mickeyw

I have used chain wrenches and strap wrenches in the past and binned them all. The first LR I worked on with a spin on canister was a 2.5 TD. There is so little room to move a wrench, the strap stretched too much and I ran out of space, the chain wrench just chewed the filter up - big mess. My favoured tool became a Sykes Pickavant tool bought in Halfords, it's similar to the Screwfix item mentioned above and has never failed to move a filter, without wrecking it in the process. Having said this I have never need a wrench for a V8 filter due to it being so easily accesible to both hands. Michael

Hi, I have had this arrangement in use for a few years now. The gas struts were rescued from a friend's garage and of unknown origin, but have an 'eye' at each end. I decided a top mounting position would be less vulnerable to damage. It is more than able to hold the door and wheel open on a moderate side slope although the struts are getting a bit tired now. One slight downside I have found is that when parked in Tescos it's tricky stopping the door hitting the car that parked too close behind! But they shouldn't park so close. Anyway the photos might give you some ideas. Cheers Michael

Hi AllyV8, I totally agree with your line of thought. It was the standard of workmanship I saw at 3 different LPG installers that lead me to the DIY route, I wouldn't have let any of them near my motors. Since then I have converted my V8 Ninety, a friend's V8 hybrid, another friend's RRC, a 3.9 Disco and most recently my own RRC. All have worked without problems. I am an engineer (not mechanic) by profession and have high standards and low opinions of shoddy work. Some insurers talk about 'certificates of installation', others ask if the installer was CORGI registered! I can hardly see how a domestic gas installer would know about autogas installations or COP11, never mind automotive electrics. OK don't shoot me down, I expect someone on the forum has all these qualifications and does know what they're up to. Hmmm, very tempting to inspect it myself and write a certificate and put my engineering qualifications at the bottom! However without access to COP11 I wouldn't know if I conformed or not. Unfortunately as I don't do LPG conversions for a living, going on a course is rather a pricey option. Michael

Hi Steve, Thanks for your great work with this little gem of a program. Worked first time for me I have been using http://byethost.com for some while now, they seem quite reliable (doh! just cursed that). They are also a free host and have the PHP etc. as Mad mentioned above. I also registered a domain name and redirected it to the host. Used to be with clubhostcity until they disappeared, so I can sympathise with your hosting troubles. Michael

David, Thanks for this pointer. It's been a while since I had a serious look but I didn't find that forum before. Anyhow it's kinda turned up some useful info for me. I found topic containing this link to a guide to COP11

Hi, I am looking for a copy of the LPGA COP 11 regulations. A couple of years ago I DIY converted my RRC to LPG. Now as far as I'm concerned I am very particular about my standards of construction and I am happy that the installation is safe. However, my insurance company at the time were not concerned with seeing an inspection certificate so I never got it checked. I have since fallen out with that company and my current insurer wants an inspection. I would like to know what the regs are so I can decide if I conform to them before wasting money on a checkup only to find it needs a load of things improved. This is the same as I would check and repair a vehicle before taking it for an MOT. Unfortunately trawling the internet has not produced a free copy of the COP 11, so if anyone has a copy and wouldn't mind 'sharing' it I would be very happy, and it would be another opportunity to escape to the garage to play this weekend. Obviously if something is not safe I would prefer to know and have the chance to correct it myself first. Cheers Michael

I had some similar symptoms a while back on a 300tdi Defender 90. It turned out to be the swivel preloads at fault. Jacked the front of the vehicle up just enough for the wheels to clear the ground, then slid a shovel blade under the tyre and levered up against the wheel. There was noticeable up-down movement, and not from the wheel bearing (already checked that). Problem was solved by taking a thick shim out from under the top swivel pin to re-establish the correct preload. Result - a totally transformed drive, at all speeds. It took us weeks to figure this out, but didn't have LR4X4 to refer to at the time Michael

