Orange

I can't promise that this will solve the problem completely - bear in mind that if those bushes are like that, it may be worth checking the others that other people have mentioned. You should notice a very big difference, though. Glad it helped...

What you need to think about is the liability - from their perspective. If you* rang up a dealer and they told you* the fuel pump was knackered, you* then go and spend lots of money on a new fuel pump and the problem persists. You* then ask them what else it could be and they tell you* it's something else that costs lots of money.... the problem still persists. You* could end up spending a lot of money chasing a fault that £50 could have pointed you* straight to. You* then start blaming the dealership and threaten legal action because the fault could have been repaired for £100 when you* have spent £1000 chasing it because of advise that they gave you*... From a dealer's perspective, it's best to keep quiet and recommend that the car be plugged into the correct diagnostic computer and the fault code read and the problem solved directly. It's a potential damage limitation exercise - they may lose a customer, but they don't get hit with a big claim based on a possible over-the-phone diagnosis of what could be quite a complex problem... * you being a general customer, not YOU specifically!!

It may seem like a stupid question, but do we have to enter the whole series, or will there be places available at each event for those just wanting to do a few?? Maybe this is a question for Challenger, but thought I'd ask here first...

This was my Range Rover one - it now resides on a Disco, though, as it has the same fittings. Was/is a Southdown bumper with modifications to the recovery points and a strengthening piece along the back edge of the winch tray...

Trailing arm to chassis bushes is my bet. Had it on a Range Rover - anything over 50 and it felt like the back end was trying to steer. Even worse on heavily rutted roads. Bushes didn't look worn at all, but with the new ones on, it was like driving a different vehicle... Bit of a pig to do, but made easier with a second pair of hands to get everything lined back up for reassembly.

Depends... I have always found tall narrow tyres better in the snow than wide ones. They seem to cut through rather than spin around on the top. The behaviour of an MT is much the same in snow as it is in sludgy mud in my experience. They tend to clog up and be a pain to keep clear, therefore it feels like you are driving on slicks until you generate enough wheel speed for them to self clean - which in turn means you are probably not going to have the control that you require... If it's slushy, they'll be fine - just like driving on wet roads, as you say, but if it's proper crisp snow, be wary. I had a nice little 'experience' in my works car park a couple of years ago - ended up drift-parking next to the boss's M3.... I was grinning - he wasn't!!!

Who got the picture from behind the Disco?? Is it really waving it's reas N/S wheel in the air or is the inside of the tyre up on a rock??

ARB one is very useful and very easy to use. Available from ebay, Gigglepin or Devon No experience of the Staun ones, but they look like they might be quite vulnerable...

Both... Have a look on the forum front page and each section is listed with it's moderators underneath... Alternatively, you can look HERE and (once it's been updated) you'll be able to see who they all are... WALFY - I'm sure you know that already, more for those that don't

Congrats all! And thanks too, to the other moderators that have had to put yet more time and effort into sorting it all out...

PS.... Rhys, you can use images in PMs as you would in a post, but you can't just attach them AFAIK. They have to be hosted somewhere...

Further to this, have you tried getting the tape measure out and finding out what you need?? If you are going to go to the effort of putting arches on, you might as well put some on that cover the complete tread width of the tyre (I think this is the rule). There is no point in looking at 5 different varieties of +50mm arches when you need +75mm........ Or am I looking at this with a little too much logic?????

Do I presume correctly that if the t/box already has the lock, but no linkage, the only thing you need is the linkage? But, if you don't have either, you need the lock, the linkage and the wiring loom from a later model....?? Sorry if this seems like a dim question, but I can't work out what the wiring loom would be needed for as I thought all models had TC as standard - I could be wrong on that, though - so no additional wiring would be needed.....

Can only help with point 3... My solution would be to give a good coat of undercoat and then a couple of coats of smooth hammerite (rubbing down between coats). I've had powdercoated bits on my Range Rover and they are a pain to touch up once scratched/chipped. By using hammerite, the worst you'll have to do is rub down the whole tube and give it another coat. HTH Adrian

Halfords, Demon Tweeks, Ripspeed to name but a few who would keep various styles for various models of car... Quick tap into Google reveals a whole load more.... Clicky search...

Chech the snorlke around the mounting points up the windscreen. If it's been knocked, it may be split here. Also worth running along all of the joins and taking them apart and redoing them with new jubilee clips. I'd recommend proper metal jubilee clips, rather than the palstic type that just clip together...

That North Off Road solution looks very tidy. I wonder if they might start making a standard (earlier model) winch crossmember??

If it's the actual pedal that's making the noise, it could be the brake light switch/sensor - try sticking your head into the footwell and look at the top of the pedal when you move it around. IIRC there is a brake light switch (push to break) on the drivers side of the pedal assemble. When you brake, the plunger comes out of the switch and makes the connection to turn the brake lights on. This switch may be loose, on its way out or maybe it's just noisey. My RRC used to make a little whoosh noise, then a click and then the brakes would really work. At slow speeds they could be quite aggressive if not used with care!

You also now know that will come apart easily!!! AR#E!!!

WRT the tramlining on 18" wheels.....fit some General Grabber AT2s in 255/55R18 and you'll greatly improve it! It certainly did mine... The 18" wheels will give a bit of a harsher ride due to there being less air cushion around them (overall rolling radius of the wheel/tyre combo should be the same whether 16 or 18"wheels are fitted) but they do look better as the arches are huge and look empty with 16s in!! You have to remember that the Discovery is a glorified agricultural vehicle so will be a little harsh, but you'll soon get used to it.

A trailing arm Poly-bush metal insert is exactly the right size. Alternatively, I have used the socket/extension with sparky tape previously...

All it takes is a VOSA inspector at the side of the road pulling in random vehicles (of course they wouldn't target any specific vehicle groups when doing this... ) and you can watch all of your hard work and hard earned get put in a crusher. They don't charge you to watch!!! Of course there are all sorts of arguments that you've told the insurer about it, but at the end of the day, the V5 will still say it's a Range rover......and it's not, therefore all of your tax, MoT and Insurance become invalid. I value my driving licence......... but feel free to take your choice.

Have a reead of this thread: The Definitive Bobtail SVA thread by Bishbosh Might give you an idea as to real world experiences... Amateur build is probably the way to go, but you need to start with an empty space and give picture diary of just about every build stage. Bit of a PITA...

Is it just me that ends up dealing with the office numpty, then?? I seem to spend hours on the phone to them every time I'm due for renewal and they never show the slightest knowledge of what I'm talking about! They certainly don't want my business going by the quotes they give me! (No, hair colour isn't a tick-box!!!) I've also had a bad experience with them in the past. They are allegedly a Land Rover Specialist, but don't quite understand that you want your pride and joy (shiny one) repaired by a Land Rover Approved bodyshop when it's only 3 years and less than 18,000 miles old........Won't be using or recommending them again!!

IIRC Les Brock got through an SVA. Not entirely sure what was involved, but I think there is a thread in the Members Vehicles Section. Short of that, drop him a PM and have a chat. HTH Adrian