disco_al

i think it's more to do with the pistons melting than the head, plus the weakening effect on the turbo vanes etc caused by the temperatures.

fair point, but you get the idea. old vw beetles etc would have been a better example

So, the powers that be have announce that as of November, pre 1960 cars will be exempt from the annual MOT - as they are so few and far between. Good or bad idea? Personally, I think it's a bit of a bad idea, as the number of Series vehicles out there (as well as other classics, MGB's etc) that require major welding to the chassis etc can now be used without a test. Surely a better idea would have been a new MOT class, so that structure, brakes and lights could be tested, and only charge half the normal fee.

they can still fail on inner wings, especially if it has abs, due to the abs pump. also the brake pipes and the proximity to the master cylinder mounting point. wherever the rust is, it's usually within the 30 cm of something that'll fail the test, better to remove the rusty and replace with good.

check these parts on ebay, closer to you than me..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-rover-discovery-complete-front-end-including-inner-wing-/261027847900?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc678dedc also reaar x-member, sills etc too, perfect for what you are requiring

no probs. been welding for about 3-4 years now - funnily enough for as long as i have owned Disco's actually........that is just the start of my adventures on this one. N/S inner is slightly more rotten, chassis needs changing (already got that) and the rear x-member needs doing too (rotten body mounts)

another thumbs up for Britpart on this one - did the same for me, being sent out 1st class post

personally i'd use the yrm stuff. well priced plus you only need to get the bits you need. iirc the flat section of the inner wings are about 20 quid, and the inners with uprights etc are about 70, plus with the show season starting, they'll be at most of them and may give discounts..... got similar issues on mine http://bigbluedisco.blogspot.co.uk/

mine was waiting for me when i got home from work saturday lunchtime - excellent - cheers everyone

they should be fine. the only difference on 3 and 5 doors is the outer panels, the sills are essentially the same from what i can tell on microcat. you may have issues with the back end of the tray that fits over the sill, may have to trim some off to miss the bodywork

should fit on ok, as iirc 3 and 5 doors use the same plastic sill trim?

i did it the cheap way with mine, sprayed them liberally with white stoneguard from an aerosol. for the price of standard ones, i usually replace them with the shockers

mmm, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RESTORATION-PROJECT-1991-LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-VOGUE-TURBO-D-BLUE-SILVER-/270970827823?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f171eb42f tasteful

if it's as bad underneath, then as has been said, either replace with box section, or get a new x member from yrm with the body mounts on

damn, that's the second time i've drooled on my tablet this week now, god that is a niiiice disco

i know someone who has got 99% of parts for a 200tdi conversion for sale, think he wants £400. engine, flywheel housing, turbo, exhaust conversion pipe, intercooler and some hoses i think.

i thought it was a series when i looked at it, but as it was only a quick look and grab phone from van for pics job, i disn't notice the spring mounts until i'd uploaded the pics

and just in case anyone points it out, it looks like it's an early defender. in the 2nd pic you can just make out the coil spring mount....

I spotted this at a garage i was delivering parts to today. One of 3 (allegedly) that were specially built according to the garage owner yes, you are looking at an A registered Landrover mini digger. It's in fantastic condition too, chassis really clean, and apparently it's for sale too

and some abrasive flap discs for the grinder - less aggressive than a grinding disc, and excellent for removing rust to see how far it goes

have a look through http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=70746 and see what can be done. the welding repairs were done over the august bank holiday weekend. have still got the other side and inner wings to do yet, as well as the rear x-member, but she's coming off the road soon for a chassis swap and some serious rust chasing. with a landrover anything is repairable, you can learn most of the skills yourself, or check your local college for an evening course in welding and you'll never look back.

yes i do remember it, Lorne Greene from Bonanza in the lead role the recent remake was brilliantly done. nice pic too, but rag tag fugitive fleet is a bit harsh, lol

ford's version has been online for ages now, and tbh, it's useless. lr should do what peugeot and citroen do. they have a free online parts lookup with chassis number search called servicebox. dealers get an access code from peugeot or citroen, that allows full acess.

especially after the rain we've had over the last week - would suspect it's un driveable at the moment

according to my exhaust book, the outlet pipe on the middle box is an external diameter of 60mm, so internal (allowing for wall thickness) would be about 57mm. if fitting a slip type joint (ie rear pipe slides over outlet of middle box) then you would need an internal on the flare of 60.5mm. as for the rear box, some people just use a cherry bomb type box in place of the rear box. you say you have a free flow silencer in the middle, is there anyway of adding some internal baffles? could be another option