smallfry

That was my first thought, as the switch started to feel a bit graunchy, and progressively stiffer. I took the top and blew it all through with compressed air, then as the switch workings are fairly exposed, used contact cleaner while exercising the switch. This made the switch feel back to normal, but sadly seemed to make it electrically worse. I think some of the gubbins inside is now broken. Annoys me that I think if I had done this sooner, it would have been OK !

I will have a word with a guy who has moved a few things for me, where exactly in France is it ?

My old Telwin MIG welder has decided to the play up. I bought it new in 1984 from my Mums friends, who ran a welding supply company. It was a lot of money relatively back then, and I distinctly remember him saying "it will last a lifetime". I am very annoyed to discover that he lied ! Main problem is that the 8 position rotary selector switch, apparently correctly called a "Rotary Cam Switch" has partially failed, which causes intermittent contact in some positions, and complete failure in others. Sometimes I get wire feed but no welding current, and sometimes vice versa. The whole machine and parts is no longer serviced by Telwin, and even the switch manufacturer has changed ownership and direction, and has no info on the switch. I can see many similar switches online, but they can be configured in a myriad of ways, depending on the application specified. Each segment of the switch (there are six segments on mine) has two cams and two pairs of contacts, and each cam has eight possible positions, so to get something off the shelf that I could adapt is unlikely. Statistically, I have more chance of winning the lottery. What makes it complicated, is that it has an automatic wire feed rate. There is no variable speed control as is normal. There is a bank of resistors and relays/contactors that the wire feed current is switched through, via the rotary switch. It has a min/max switch to alter the feed speed for overhead welding etc, but this never really worked quite right. I just got used to it. I wondered if it is possible to bypass all this and fit a "normal" rheostat instead ? All the components on the board are big old fashioned stuff like you would find in the back of an old CRT TV back in the days of Radio Rentals. Trouble is, even basic electronics like this mystify me. This I think would simplify the whole thing, as then it will just be a matter of sorting out the tappings on the secondary ? transformer. Because I need a machine to use, and I wanted to explore gasless MIG welding, I bought a little Draper inverter machine which is a lot smaller despite its higher output that does both, plus scratch start TIG. Also got a Euro torch and connector. I went for this because although I generally like to spend more on quality tools, financial constraints now dictate otherwise, also, now I am getting on a bit, I dont know if I would get the use out of it ! Anyway, it turned up on Friday afternoon, so I unpacked it all, but the 16 amp plug on, and set it up. Switched it on, and NOTHING. Checked the leads and power feed which was all OK. I then rang the supplier to ask about replacement and if I could take the covers off to chase the fault, not wanting to get into a bunfight over warranty, BUT, they had all gone home. So I took the top off anyway. There is power to both sides of the on/off switch, but that is as far as I can go with it. Overall impression is that it all looks rather flimsy and fragile compared to the old Telwin. There is a lot of tiny components on the circuit boards, which are all unprotected, and I do not feel it would last anything like as long. So yes, I will be able to get a replacement, but should I ? Should I use the opportunity to just get a refund, and fix the old one, which, once fixed, I am sure will see me out ?

Would be a bit of a logistical nightmare, even if you could get someone to do a part load thing, chances are they will not be willing to take it to where it needs to go. I would have thought a trailer would be the best bet, thats if you have something to tow it. There are companies over here who will hire a transporter or a towing vehicle and trailer combo, surely must have the same there ? Failing that, driving it would be easiest. Is it in France or Jersey ?

This is not just confined to JLR. Some years ago when the Audi R8 came out, my ex boss pre ordered one. He got a call to say that it had arrived at the dealer, and as we were in the area that day, we went to have a look. We arrived in the not too tatty van, but looking somewhat scruffy, and went into the showroom. The looks of scorn and hostility were not at all hidden, and we were completely ignored for quite a long time, until my boss went to the coffee machine. Snotty receptionist said to him that it was for customers ......... When he revealed why we were there, it was suddenly like a celebrity had arrived, with much cringing and fawning, hand wringing, and offered chairs etc. Its pathetic.

That's a bit strong ! Absolutely right though.

In an ideal world, it would be good to have someone hold the wrench while you tighten the bolt. Click type wrenches are no good for this really, as they yield a little when they click. Too much tension is more likely to cause failure than too little, as long is there is no slack.

Once a timing belt has been run, it requires less tension. The danger with these belts (on all vehicles) is too much tension. Its always tempting to tighten it just a bit more. They do not stretch, they wear material off minimally, off the teeth and back, not the sides like the 300 Tdi does, thats an alignment problem as we all know. Most vehicles these days have an automatic tensioner, which tensions the belt on fitting, than the retaining bolt can be tightened. I have changed belts that have been quite loose, excessively so sometimes, that have been running like this for some time, so the low figure given would not worry me Too much tension can cause premature failure by fatigue, and also cause bearing wear in components that they drive. You can normally tell if a belt is too tight, as they make a strange thrumming noise.

Couldn't even begin to answer that, but wouldn't the alarm or BCM know its AWOL and throw up a fault ?

This is true of course, and most cars are not in that sort of price bracket. Those who can afford this sort of money will not be overly concerned about the price, but I do wonder how many cars are now bought in the conventional way. Seems to be that the vast majority are leased, which will be the only way most can afford to do it.