Hi Simon My 3.9 was suffering from slow coolant loss and occassional misfires. It was also pressurising the header tank, but not as bad as yours sounds. A quick look at the plugs showed no. 7 to be rather rusty, I cleaned the plug up and misfire gone, for about a week. I assumed a head gasket leak and asked around and eventually came across K-Seal. I cleaned all the plugs up, tipped a bottle in, followed the instructions and took it for a test drive up the road. The misfire was chronic! Out with the plugs again, No.7 was covered in a layer of very hard deposit. I replaced that plug with a spare one, and lo and behold, no misfire, and 10k miles later everything is still rosy. How long this will last for and what the side affects may be is anyone's guess, but for know I'm happy knowing that I saved myself the hassle of pulling the heads of. I later decided this deposit on the plug was the K-Seal compound that had leaked into the cylinder for a short time before sealing the gasket leak. The stuff is heat activated and claims to make a glass hard seal. Based on my experience I would recommend K-Seal. What its limitations are I have no idea. Be good to hear of someone else's experinences too. Good luck Michael

I'll be watching developments here. I have carp MPG on gas from my RRC 3.9 too, it only manages double figures on a good day It uses no oil and is otherwise in good health. It's a 1990 model, pre cat, so the only lambda sensor is the one for the LPG system. Uses a Bigas vaporiser, I know they're not the best, but that's what it's got. System is a couple of years old, fitted by myself, and was returning as high as 15MPG once. Is there a way to check coolant temp sensors without going the replacement route? Same Q for airflow meter, and what goes wriong with them? Thanks in anticipation of a flood of useful answers. Michael

I seem to recall CP Components do a 'wading kit' for the OMVL vapourisers they sell. I would think this can only be a means of extending the diagphragm air vent to somewhere dry, I simply fitted a tin shield next to the air vent to ward off any splashes. As for the other electric bits n bobs, just mount them in as high and dry a position as possible. In my own experience I have had bow waves wash over the bonnet briefly without any coughing V8 noises. Interesting to read about the lambda probes not liking a dunking, mine is a universal type made by Intermotor, it seems to still work OK but I have never had good economy from the system to start with. I believe this is more to do with a V8 sized boots. Cheers Michael

UK insurers generally want a bit more than a Corgi inspection. I had my self fit system checked over by an LPGA approved business and a approval certificate issued for very cheap. I have to say I wouldn't have wanted him to install the system for me having seen the quality of his work but he had the right qualifications to write the ticket! I too insure with the NFU who were no trouble at all. They don't seem to mind winches, bullbars etc as long as you tell them what you have. As far as they're concerned it's a Landrover, and that's a working vehicle and therefore must need whatever you chose to bolt on to it. Refreshingly liberal minded of them. Me like a lot. Cheers Michael

Never mind letting them know about this thread, I think I would be asking for a refund! 'Unmerchantable quality' springs to mind. Please excuse my ignorance if this would be a waste of time. I don't do a lot of welding but when I do I manage a damn site better than than with my el cheapo SIP welder. What an utter disgrace! I seem to recall someone on this forum wanting to set up a engineering & fabrication company a few weeks ago. Decent chassis parts, there's something to start with. Michael

Mmmm those water pump bolts look pretty nasty. I am assuming you have tried lots of WD40 or similar and persistant use of mole grips on the broken bolt. You could try a bit of heat too. If this doesn't work I would drill a small hole into the centre of the bolt so you can use a screw extractor tool, (rather like a left handed thread tap). I expect the rad will have top come out for that . I hope you have screwed the new bolts in with plenty if copper grease around them to prevent future corrosion. Don't fancy struggling like that again. Michael

I have a mate who runs 235/86x16 BFG MTs on 7x16" modulars on his 90. Every time we go out he ends up pushing the tyre off the sealing bead (this is without airing them down) and lo and behold, another flat tyre full of mud. I can only think this is down to the rim being too wide for the tyre. I'm suggested he tried tubes inside to stop the air loss, but I believe that practice is frowned up, anyone comment? I run 265/75x16s of the same make and tread on the same size rims and have never had a problem with air loss. I love these tyres, excellent mileage (30k so far and still fine in the mud), and at 265 width have superb grip on the tarmac, both our 90s are daily drives so this kind off thing matters. On the wheel choice issue I prefer modulars to Discovery steels as the offset is greater, allowing much more steering lock. We both have standard height suspension and have no rubbing problems whatsoever, as long as the steering lock stops are adjusted correctly. Cheers Michael

I only have good things to say about Polybushes. I used to chew up a set of std bushes in less than a year. I've had blues at the chassis end and reds at the axle ends for over 5 years now and still nothing wrong with them. Having never changed them i can't comment how easily they'll come apart. Michael

I have a Holox bluetooth and a USB gps receiver (can't remember make) , neither of them will talk to more than one device at a time.

