mickeyw

Can someone explain why my 300w Ring branded inverter won't power my laptop (Dell Latitude D410)? I just get the whistling noise as TSD mentions. Cheers Michael

You're spot on Fridge. I bought a stainless system for my V8 90 some 14 years ago from Double S. Lifetime guarantee they said, well as long as I own the vehicle anyway! After about 10 years the flanges on the centre box, and the pipes each side of it, had crumbled away. How long do they think people keep Landrovers? I called Double S to see if I could get some replacement flanges to weld onto the old pipes as they were fine. They offered to replace the parts concerned FOC, as long as I sent them the old pipes back to inspect first. What a pain to have to remove the whole system, I wanted to weld new parts on in-situ. Never mind the hassle of being left with no exhaust for a week! As luck would have it a friend was passing through Devon a short while later and offered to pop in to them. He ended up speaking to the MD who was incredibly helpful and send him away with all the new flanges I needed. His discussions while there revealed that they use mild steel flanges on their stainless pipes and silencers! What a surprise BTW Landowner my system looked a fair bit worse than your pictures. How old is your system? Wonder if it was made by the same company... Michael

Wuntenn, if you're only looking for something for occasional small jobs, I have a 150 Amp hobby grade MIG unit that could be available for not much £. I have just bought a semi-pro 180 Amp, so the little one is largely redundant now. It will weld chassis thickness quite OK but needs a rest if doing long runs. Where abouts in the country are you? I'm just a stone's throw from Gatwick. Michael

The easiest route would be a 3.9, they're more available than 3.5s these days. If you're lucky enough to find a 4.2, that would be nice . As for the gearbox, it will be easier to use one that stated life behind a V8, it will have the correct bell housing and input shaft sizes/lengths. Also if it is a Defender version that'll save work too as the selectors are not the same. There were factory built V8s with LT77, but only as a 3.5 I think. It might not like the oomph of a bigger engine. Choices are LT77, LT85 or R380. It is possible to change the selectors on a R380 and LT77 from Discovery to Defender type. I have not done this but I'm told it's not too tricky to do. The LT85 was only fitted to Defenders. Hope this helps Michael Doh! Got beaten to it!

Mine have pilot lights, they take a 5w wedge base bulb. I added a wire to the sidelight supply so they come on together. Fuses have been OK so far. The effect is much the same as having 'dim-dip' headlights. I had to cut a small scollop out of the metal headlight retaining disc that goes behind, (the one the spring attaches to) to clear the pilot light bulb holder.

I think the angel eye ones don't look right on a Defender. I have the crystal type, clear plastic lens and faceted plastic reflector, no more rusty lights. I picked them up on eBay for around £30 the pair, they're not E marked but have been through two MOTs now without any comment. They came with these nasty blue tinted bulbs. I have to say the light output was carp, especially on wet nights. I swapped back to my old Phillips high brightness but normal colour ones, much better. Michael

I have to disagree here. My factory V8 90 had 7.50 Rangemasters when I got it (1.19 t/box + LT85), not at all gutless, was seen doing 90mph between petrol stops once (wind behind etc), but not nice to drive at that speed. Changed tyres to 265s and still plenty of go. Now I have a 3.9 under there there's LOTS of go Should mention that as far as I was aware, mine was a 134bhp engine (built 1986) Rough cruising speed in 5th - 50mph = 2000rpm. Hope this helps. Michael

I've found it slow too, it was just after 1 o'clock lunchtime so thought it might have been rush hour. Michael

Hi Lansalot, I think the 'olive' you show in the photo is in fact part of the downpipe, it's welded on. I have been through a similar experience, trying to get a replacement part to weld on was next to impossible. In the end I got lucky with a visit to Double S Exhausts, the bloke there was most helpful. They're in Cullompton, Devon; bit of a way from you! Good luck, Michael

Not entirely sure, but it's in 4 figures I will ask at work. Michael

Hi Rob, I know SPI used to supply the doors, skins and interior trim panels. I also heard a whisper that SPI aren't around any more. Can anyone confirm? Michael

