Orange

Geek!!

I'm with KGM through a broker called Academy Insurance Services. Pay just over £250 for a year fully comp with loads of mods. That is for both of my 90s, so £500 per year at the moment, but one is off soon. No limit to modifications and up to 500 miles per year. They were also good when I had my Range Rover...

It would need certain other things as well, but I'm not going to say the 3-letter abreviation that has been referred to above...

Ah, I see. It's the depth of the tray that won't let you put it in... Just out of interest, Lawrence, why not modify the tray/mounting? Surely it will cost you less than £350 and you then have common winches front and rear so if one breaks... Otherwise, the TDS - I bought one of the early 9.5s. Just keeps pulling and pulling. Bought it cos the 12 wasn't available when I was in the market. Someone will correct me, I'm sure, but I think the difference between the 9.5 and 12 is the gearing, so the 12 will be slower.

AFAIK it's a trayback Disco......... No floor for it to poke through, unless Lawrence left the floor in....

What's the reason it won't fit?? Surely if it means modding the frame/tube a bit, the second 8274 will be cheaper as you've already got it...

A slightly different area, but still with seat boxes - are the battery recesses under the passenger seat different?? My 200 has a deeper recess in the bottom, whereas my 300 is flat... Is this normal?? Or has mine ben replaced/repaired at some point??

Mine were saturated in oil after a small engine mishap, so I binned them with no negative effect so far...

Do you really want to see pictures of Walfy trying to squeeze into a tight gap???

Steady on!! The eagle is in flight........you'll know when it's in the nest before I do, I expect!!!

Which word, Walfy - space, or work - not a lot of either when you are around!!!

On the battery front - take it out, clean the terminals and put it on charge for a couple of days - preferably a high charge for an hour-or-so, then a trickle charge for the remainder. That should give enough power to run the stereo.

Fuse should be fitted as close to the battery as possible. The head unit may well have a fuse in it, but that means there is nothing to protect the wire from the battery to the unit - it could all become a horrible melted mess if things were to go wrong... Don't ask how I know!! Have a look at VWP: Vehicle Wiring Products website An in-line Glass Cartridge Fuse Holder is all I use on mine - same fuse rating as the one in the back of my head unit. VWP will also open the world of alternatives to scotchloks!! HTH Adrian

It might sound silly, but is the battery well charged?? I had a similar problem with a new Sony head unit and it turned out that my split-charge wasn't charging the auxillary battery that the stereo was is wired to... On the wire connector front, try using bullet crimp terminals or crimp butt connectors - do a search on google and you'll get a load of different suppliers listed...

Althought not a Discovery, we replaced the rear crossmember on my old Range Rover. The write-up... Bear in mind that the work was done at the same time as the rear floor and arches so it looks like more work, but it'll give you an idea of all the annoying places that LR decided to put spot-welds... Believe me, there will be 2 or 3 that you don't spot and will be a real pain to get to!! Not an exact science as you can probably tell. Most of the work was done by judgement, but the tailgate fitted better after we'd done this!! There are, of course, ways of making sure the body doesn't move by adding tacked supports, but we decided that we'd chance it without and it all went swimmingly well. Hope that's of some help... Adrian

VOSA will be the people who make the final decision, so they might as well be your starting point. IMO, take the vehicle to your local inspection centre and discuss the idea with the people that will be doing the final inspection. You are in a position where you can take the vehicle and point at what you are going to do and with the aid of a program like Photo Shop, you could even show them what the finished item might look like... Sounds like, as Fridge says, a re-body job, so you should be OK. This is just my opinion - I am not a VOSA inspector!

Agree with Boggie! Anything wider than 255 will need the already large turning circle increased, or the arches widening and bigger offset wheels. Mine runs quite happily on it's General Grabber AT2s - 255/55R18.

In theory, yes, but you will have to make sure that you can support the whole lot from the forks, which may be the issue... It will also take a bit of wiggling to get around everything on the way out. For the sake of 10 (I think) nuts/bolts around the bell housing, it's definitely be easier to separate them.

Getting to and logging onto the forum isn't an issue, but then I start trying to read posts and reply to stuff......getting very tedious now!! Just taken approx. 4 minutes to send a PM - not including the time it took to load up the 'compose new message' page!!

Shall we form an orderly queue?? Nice work fellas!

Dare I say Audi All-road, or Volvo Cross Country?? Spec will be good, space is not an issue and can be quite cheaply converted to gas...

Me too! Smear of blue hylomar in my case. No leaks so far.... It is a bit of a bu##er to get off when you have to do it 3 times, though!!!

It negates the need to fit longer/extended bump stops and hence gives you more compression travel (the wheel will go further into the wheelarch)................I think!!!

Or you could give Porny a shout on here as he runs a tuning company. IRB Developments He might even give a forum discount if you ask nicely...

That assumes that you are going home, Ralph. When, for example, you are at a 2 day event (like JST's this weekend) it becomes a bit more of an issue, though...