disco_al

easier to follow than the haynes colouring book though, with the proper wire colours and also pictures for the conectors and the locations as well all linked by code numbers

i think the dash is different. that would be the simplest way, replace the whole lump, would also make removing all the airbag wiring easier too, as it'll be simple to get it through the bulkhead. take it out in one piece rather than cutting it, then maybe flog it on ebay to recoup some of the costs of sourcing a non airbag dash. remember that the airbag ecu is under the centre console storage box too, and the crash sensors on the front panel below the battery. you'll also need a non airbag steering wheel too.

or they'll ask where the party is......

.....then refer to Rave for the correct torque settings......

doors & door cards don't match the age, neither does the front rh wing with the snorkel on. it's got a disc rear axle as well (from what i can see) thus the wheels are wrong, and also the steering wheel is wrong for the age. engine is wrong as well, but then it's all bolt to gether stuff anyway, so could be a legit build up of newer parts

if you pm me your email address, i can send you a pdf of the 300 pump tuning instructions - used them myself and they are excellent

heater and indicators are separate circuits. the flasher relay is under the drivers side dash, tucked up by the steering column. not sure about the heater relay on a 200, although the motors are prone to failing

it's possible that you've got an electrical short causing problems. the indicators could be down to the high resistance from the bad connection on the trailer causing the flasher relay to overheat and play up. as for the heater, water can leak in through the scuttle panel under the wipers and end up ingressing the motor, causing problems, in some cases it has run down the wiring and affected the heater relay (under the glove box as well), causing intermittent problems.

according to his location, Sweden, so a bit of a way from here.... as an emergency get you home fix, bend it as straight as possible, and drive slower than normal, just in case, then replace as soon as you can

tbh tablets are going to be the way forward for in car installs now. i've got an acer w500 tab - and it's brilliant. there are some nice mounts available too, one in particular bolts to the seatbelt mount on a goose neck, which tbh is much more secure than the suction cup type i've seen.

certain things cannot be applied to older cars ie airbag systems and cats to name a couple, but otherwise, if it's fitted, it's testable. at the end of it all, the MOT is designed to make sure a vehicle is roadworthy (on the day of the test only) and complies to a minimum set of standards. count yourselves lucky it's not Japan, they have a test every 6 months, and that is tough, hence the large numbers of imported Jap spec cars with low mileage about, it's not uncommon for a car to fail it's test with only 20/30k on the clock over there, and be uneconomical to fix

especially when a pair of good quality chains is only about £40 or so - snow socks are only around the £50 a pair mark......best of luck to him though, lots of inventions started out small and became huge hits remember.............. he might want to change his ebay name though, badboy_borris does give a bit of a bad image (let alone his real name of Torquil???)

you are correct about the coopers - they are the discoverer st - same basic pattern as the bfg at's, and they are really good tyres. had them on my disco last winter, and they were fantastic in the snowy stuff - yet to find out what the bfg's are like.

To all our Northern members, take care out there over the next 24-48 hours in this rather extreme winter storm, gusts have been hitting 130mph in the areas around Fort William - so be careful and don't take any chances

would that be his serpentine belt come adrift........ don't worry, already got hat and on way out now.....

when was the fluid last changed? would be the first point of order - get some new MTF94, flush the old stuff out with a bit of fresh and refill - maybe change it again after 500 miles to make sure it's noce and clean. also worth checking the detent springs (the ones under the gear stick gaitor) that hold the stick between 3rd & 5th, they can sometimes cause gear change issues too

you will need to upgrade to vented calipers if you are going for vented discs, the standard ones won't fit.

If it's deemed OT then i apologise, although to be fair it should only contain LR inspired Xmas gifts...... so to start the ball rolling Maplin have got this http://www.maplin.co.uk/116-r-c-land-rover-defender-3for2-539275 on offer, not bad for 25 quid

found this http://www.cabby-info.com/Files/RelayingTheHeadlights.pdf while searching the interweb - excellent guide

vosa too.....

sounds possibly like it's the rings then. if you've done the valve stem seals, and head gasket that's the only other possibility really - compression test would tell for sure

sounds like the pump to me - common ish td5 problem

pressure pad underneath one wheel linked to either a security light or really loud siren??

Does anyone have a wiring diagram on how to use relays to supply power to the headlights? Aux lights are easy to sort out, but i'm a bit confuddled when it comes to using them for the headlights ie dip/main do they need separate relays, or can i use a changeover relay instead?

yes finding a rot free one for your budget will be fun suffer badly from cracked heads, plus side is parts are fairly easy to get hold of another option would be a vitara lwb, pretty capable and cheap ish to run - find one with the peugeot engine and there good on fuel too