OilIT

Been faffing with mine this weekend - have adjusted the box this morning and its a lot better - still not perfect but I think I have had a combination of problems - only a couple of areas left to go! The way I found the steering box needed adjustment (may not be the right way - somebody can correct me here ) was when I parked on full lock - then checked that there was a lot of play on wheel and steering shaft but no movement at wheels of track rods (I couldnt find play at wheels centre forward)

yep - its the joint (the one with the rubber thingy) - but which part number for a 1998 model - Ive found three different ones ! Microcat = QLG100000 John Craddocks =QLC100080 Paddocks = QME500031 anyone know which is the right one? (Im inclined of course to go with the microcat - except neither craddocks or paddocks seem to recognise the part number...

I would only change the cv joint if it needs changing (joint or splines worn) ! - but make sure you check the oil seal landing on the stub axle - I just did mine and one of them was way beyond useability. I am not sure you can still get the chrome swivels - I thought the teflon ones had replaced them - I am sure somebody who knows authoritaively will correct me if im wrong.

thanks guys - guess i'll go back to the garage !!

Just double checked the wheel bearings and endfloat after doing the swivels - but all ok, but I am still getting some kick back through the steering when I go over a few poor surfaces on our delightfully tarmaced roads at say 50mph and it seems a bit 'light' at speed. Based upon findings elsewhere here it seems to point to steering joints or panhard bushes (?) The upper joint 'seems' to have a tiny bit of play in it when I check it in situ with somebody rocking the steering - should there be any at all? Thanks

re cleaning, warm water with soda crystals does a great job of cleaning the interior and headlining.

was it a morgan chassis then?

The strange thing about this story is that when I used to work at a sparyshop (a long time ago !!) if the paint wasnt a perfect match - they used to spray the car with a hosepipe just before collection - on the premise they had just washed off the dust. Apparently a wet car makes i tharder to see paint match problems - whereas your saying it looked poor when wet and better when dry ! I would make sure you get it back to the condition you had pre accident - and accept nothing less if NFU and the garage dont help - try ABI (dont know what they would do - but Im sure NFU will make it right before you need to do that!)

i cut up a disco chassis and body and a series II chassis with a small angle grinder and disks from LIDL - they were cheap as chips - loaded it on the trailer and way to go. Problem with acetylene at home is that your apparently supposed to notify your home buildings insurance company - and sometimes they get a bit funny about it.

i might go to this - i'll see what the general feeling is closer to the time...

I was at a tool (machine) shop last week - and they were complaining that their suppliers had whacked the price up of oils. (And my home heating oil bill has ney on trebled in the past 5 years - so I wouldnt be surprised if it has gone up !)

My sIIa has taken me about 5 years thats been about 2 years of work and 3 years of coffee breaks Seriously though, the biggest issue with this type of project is that of how far do you go (I ended up rebuilding everything - engine, gearbox, tx box, axles etc etc) on the basis of 'whilst it off I'll just check....'! If you plan to go and just swop everything over - just make sure you have plenty of those boxes of nuts, bolts, and washers - as I found it was easier to replace with new. Oh and good luck !

WOW - the biker looking chap was the guy I was talking about - he was really helpful and behaved as if he wanted your business. Wonder why they have done this - maybe the previous guys ran it into the ground to the point where its not viable? Island 4x4 it is then !

island 4x4 i have found offer really fast delivery - but as you say once it leaves the suppliers premises your in the hands of the gods!! Mind you, I have avoided bearmach in swindon for the last couple of years as the guys who took over from stewart and adam were not the best in terms of wanting your business, but I went in the other day - under duress and the new guy was the most helpful and customer freindly I have seen in there for 2 years ! I might even go back in tomorrow ! It all goes to show that its the attitiude of the pople you deal with that makes the difference - both if things all go well, and if things go wrong.

As stated ^^^ but just to clarify - its on the drivers side front chassi leg (stick your head between front of wheel and wing and have a wire brush handy ! In my experience - when i transferred a plate off of a series 2 it was inpsected at a dvla station as part of a random check - and they didnt even bother looking at the chassis number - all they looked at was the plate with the chassis number in the cab!

You could go for removing the bulkhead behind the front seats and put one of the bulkhead brace bars in to replace it...

if you call lr or the supplying dealer they will often tell you if you have the vin number etc. - assuming its not been resprayed !

have you got the metal strip which goes across the leading edge of the floor (I know its on all csw & vans) not sure if its used on truck cabs - but that is metal and could be causing it - as ^^^need pictures really

I too spent ages looking at this - I was looking at second hand snap ons on eblag, machine mart stuff but ended up with Teng - as Halfords were doing a clearance sale on them about 2 years ago - and I have to say whilst that was a major factor - the quality is superb and came with foam inserts, roller drawers, and drawer edge marker tapes so you could mark each drawer if your absent minded to forget where you put stuff.......

the other option is the double sided tape which glaziers use for fixing sealed units into wooden frames. Your local glass shop will use it - and it works a treat - I did my back door with it and it looks good.

GKN model (TDJ000010) = GBP96 + vat for gkn IIRC, they do a tdj000010r which is much cheaper but isnt britpart. Was there yesterday and bought one !

ok - one new stub axle, and cv joint later and I now have a leak free front end In case anybody is interested, the stub axle bearing can be put in without the special tool, and the thrust washer is a press fit ....oops better go back to the drivers side then ! Still got a bit of play though - guess it must be the steering damper and/or one of the steering joints...

browse the image you have burnt to cd, and youll see crack instructions

i used unleaded last time i did it - needless to say also did same procedure as western before fitting it back !!

Did my pass side swivel this weekend - or at least as much as I could ! Last weekend the drivers side had no race left in the top swivel bearing...but have swopped all the bits and it seems ok This week was the passengers side - All ok until I pull the stub axle and half shaft/cv joint - no bearing or oil seal left on the inbound side of the stub axle, and the 'landing' on the cv joint looks like somebody has been at it with a lathe tool - good old royal mail maintenance !!! So the question is: How easy is it to put the needle bearing into the back of the stub axle - the manual states a special tool is needed - will the normal workshop tools of clamps/vices etc do it or not? Also, there is a brass thrust ring which on the drivers side was a slide fit, whereas on this side its stuck solid - so which is it meant to be slide or solid? Just wonder how much cr** has ended up in my diff as there wasnt a lot left in my swivels..... thanks for any guidance