smallfry

I do not need to take a wider look, whatever that means, thank you. I am well aware what compromises manufacturers have to make and work to, and demands of different markets etc I am also well aware that tuning has been around from the very inception of the ICE. Progress, innovation, and development for a start, and also what has been done in garages and workshops, by both individuals and companies both large and small, in the fields of motorsport, aviation, boating, and just for the hell of it. I have done enough of it myself over the years on "A" series, Triumph, Rover and Ford V8s, so I do have some idea. Some things work, and some dont. Sometimes culminating in a broken engine. I know of several people personally who have had chip tuning done, which by and large involves ramping up pressures and duration on already highly loaded components, and it has gone wrong for one reason or another. I also know how the suppliers of such things manage to avoid the problems and expense they have caused to an otherwise perfectly fine engine, which more like as not would have lasted for many years, by blaming some other factor. I am also well aware that there are lots of tuned vehicles out there, but I have to say that I have never come across anyone who has been happy with it and had no problems long term. This is why I personally cannot be bothered with it any more. But regarding the vast majority ? You have no more idea than I do. I can only comment on things of which I have direct experience.

Volvo engines do have a reputation for being very strong though.

I had the very same problem with my Telwin a few months ago. I sprayed contact cleaner in , and then the blew it out with compressed air. And repeat. Switch turned nice and easily afterwards. Still didnt work properly though. I took it apart to see what the problem was, and found the cams and spindle had had it. Do NOT take it apart unless you are prepared to buy a new one !

OP is in Italy by the looks of it, but I am sure someone could use it

When I converted a petrol 90 years ago, ISTR just fitting the timer relay to an ignition switched live, and the heavy glowplug cables didect from battery to relay, then relay to glowplug bus cable. I dont think you need to change the switch at all.

That is a very fair comment. I can think of a localish (Rainham Essex) alloy wheel emporium that is exactly like this !

Was done by a professional outfit with posh premises and waiting room. Sudden massive oil consumption and fuel rail and pipes blew. Vehicle had only done about 50k. Not their fault though. Didn't want to know. Needed a new engine. It is not the only vehicle I personally know of that has failed, most likely because of chip tuning and system deletion. I am well aware that manufacturers have to cater for all the colours in all the sizes sort of thing, but as a lot of vehicles seem to sold on power outputs and performance (even vans)I would have thought they would cater for this, depending on where the vehicle is sold. After all, they spent all that time and money cheating emissions !

Be interesting to see how long it lasts. Did my ex bosses VW transporter no favours at all. Sorry to be negative, but I always ask myself why don't the manufacturers do this if its that easy. They spend many millions on development, employing probably the best engineers, and yet someone working from an industrial unit knows more than they do ? Are they going to pay if the engine blows up ? Legal stuff was a disclaimer I guess ?

The more you advance it, the louder the clack clack clack becomes

Ours still hasnt moved ! Probably caused by damp brake fluid. A lot of people change brake fluid as per service schedules, but seldom think about the clutch fluid. Probably worth throwing a genuine Britpart slave cylinder at it as well. Am surprised the friction disc wasn't stuck to the flywheel. I only have to leave one of my vans for a fortnight and it happens. I cannot work out why

Any bearing and seal supplier will be able to help you with that, or a handy box of nitrile O rings ?

I would think it will be fine. I don't think you have increased the coolant volume by any significant amount. If you are concerned, maybe do not fill it quite so much when the system is cold. As long as there is some in there it will be fine IMO I'm sure an educated gentleman with your background will know by how much the coolant will expand when heated !

Been there, done that in an Opel Manta I had back in Eighties. I stupidly took the fan off to wring some extra power from the engine, like you do. Got caught in central London with some friends. It was in the Summer and hot. Had to have the windows down and heater on full blast. It was dragging in the traffic fumes and dust (no pollen filters back then) and was sweaty and most unpleasant. When we eventually got home, it looked like we had gone blackface ! Remember the A30 thing from when I was a kid and we were off to Devon and Cornwall. It was a regular feature of the holiday ISTR. Happy days though !

While you are there, I could do with three swivelling scaffold clamps. I have seen some three sided clip on plastic stuff for ladder rungs and suchlike. Probably too hard though. Probably easiest to get some rubber heater hose and slit it, and fix with super glue or double sided moulding tape.

Exactly what I was thinking. Just post direct experiences, and not reply to others arguing the toss. Let viewers draw their own conclusions.

Your credentials are impeccable Mr Bond Phill. But the circulating water in the heater offers an opportunity for extra, or emergency cooling. You can put the blower on and have all the windows open if necessary. A bit uncomfortable in the height of summer or the Sahara, but sometimes needs must, and all that.

Yes I know. I remembered it was the Ambulance after posting !

Have you checked the reg number on the DVLA website ? Has it got a VIN plate riveted to the brake pedal box ? I guess you didnt do a HPI check ? It might have a stolen, or write off marker on it. I have never been asked for photos, bit unusual.

I bet the footwells are better ........

I doubt it, but once you can get in, on every set I have had, you can disable the code function. However, you will have to have a read of the 750 page multilingual radio manual to confirm this.

3.9 never fitted to 110s AFAIK, Only 3.5s on carbs

I have used this guy a couple of times, not for LR stuff though, but always solved the problem ! https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/dndservicesltd/Radio-Decoding-Services/_i.html?store_cat=3

Jiggle pin and/or hole through the thermostat is a must in any case, also allows proper system filling. Fit hole at the top. The Efi system did not have sufficient bypass flow for the thermostat to react quickly from cold start, but once opened works absolutely fine. The old carb manifold was better in this respect, which is why I believe they went to the later "Thor" setup. As said, it will be your engine condition, radiator, fans, and water pump, which will be the factors in overheating problems, and not the thermostat (unless it has failed) The Turbo D radiator you have is more than you will ever need. However, I do question the wisdom of buying a cheap one, as although not at all glamourous, its a critical component. Even more so given your intended destinations.

If you take off the arch extension it make it a whole lot easier to get the outer wing to bulkhead bolts.

I have always tried to use aluminium Hella plugs and sockets, but they seem increasingly difficult to find. They have a drain facility at the bottom, which a lot of the cheap plastic ones do not seem to have. I also keep mine sprayed regularly. I need to fit a towbar to one of my vans, but I have thought of filling the back of both the plug and socket with potting compound.