I am a Solidworks 2008 user now and find it a joy to use, having migrated from Autodesk's Mechanical Desktop 2004 just a couple of years ago. SW is definitely the way ahead for many types of product design, and seems to be gaining popularity all the time. For the benefit of those wondering what to learn and are looking for jobs - A few years ago while unemployed I thought I had better learn some new CAD skills, having only used rather antiquated 2D CAD and toolmaking specific 3D software. It wasn't hard to find a hooky copy of Autocad, so I bought a book and started learning. What I also found was that Solidworks would give a free 6 month license to unemployed bods like me. This would enable us to learn the software while looking for a job, and improve our prospects at the same time. I'm afraid I don't know if they still do this, if they do it would be a good way to get a feel for SW. I never got as far as taking up their offer, I found a job first. Hope this is of some use, and sorry for the rambling. Michael

Once you've successfully sound proofed your workshop, your neighbours will still know when you're welding if they watch any telly. Michael

Says they're zinc plated steel, not ali. Michael

I too have been down the bearing only route. It's not difficult to remove the old item at all. The bearings normally cost me between £5 and £8 depending on supplier, much better than the £120 I was quoted for genuine parts. Make sure you get the bearings with rubber seals, normally denoted by '2RS' at the end of the part code. These generally last me 2-3 years with numerous muddy dunkings. Michael

Well, before reading this thread I had never heard of the Beadbreaker, but having looked at the website I thought 'Hmmm, that looks good, me like. I could make one of those myself.' Then I took in the price and realised I couldn't be a**ed to make one. Then I caught 'must have one' fever. It turned up today very shiny and red, and rather well made. I have a few tyres to swap this weekend so I'll soon know if it's any good. I think it must weigh more than the tyre pliers but if it's any easier to use it'll take it's place on board the Ninety. Michael

If modern cars have plastic inlet manifolds there can't be too much of a temperature handling issue. Slight problem with LPG backfires blowing them apart though . Ally needs to get much hotter before it melts. Moulding plastic is far cheaper than casting ally in material and tooling costs, not to mention lighter weight. It can be made with greater precision with regard to achieving equal flow distances as well as having a far smoother internal surface than a casting, so giving improved flow without extra finishing costs. As you are planning a 4x4 application I think the weight saving issue can be thrown right out of the window for starters. If you are good with the TIG set I think stainless would look lurvely, well it will until you get the truck dirty, and be nice and strong. Just make sure the weld is smooth on the inside. Let's see some pictures once you've made it. Michael

I will vouch for the Tire Pliers, very easy to use and not too pricey. They will fit wheels from 11" to 16" rim. I bought mine several years ago at Billing and have used them lots. Think the supplier was Terrain Masters or something like that. I used to use the hi-lift method, it's not as easy as the pliers and if the tyre is wet or muddy, it can slip. I have first hand experience of what a hi-lift handle can do to one's face, I don't fancy that much pain again. Fortunately this did not happen changing a tyre. Also the foot of a hi-lift puts a lot of pressure on the structural side wall of the tyre in a way the tyre is not designed to be subjected to, this cannot be a good thing. Michael

I seem to remember Janspeed doing a twin turbo conversion for the V8, but I guess you're thinking more towards a diesel application. I once rode in a very early 127" V8 Hi-Cap with twin turbos. It belonged to a marquee high company that used it to pull big trailers, full setup had air brakes too.

Grrr can't figure how to do a topic link that works. Help somebody....

Doh! Try linking again. Defender rear door stay

Or you could try either one of these methods. Mine's the top-of-the-door version, very effective and less prone to damage so far. Defender rear door stay Michael

Hi Nige I bought a set of Britpart waterproof covers for the Ninety a couple of year ago. They are a very tough but comfy fabric and fit the seats really well, oh and they are very waterproof too. I have fabric seats and leaky door seals, if we have a heavy downpoor the fabric is always dry underneath the covers. Judging by recent comments these must be one of the better items Britpart supply. IIRC they were only about £35 for the front set of 3, much cheaper than new seats or even seat covers

I had Pro-Comps on the rear of my Ninety about 3 years ago. They were too soft right from the start, really bouncy, and quite scary if towing heavy stuff. After a year or so I took them off, no sign of any gas left in either of them. I only went Pro-Comp 'cos i couldn't afford new de Carbons at the time. I had snapped the bottom off one of them after 5 years abuse and needed new shocks PDQ. Now back to de-Carbons for excellent ride and handling. No experience of Rough Country stuff though, so I can't knock them. Michael

I have a good rear axle casing from a Ninety. It has drum brakes attached to the ends. I assume yours has discs, not sure if your ends will bolt straight on. Free to a good home if you want it, otherwise it's getting binned. I'm on Surrey/Sussex border, not sure how the forum relay malarky works, or maybe you travel this direction anyway. Michael