Hi Jim, Do you know anyone with a TIG welder? My engineering approach to this would be to clean up the nose of the shaft and delicately build up the edges of the keyway with weld. I appreciate this not the easiest place to get a welder to, but I reckon with the rad out of the way it could be done without removing the engine. I'm not too familiar with the tdi but maybe the front cover would need to come off too. I suggest welding it little at a time to avoid getting too much heat into the local area and melting any seals or affecting the structure of the crank. Then any excess weld would need dressing off perhaps with a Dremmel or similar, ensuring the new woodruff key is a good fit. This will take a bit of time and patience! Take care not to send grinding grit into the important parts of the engine, cover or mask areas as necessary. Then with a new front pulley you should have effected a durable repair. Just make sure the bolt/nut holding the pulley on has plenty of threadlock on it when it all goes back together. I hope this sounds more encouraging than scary. Michael

Just found rave CDs at Green-Oval.com. 609 MB, hmmm let's go put the kettle on might even have time to get to the newsagents and back

I agree about the plough bit, but as Steve said he's not going off roading yet. Anyway I only meant bolt on a tow ball, not a drop plate as well. The ball on it's own won't cause a problem. My setup is a DB adjustable jobbie on a removable setup rather like scrapiron sell, only I made mine long before they did, and it's loads stronger [read heavier].

Probably the cheapest and easiest recovery point I have used is a standard 50mm tow ball bolted in its normal place on the x member. All real Landrovers should have a tow ball. Can be found for around a fiver in most motor factors, most people I know seem to have enough of them just lying around to use as door stops. If you decide to ever use it for off road recovery make sure there's a decent spreader plate behind the x member. Michael

What the stupid plastic filter thing you refer to Jules? Is it a breather, and where abouts on the engine? The oil appears to have come from around the dipstick area and obliterated the entire engine bay. It took 5 litres of blood to get the stick back to the correct level. My guess is there's a breather somewhere that's got clogged and it's blown the stick up. A bit hard to find such things without yanking of all the plastic carp covering the engine. Time to look for Freebie manual online, anyone know of any? Cheers Michael

Hi, I'm off going to have a look at a friends 2003 Freelander td4 as soon as I finish work. Apparently since getting to work this morning it's dumped a mass of oil of the floor, seemingly from the engine, this was verified by checking dipstick which shows low oil level. I'm told the stick is pushed all the way home and the oil filler cap is secure but it looks like the oil has come from somewhere near the filler though. Has anyone heard of this before and what component could have given up to cause this degree of sudden oil loss? Cheers Michael

I have used a Disco lecky sunroof switch for my internal winch control. It's the same as the window switch only it doesn't have the window decal on it. This is as SMO says a mom/off/mom switch. For a dashboard isolator I have used the isolator switch for Disco rear lecky windows. I also have the original Warn remote that plugs into a socket in the wing top, and two waterproof push buttons in the rad panel for use when putting the cable away. These are all isolated from inside as well as having a battery isolator for the winch. Wish I had some piccies of my home made TD5 style dash to put on here.

Hi K9Unit I have been using Fugawi for a few years now, initially on a laptop, which is fine if you have a passenger. More recently I have run it on an in-car computer with a dash mounted 8" touch screen. OK this is rather indulgent I know, but it makes it so easy to solo navigate off road. Fugawi only comes in 1:50,000 scale but you don't really need any greater detail for driving. You can buy just the maps you need for your area, the UK is split into 4 disks, available separately. For on road navigation I use MS AutoRoute 2006, not as good as tomtom but I've yet to find a version of that for a PC.

I've done the Capel one every year as a buyer and done well and know several others who have done well too. It's a small event so far and needs building up. It's down to all of us to turn out and help it grow. There's no other similar events in the area that I know of to find those project building parts, so let's see a few more faces at the next one, think it's usually the 1st weekend in June.