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We parked the 90 and went through the majority of the safari route in Walfy's. He wasn't brave enough to go in with the monkeys, so we just laughed at others getting the same treatment as you mention!! I wonder when there will be a Longleat ebay shop for all of the second hand parts that the monkeys collect for them??!!

Notice, however, that no-one actually said that you were right.......we've learnt that it goes to your head and you get all carried away Now, about that tea and toast!!!

Just had to do exactly the same thing after an engine rebuild and a few problems. In my case, rotating the crank anti-clockwise has made it go a lot better. I think I need to do a bit more fine tuning, but I can at least get to 60 now!!! When I turned the crank clockwise, the engine wouldn't start at all...

Yep. The whole thing was riveted in. When it came to line up the floor, all of the holes along the top of the rear crossmember lined up, so I used that as my starting point and made the rest fit... I would recommend the use of an air riveter!!! If you look closely, you will see the rubber strips along the front and rear edges of the floor. These are shaped/moulded and with a bit of silicon sealant, they sealed the floor prefectly. Along the sides I just used silicon sealant again, but this time just between the two metal surfaces. Still no problems with sealing, though, but maybe I used a bit much!!!

OK. That's if you just want a flat piece of metal/board on the roof. Personally, I would prefer something with an upstand to enable proper load support... Off the top of my head..... and based on a full external cage unless noted: Whitbread offer fully fitted and painted for £700 QT Services (truck cab only but they may do specials) £650 plus VAT and carriage Tornado Motorsport from £850 (not sure about VAT and fitting etc...) Performance and Protection (PPCages) £????? give them a ring! North Off Road £????? give them a ring! These prices are for a basic cage mounted to the chassis. All of the websites suggest that you might like to ring to discuss your exact requirements... There are also companies (PPCages springs to mind) who will sell you pre-bent components and you can fill in the gaps with any specific elements that you want to make. HTH Adrian

Hi there Trapper... Luckily the body supports were mainly intact along the sides - the problem was the metal that they were attached to!! The rear body mounts were completely shot, though. There is another post of mine in here about replacing the rear floor and crossmember. To be honest, once you get into it, you'll find that you just make up pieces to fit where you need them and weld them on. I was lucky to have the help of Mark, who is a much more experienced fabricator than I am. I wouldn't have attempted it without someone who knew what they were doing as I can't weld and am quite novice at making stuff. My talent lies with the spanners (although some may doubt that, too!!!). The box section was not polished, just quite fresh and we rubbed it down with a flap disc before coating it with weldable primer. The weldable primer was aded to try to stop the unaccessible bits rotting straight away. Probably not much help, but the thought was there... Good luck with yours...

Sparg - I see exactly what you mean, but I doubt that many companies would advertise it as a standard product. As has been said above, you need to start talking to the companies about your specific requirements and guage the prices from there. There is no point comparing the prices for standard cages as yours won't be a standard one.... Several of the websites I've looked at have said that they make specials, it's just how much you want to spend and what you've already got. For example, if you've already got a rack, there's no point paying loads extra on the cage, but you might like the cage fited with some brackets to take your existing rack. That solution might cost you, say, £100 extra, whereas the complete solution you are suggesting might add £500 with all of the extra material, fabrication and labour..... The other point of view is this: Why have all that weight on your roof (cage as roofrack) when you don't need it? Just bolt the rack on when it's needed and keep the cage as simple and lightweight as possible for the remainder of the time....

Proof that if you push hard enough, it really does come out the other end.........

You also need to think about the availability of significant parts. A relatively in-depth conversation with Turner Engineering revealed that TD5 heads are just as hard to come by as 200TDi ones. 300 parts are more widely available and slightly cheaper, too. For ease of maintenance, I would chose 300TDi, even though the TD5 I have (Discovery) has never seen a garage for anything other than keeping up the service history. However, the TD5 does benefit from a computer interface that allows you to (almost) pinpoint a problem, rather than earlier engines that required almost a trial and error fixing process. The only way to ensure reliability of the engine is to get one that you know the history of (often this means a new or recon one) so that you can be sure how it has been treated and how regularly it has been serviced.

It looks like a lot of money, but by the time you've bought all of the material and mucked a few bits up, you won't be far off if you also factor in the labour and disposable materials... As I said, not that I've been thinking about this side of things!!

No!! Just the bodywork... Like here: North Off Road Link Their full website is http://www.northoffroad.co.uk Other cage manufacturers include: Whitbread QT Performance and Protection Tornado Motorsport Most of their websites are simply their name followed by .co.uk I think. Not that I've been looking lately or anything!!! HTH some more... Adrian

North Off Road offer a solution to the wing protection, but it's a replacement for the whole front end and mounts back to the cage at the bulkhead - not sure if that is what you are after... Most places that make roll cages will make it with brackets for your preferred roof rack, just a case of asking and paying the appropriate amount of extra money... HTH Adrian

