disco_al

have you bashed your head again???

just want to get all the old grime off my engine (now i've stopped it leaking marking it's territory)

as per title really, what alternatives do people use to the normal gunk type stuff etc?? any home brew concoctions out there?

add some drain slots into it to prevent the build up of wet corrosive gloop?

First, apologies for posting about a Maverick in a primarily LR based forum, but i need some help with my brother's 1994 model. It has just been put back on the road after 2 years being used for shunting trailers around his garden - 2.7 Td, 60k genuine on the clock (he's the 2nd owner) Recently the brake pedal has stopped returning to it's normal rest position. He's thinking it could be the master cylinder, but after some basic research, i'm edging towards a servo related problem. I haven't been to have a closer look as yet (it's cold, wet and horrible at the moment) but have been tasked with the job of sourcing the parts and doing the repair (as he works 18 hour days as a self employed builder) So, oh wise dwellers of the world that is LR4x4, what do you think? Servo or master cylinder?

cut em off and use a sleeve and two u bolts?

have a read of this article http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Tuning_Land_Rover_Tdi_engines_Rev_2.pdf gives a description of what the tuning is, and all 3 stages to get the best. i've done this on both my 300's and the difference is amazing - better mpg, and more power, plus no flat spot (especially if you adjust the diaphragm spring nut as well) bear in mind though, if you've only got a standard intercooler, don't wind the pump all the way up. it's easy to reverse for the mot smoke test too, just make sure you mark the start position of the diaphragm at 12 o'clock before you adjust it

another vote for nightbreakers and relays from me as said avoid the HID cheapo kits (which you now are) mine used to stick on main beam half the time

make sure that both surfaces are clean and flat otherwise it will not seal properly. i've always used a smear of rtv silicone on both sides as well just to be sure and not had any problems

could also be a relay or two playing up - just solved my electric seat/radio problem - accessory relay behind lh kick panel.

jesus - that's got more arse than J-Lo.....

and it also depends on the age of the disco - early ones had a black mfu, later (from mid 96 i think) had a beige one, both located on the back of the fuse box under the steering wheel. there is a self test feature built into them, which is detailed in the rave manual.

sounds like it could be blocked, have you tried some cooling system flush first? or maybe try back flushing it with a hose? it's not a major hassle, dash has to come out, but the heater unit itself can be left in place, very fiddly getting the pipes to reseal afterwards though.

they will fit, but they are carp compared to the standard d1 items - plus the blades are more expensive as they are a specific fitment to those arms - stick with the originals and just upgrade the blades to some aftermarket frameless ones

if you need a loom for the dash, i've got a spare one

um...http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEDFORD-RASCAL-SUZUKI-SJ-4X4-/121047054651?pt=UK_Commercial_Trucks&hash=item1c2ef7793b

as per title really, is there supposed to be a gasket between the turbo and downpipe on a 300tdi?

oooh - a hovver range rover....

Just a quick one chaps (and chapessessss) i'm changing the head on my Disco shortly (got a newer one off my old disco to go on, plus there is a snapped glow plug in the current one) I also need to do the cambelt, for my own peace of mind as it has an unknown history. If i undo the crank bolt, remove the head etc is it a good idea to do the cambelt whilst it's off? Obvioulsy the engine will be easier to turn over to check after, but also i can make sure that the pistons are at TDC much easier as well.

um http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-Coolant-Level-Alarm-12V-/170927068334?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item27cc0c14ae plus one of simon's float switches from earlier

don't know if it would work or not, but years ago i remember a friend having a mk2 escort mexico, and that had two anti roll bars on it. they were clamped together somehow to uprate the stiffness.

best bet if you are considering learning to weld is either find someone who is already proficient, and get them to teach you, or go along to your local tech college and see if they do a night school course. there is a good thread on here somewhere about the best welders to get as well. good luck with your search, and as has been said, look at plenty, check all the areas that are common for rot, and enjoy

if you look at the pic from the rh side, the bonnet is kicked up slightly, and the n/s of the front bumper is pushed back slightly - looks like a low speed frontal impact at some point

i was told (by a fairly reliable source) that when Land Rover were taken over, they wanted to save as much money as possible and so cut back on the quality of the steel and also skimped on the "rust protection" if you do go to look at any late ones (or any 300's for that matter) reach up inside the gap behind the rear mudflap brackets (between the inner rear quarter and outer rear quarters) if it's crunchy then walk away, as those panels hold the seat belt mounts for the rear belts and dickie seats. a better bet for a late one is to try and find a jap import - very little rust to worry about, so can be properly protected before it takes hold - although they do command a bit of a price premium

someone say rust??? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=70746&hl= 97 on appear to suffer with rust more than earlier ones - mine's an R reg, and it's got more rot than my old 94 had