Orange

The thickness of the head gasket is shown by the number of holes in a tab on the fuel pump side of the head. The holes are actually in the head gasket itself and are located somewhere around the lift pump. They might be quite hard to spot if your engine is oily and dirty like mine was... My engine was 'chuffing' through the oil filler cap and dipstick tube (over pressurising the crank) and I put it down to knackered piston rings after dismantling everything else. It wasn't using (burning) oil in the same sense as yours, so I would not suspect the rings in your case (unless it's chuffing out of the oil filler and dipstick). Mine disposed of about 4 litres of oil between Devon and Kent!! Ralph's idea of a pressure test is probably the fastest way to diagnose the problem...

So I wasn't far off with my 180 degrees, then..........albeit at the wrong end of the engine!!!

Kind of go hand in hand for you, don't they??? If your experience has been anything like mine was, it's very easy to nudge a sprocket off-mark when trying to get the belt on... I had to walk away for a cup of tea after several attempts!!! Have you lined up the flywheel groove with the wading plug hole in the flywheel housing? I'm not entirely sure it's possible, but could you be 180deg out???

Mark - remember the Brownchurch one that we looked at when at Billing in 2007??? That was quite a neat solution, but didn't have sides. Might be worth a look as I am sure you could come up with a set of mounts to fix it to the gutters... Found it!!!

I think the W is for a rev counter.......can't be sure, though. I was looking for info on this just the other day. If you have a look in the Tech Archive, there are several threads about alternators and I think one explains all the wiring...

The probable reason for the extortionate price is the proximity of one fold to the other. It needs quite a nice bit of kit to be able to do it without wrecking one fold as you do the other - if you get me... The way we solved this on my Range Rover was to get a 90deg fold on one piece with a tail the length of the step required, then weld the flat piece to it to create the step. Quite long winded, but by far a cheaper solution. It didn't even take too long to do it once it was tacked in place.

Pete, When you look at the front of the engine, the crank shaft is at the bottom and the cam shaft is above and left - right of the fuel pump sprocket. There is a seal behind the sprocket (same arrangement as the crank seal) which is located in the timing chest. Might be a bit of a b#gger to get out with the timing chest attached to the block. ETC5064 is the LR part number.... Item number 4 on page 25 of the Bearmach Parts Catalogue Download HTH Adrian

On your first point..... Did you completely remove the timing chest from the block? If you did, there is another seal on the end of the cam shaft that will need looking at. I've just had to take mine all apart again after having exactly the same problem!! Mine lost about a litre of oil through the cam and crank seals!! On the second point.... I've never seen a 200TDi that doesn't have oil in the inlet manifold, but I've only looked inside 4 of them...

The picture was taken after a day of altering the oil cooler position and fitting the bumper and winch, so I hadn't got round to it. They came off shortly after! The RR has gone now, unfortunately, but I had to make a bid for almost affordable playing!!! Got a 200 TDi 90 now, so am able to play a lot more often.......if it's not broken!!! I do miss the V8 auto, though!!

Another vote for Southdown bumper......... Nice and snug and with a bit of modification you can have some excellent recovery points!! I hung a full length Range Rover off of this and it didn't even flinch!! I've heard good things about Dave at Southdown. If you don't ask, you will never know......

Thanks Fridge. I suppose I knew it really, but just wanted to check!! I guess it has always done it, then!! I just never noticed before!! Been a bit over-observant since changing the engine just to make sure everything is OK. I know I had earth problems with the starter, so was wondering if I have a general earth problem across the vehicle....

My record of successful solo electrical installations runs to about 2 at the moment, so I thought I'd better check a few things before getting the cutters and tape out... All queries relate to a 200TDi Defender (Defender engine!!)... 1) I'm upgarding the alternator to a 100 amp jobbie. Which wiring do I need to upgrade? Is it just the link between the alternator and starter motor, or do I need to go all the way back to the battery? 2) I have an earth problem which means that the instrument panel lights come on when I put my foot on the brakes. Can anyone tell me the location of the earth point for all of the dash lights and brake light switch? Does this seem like the likely problem, or am I looking in the wrong place? Any advice appreciated... TIA Adrian

A longer breaker bar and a strong knee....... That's how I managed mine when it was sat on blocks. Otherwise, you can use a jolting technique with short sharp attempts at undoing them. Don't be tempted to use a rattle gun on them......

The back end of the D2 is longer than a D1, so my guess would be no. You would end up with the drop plate hanging down way short of the rear bumper. Having said that, the mounting points all appear to be the same, so you could make some longer stays and get away with it.

There's a pdf download on bleeding an ABS system in the Tech Archive........ HERE Hope it helps...

Well it was either them, or the Mach 5/BFGMud combo that's on Chokie, but I thought 35s might be pushing it slightly

Different PCD as far as I know, otherwise I'd have thrown the Insa Turbos on the D2 for the Seven Sisters event!!!

Bring some jerry cans up!! Dib-dib-dobbing from tomorrow, so not about to laugh at you getting angry with spanners!!!

Morrisons is only £1.26 per litre for normal diesel up here! Hang on a few days and the other supermarkets will be at the same price, then the others will have to follow. Oil has dropped by approximately 20p per barrel at the moment, so there may be good news coming.....

I must admit that the one I bought recently seems a little flimsy, but I have yet to try it out in the sticky stuff. Will wait and see, but I've kept the original one just in case..........question is, do I need to carry it as a spare???!!!

I would firstly suggest the Wanted section, but as you are quite a distance from most members on here, I would further suggest a look for local suppliers in your area. Most Tyre stockists have a source for wheels. Short of that, you'll need to find a breakers, or someone selling the steel rims off of their D2 commercial. HTH Adrian

A standard duty CV will suffice. I think they are GKN. Bearmach stock GKN ones. Can't remember what the price is... Depending on their condition, this is the type of job that you may like to consider replacing swivel/hub oil seals and wheel bearings while you've got it all apart....

Not sure on the seal thickness. Again, I've only come across 1 type. I bought them for a Range Rover and they got used on a Discovery by my brother in an hour of need. The replacement Discovery ones he bought me got used on my Defender....... Maybe try ringing a Main Dealer and asking for the part numbers... Or, drop Ralph (u/name Western) a PM on here. He's the part number guru. There may be a difference between 10 and 24 sline axles, but I don't think there is... The number and thickness of shim/shims will depend on the swivel pre-load when you put it all back together. Memory tells me (but I don't rely on it so you should check) that the preload should be between 8 and 10kg when it's ll back together. You'll need a spring balance to set it properly. Personally, I would order all the bits you need from a LR dealer or Bearmach and add a few shims into the package, too. That way, you will get decent stuff. I've heard good things about Island 4x4, but have never used them so don't know what quality parts they supply. I would also use EP90 instead of the 1-shot grease. That's just personal preference, but it's a lot cleaner WHEN you have to take it all apart again!! For bits like this, the Haynes manual is quite useful and gives you all of the torque settings to use as not everything has to be done up F tight!! HTH Adrian

£100 per axle £100 alloy wheels £5-600 engine, loom and ancillaries, possibly more £??? any interior parts that aren't trashed... You might get some useful bits, but how long would you be willing to store stuff for?? That "rainy day" you are thinking of might never come... Not sure I'd want the hassle of getting involved in what is going to be an insurance write-off, either. Others have done it and come out with a heavy pocket to show, though. Offer £300 as a starting point......

If there are 4 of you interested, why not ask the guy directly if he'll run a short course, say 2 evenings a week for 8 weeks, for just the 4 of you?? Just a thought...