I'm sure we can disagree about a few more things than this ! Seriously though, referring to them as a "Jag" is exactly what a spiv or bank robber would do, its a Jaguar, don't you know ! This is what I was told by an old boy back when I was 19, and bought an XJ6 4.2 SWB series 1. This was 1979, and the car was 1972. It cost £750 at seven years old. When I bought it, I was told by all and sundry how unreliable it would be. It wasn't. Nothing ever went wrong with it in the two years I had it. About six months later, I was offered a XJ12 series 1, also 1972, and also SWB (I always thought they looked better) that didn't run properly, for £600. It was on Stromberg carburettors, and the fault was a couple of split diaphragms, which apparently a garage could not find ! Lovely car, but I could not afford to run it @ 10mpg. Both of these were getting rusty though. Ironically, the reliability was one of the reasons I sold it. Nothing to do or work on, so I got bored with it. Also I was developing the Land Rover sickness.............. Later I bought a S type, which was very rusty at 12 years old and an MOT failure because of it. I bought it specifically for the rear axle assy, for a custom project. So you see, I too have a little history with them ! Although I never had another, for me, it all seemed to change and become more modern and characterless after the XJ series 3. I guess I just like old stuff ! I know they have a great following, but what did you mean by owners having a different mindset ? Not DIY I guess ? I have read a lot about modifications to the older stuff, but I thought this was NOT frowned upon these days, like it once was. "Along with the need to refer to models without putting "the" in front of it." This irks me too, same as when you need to see THE doctor. I always make a point of using "The".

Wonder what they will call the new(er) Defender then ? I guess the vast majority of new generation of buyers know not much at all of the heritage and history, and don't care about it. Jaguar = Spivs and bank robbers cars, unreliable, rusty and don't last well ? The marques great days are long over. The Land Rover name, legend, and history will live on though, like all the other great marques that have ceased to be.

Wouldnt bother with running in oil. Smith and Allen for your mineral oil. Direct or via ebay. If you are concerned about the nuts, you could always apply some locking compound.

I had Radar tyres on a Freelander 1 I had a few years ago. They were more road biased, but I dont remember any problems with them, except that they seemed to wear quickly. I don't think they were remoulds or retreads.

Fridge ..... Just out of interest and clarity, assume you mean the GEMS injectors ? Do you know if the green Thor injectors can be fitted to a Hotwire manifold ??

What I have learned. I have had five vehicles fitted with Webasto Thermo Top water heaters. Two were factory fit Freelander 1s, and the other three I have installed used units myself. The main fuel line needs to be 1.5mm ID. I have tried the easily available and cheaper larger bore pipe, but it does not seem to work well, mainly causing the heater to cut out, or making it more difficult to get the fuel through. The pick up dip tube should be minimum 40mm from the bottom of the tank, in order not to pick up sediment or water. Also to prevent inadvertently running out of fuel. I have not had good results teeing into the main vehicle fuel pipe. Replacement non genuine diesel pumps can be a bit hit and miss. I have found, after having problems with the heater starting OK but fuming at lot then cutting out. I have tried them on another heater and it works fine, as did the smoky one when subsequently fitted with another one. I believe that the heaters can be adjusted to suit with the correct equipment. Non genuine glowplugs do not seem to work properly of for long. They also act as a thermocouple, and this can cause the heater to shut down if not working correctly. As to your problem, I dont think a syringe will work, as too much fuel will not burn. As Hurbie has suggested, try drawing fuel from a can or whatever, then try a another replacement pump as it may have some carp stuck it it, then if no joy, try another genuine glowplug. I am not familiar with the Airtop, but I cannot think what else it could be, apart from a very unlikely blocked exhaust.

Your old 3.5 bypass (purple) goes into the back of the water pump, which I think will still work. The old 3.5 heater return goes to the metal pipe that runs underneath the manifold, then is joined by short rubber hose to the back of the water pump, OR a stub on the bottom hose connection, depending on what year. This does not exist on the 4.6 manifold, so you will either have to fix the metal pipe to the 4.6 manifold, or run a hose right through. I assume you are going to use the old style thermostat in the manifold ? I find it hard to believe the seller of the kit does not know how to do this.

Hope this helps.

I really dislike the new dash. Too bulky and just horrid. Not what a Land Rover is all about. IMO the 2.2 and 2.4 engines are carp for the same reasons that Chicken Drumstick has described. Having had 22 land Rovers over 40 years, I would never have one as an only vehicle daily driver. Not because they are particularly unreliable, but because some jobs suffer from mission creep and take a lot longer than expected, and before you know it, the truck has been off the road for a week, or a month, and sometimes years.

Whilst I would agree with Stellaghost regarding a JB weld repair, as I am sure it would work. If it were my own old head I would do it in a heartbeat. However, I also agree with the others that you should not be doing this on a recon/remanufactured item, and it may well invalidate any warranty, so I should approach the supplier first.

Last feedback was a few months ago. You could of course click Buy it now, then do not pay, I'm sure that will prompt a response if there is anyone there.

Also used to be an avid reader, but not bought a copy for years. Chiefly because how many articles on changing brake pads or shock absorbers, or fitting extra lamps does one need to read ? Too many adverts etc, but as already said, the rise of the internet has killed off things like this. However, there IS something a lot nicer in looking at a book or magazine rather than a screen.

What sort of engine is it ? I will ask around here to see if anyone has anything. Unless you decide to go the six pot route !

What about one of those Webasto parking heater pumps ? A cheap one at first to experiment with.

I would try the other side with no shims first, with just the empty swivel. Might save you a trip ! Were there none fitted with the originals you could use ?