Rob, From looking at your picture, it seems that you are going to have to do a lot more than just sticking a patch over it... The side support that the floor sits on is non existant. Bear in mind that the floor offers a lot of rigidity to the back end of the car... Depending on what you use it for, it's a bit shaky to leave it as it is. If it's used off road, all you need is a log to get caught up and the whole floor will tear out... In my case it was a waffle board, but the same principal. If you rivet an Ali floor in, it definitely becomes a non-structural element in MoT terms... At the same time as doing the floor, we had to replace the rear body crossmember, the floor supports and large sections of the inner wing on the drivers side. Not something I am keen to do again, but it's all do-able with some time, some sheet metal and a brother that can weld (fairly ) well... We also replaced the sills, drivers footwell floor and the bottom of most of the door pillars... It's amazing how far the rust mites spread. I'm not trying to put you off, but it might be better to deal with the whole problem now, rather than wait till it gets a lot worse... Out of interest, my RR was a 1992 K reg. We replaced the rusted floor and crossmember with items taken from an A reg RR... Not saying that Land Rover cheapened the construction, or anything...

I will be there with a couple of others. Sellers entry from 7am (£20 for a 4x4, £25 for a 4x4+trailer) and public entry from 11am (think its £5, under 14s free)... Sellers pass admits 2 people with up to 2 additional passengers for £5 each. I think sellers need to pre-book, but not really sure. I've booked in a 4x4 and am gradually cobbling together enough stuff to put a stall out... Might even have to take and pay extra for a trailer...

I was doing exactly the same, Dan!! My thread... The symptoms you are describing were one of a few problems I had. I changed the oil and filter and the problem seemed to go away, but I didn't really get the chance to test it by going for a long run or parking at silly angles again!! HTH Adrian

I have a TDS on the 90 and it is very good. Before that, however, I had an EP9 on the Range Rover and it pulled it anywhere quite happily (sometimes not very quickly in difficult circumstances, but it never stopped pulling!!) I would recommend both (still have both) and would also recommend David Bowyer as a source for either... As Rhys says, show offers are the best ones to get.

Personally, out of principle, I would dangle the keys in front of the dealer and wait for them to repair it. Then argue that it is a significant fault and the full cost should be bourne by them. However, if you are fairly handy with the spanners and you have a replacement gearbox, you could have it replaced in a day, or a weekend with a few essential tea breaks!!

To be honest, I bought mine as basic as I could find with a couple of added comforts. It's an S spec, plus climate control and a 6CD changer. There is less to go wrong that way!! I've had no trouble with it. It's an 02 car with 50k on the clock (16k when I bought it 3 years old) and has never put a foot wrong. The only things I have had to do are normal service items. Others haven't faired so well, though, I expect. There are all kinds of nasty stories about them, but we are enthusiasts, so this doesn't put us off!! They are cheap as chips now, too!! I had mine valued as a part exchange at the weekend (out of interest) - £3700 is what they offered me. Less than a year ago, the same garage offered me £6200......

Here are a couple of clickies: Number 1 Number 2 Hope they are of some use...

There was a thread not so long ago about this... Best option is to try the search facility first. You may find that using Google is a bit easier, but make sure you prefix your search wording with LR4x4... In the mean time, I'll have a quick look... Edit cos I'm rude and forgot to say Hi and welcome!! HTH Adrian

Nice work Rob! Would you be kind enough to take a couple more pictures of your front wings - especially the front corner... Not that I would ever dream of doing anything like it, but it does look like a very tidy little solution you've come up with!! TIA Adrian

I use (too regularly) the RAC roadside and recovery. My card says 'SOLUTION 1' on it. It used to be solution 2 (home start included) but I figured that, as it's a toy, if it doesn't start at home, I won't go playing and will spend the playtime fixing whatever is wrong. I have also just upgraded it to a joint policy with the wife covered too, and added European cover, and the grand total was about £180 for a year IIRC. Service has been fast and reliable, apart from one small c#ck-up (they turned up with 2 blokes in a 3-seater lorry to recover 1 car and 2 passengers......cue debabte about who gets left behind. They soon got the idea that it wasn't going to be one of us, so the second RAC guy sat and ate his lunch and waited to be picked up!!) RAC are a bigger organisation than the AA... it shows in the speed of service. Having tried the AA (2 long waits of over 4 hours to be recovered) and Green Flag (Just a bad experience!!), I will be renewing my RAC membership when it comes up next year! HTH Adrian

Just coming up to 17000 miles on mine and no real signs of wear. Good tyre that helped sort out the wandering nature of the Disco 2 on the British roads. Road noise is slightly increased, but you won't really notice unless you are on a concrete road with the windows down... Never had any problems with grip in the wet or dry on the road. They also proved quite good on a wet summer trip to Seven Sisters in Wales. We didn't do anything spectacular, but they provided a very good level of grip on grass, mud and loose rock/shale. The one thing I did notice was a drop in MPG. Lost about 30 miles from a full tank, but I can live with that. It certainly wouldn't stop me buying more when this set wear out. HTH Adrian

Aw, com on guys!!! You know the government won't let that happen!! They're just after the motorists that have to drive to work to pay for things that have to be transported!!!!!!! And...while we are paying for the things to be transported, the government are subsidising b#ms that can't be bothered to work with our taxes, rather than improving the roads and general public transport systems!!! Grrrrrrrrr!!