, thus connecting the two batteries.

Wiring should be ok as it's thick battery cable. I'll await Si's response

Did you leave the gasket to settle for a couple of hours? With the BGA gaskets we sell for them, they have an instruction sheet that reads along the lines of ; reassemble, run engine to temp, then leave to cool completely with the bonnet up before retorquing the bolts. We have had one of the new gaskets fail because of this procedure not being followed. (Can't check exact wording, as i would have to split a gasket open) I know of a good 1.8 K series head with valves if you need one....

Right, another electrical question I have an x-charge fitted to the disco, if i run a switched 12v feed to the orange wire (the one that goes to the alternator charge light) can i flick the switch, thus activating the relay, thus giving me a quick self jump start mode? or even just leave it for 5 mins to recharge the starter battery a bit?

All sorted now thanks all - 34mm impact socket and a nice big air wrench did the job

never thought of that....

again, that's how i learnt, followed my dad around from an early age, learning all the time. hence the reason i do nearly all my own maintenance, and it helps with the job as well - it gives the customer confidence when you can give them a useful tip for replacing a part (let alone the related sales it can generate....)

right, have sorted a twin output 40 amp (2x20amp) relay for not a lot from the local auto electrical place so will use that with the 55w bulbs and reduce the wiring complications. cheers for the help Mark

can see the reason for using twice the current loading, however, running 55w bulbs in the lamps it is only going to be pulling 9 ish amps for each feed, so a twin 15amp output relay may be enough. i will see if i can get a higher rated twin output relay.....

yep, it will be 4 lights, but i was going to wire them on 2 switches ie 2 lights per switch and 2 relays. looking at it a bit more, could i use a twin output relay ie 87 & 87b rated at 2 15 amp outputs, i would only need one switch and relay

i would rather use relays to lessen the voltage drop, and ease the loading on the cables. the main question is if i can just use one cable to provide the power to both relay terminals, rather than two cables

When i wire up the lights on the light bar, i plan to use 2 switches and 2 relays (split the load, and wire two pair). I plan to mount the switches and relays in the overhead *cough* storage in the Disco, in the middle, by the interior light. Now, i need to run a fused feed from the aux fusebox in glove comp, to power the relays/switches/lights, rather than have to run approx six wires up the pillar (2 x to feed the relays, 2 x for the switches and 2 x earth wires), can i just use one higher rated fuse at the fuse box, and split the power feed to the relays/switches, thus doing away with 2 x wires straight away, if i then earth through one of the screws holding the binnacle up to the roof, i will only need 2 x wires to the fuse box. In other words - share the power feed for the relays that would normally run to terminals 30 & 85 from one wire, with say a 20 amp fuse, instead of using 2 wires? I have 28/0.30 cable (rated to 17.5 amps approx) and switches rated to 20 amps - my calcs give me a load of about 9.5 amps for 2 x 55w lamps. Does this make sense?

i thought it was just us that had those customers..... the usual is; Customer "I need some brake pads for my car" Advisor "Certainly, what car is it?" Customer "Oh, I think it's a Ford of some sort" Advisor "Do you have the registration number?" (Our system uses reg look up) Customer "Oh, I don't know that, aren't they all the same?" and that's one of the easier ones - the awkward customers are worse than that........especially the ones who think they know better than you......

The trouble these days is that most parts depts employ young lads from school, most of whom are younger than the oldest Disco's. They are trained on the newest software, by the manufacturers, for the newest vehicles - which is where the problem starts. When i was working for a Ford Main agent Parts Dept. all the manufacturer training was done on the newest models, no mention of the older, obsolete cars, and of course how many "kids" joining the trade these days are interested in old models that aren't "cool" anymore (or rather you can't bolt some excessive alloys to them and drive round on a Saturday night with the stereo louder than a bolt of lightning from Thor himself)? Or even know how to change a light bulb? I pride myself on having knowledge of older cars - forget needing to use a laptop to change the oil, if i can't see the floor (engine in most cases these days) when i open the bonnet, then i will not work on it. I prefer to spot leaks early, rather than wait 6 weeks to see it dripping out of the under tray. Anyway back to the topic in hand - modern computer look up systems rely on the manufacturer supplying chassis details to the programmers, in most cases this is how the *cough* parts persons of today are trained "Get the chassis number otherwise you will get it wrong - if no chassis number is available, then give blank stare and tell customer "sorry sir, without your chassis number the computer will not tell me anything"" - which as anyone who has used the MC, without training, knows, is complete rubbish - fill in the blanks and away you go - the only really relevant thing the chassis number provides is a break point for modified/updated parts. I agree though, the old school parts depts are a dying thing - we hold onto all catalogues here, you never know what you may get asked for in this trade (Wheel cylinders for a Triumph Standard 10 last week, before Xmas)

Cat D is a minor thing - nothing to worry about. Backfires are usually caused by an out of tune system, could be worth paying an LPG specialist to look it over.

A frame legallity (sp) has been discussed at great lengths on many forums. They are legal for recovery of a vehicle only, and then short distance work ie to a point of repair, removal to a safe place off highway etc...don't think towing 100 miles up the motorway would be legal though. The AA and RAC both use them for this kind of work, as it quite often saves having to call out a wagon. However, as has already been mentioned, to tow it as a trailer if over 750kgs it needs to have coupled brakes. Not heard anything about ropes, other than they are for emergency use only, as in cannot move it any other way.

300w Inverter, Roof Light bar (present to self ) and two whole days of playing with the Disco - it must have been Xmas!!!

Good point, brain not yet in gear (even at this time of day) It does look better too IMHO