Phil Hancock

If you refurb the 2a box get the layshaft crack tested as they fatigue and fall in 2, i have seen many do this and had it happen to mine in the 109, it has now been replaced with a S3 box.

The thin flange and floating front shaft does not guarantee a 24 spline diff in an axle. I bought a pair of what were supposedly 300Tdi disco axles, the rear had been used in a 90 for a short while so the 4 bolt flange in place of the rotaflex 3 bolt was expected. I found out when i pulled a rear shaft that it was 10 spline. Also there were no anti roll bar mountings. Checking the serial numbers in the parts book showed that they were late 200tdi disco, the change to 24 spline shafts/diffs according to the parts book corresponds with the start of 300Tdi production. The late 200 CV joints are supposed to be stronger than the 300 CV joints. But quite a few late 200 owners claim they have 24 spline diffs or is it that they have 24 spline at the front flanges and assume the rest is also.

If thats on a series 3 it means its a recon of an A suffix case with D innards using a special reverse idler with a bronze bush in place of a roller bearing and the thinner A reverse shaft.

I did see in a parts book IIRC that the dowelless rear bearing carrier was loctite fit.

The wife refueled our 200 disco with petrol once. She realised when she went to pay, so a tow home behind the 86" and a drain down and the drainings were used mixed 50/50 with new petrol in the 86". It was a bit smokey when cold but was brill once warmed up.

Later D boxes have the bolts holding the reverse gate to the selector fork end are horizontal, all the earlier are vertical.

I think that at 1970 you will have the bellhousing crossmember that clears a S3 slave cylinder, if not just trim the gussets to clear. The 2a gearstick will fit fine, its what mine still has. The clutch hydraulics will need replacing all bar the master cylinder with S3 parts. Oh also the S3 clutch cover is different to a S2a diaphragm cover.

I adjust the sleeve by sitting the casting on top of the vise jaws and tapping the sleeve in whichever direction it needs to go towards the vise. Hoping that tightening the bolt will do it results in the OP's findings.

1980 on i would guess.

Numbers 1 to 4 followed by the epoxy paint stuff.

I think you will find that the windscreen bolts are actually 5/16"UNF and the door check bracket bolts are 1/4"UNF.

Cold chisel and a big hammer.

We had a series 2a brought in once as it was pulling severely to one side under braking, when the wheel was removed from the non working side there was a nice cast iron ring around the brake shoes and a cast iron disk attached to the hub.

Thank you Diff much obliged, i rest my case that there is no gasket on a TD. IIRC my 14J has a gasket but is a doubling plate sump like a 2.25. The sumps can be identified by which has a gasket and which has sealer very easily. The gasket type sumps have spot welded doubling plates for the retaining bolts to bear on. The sealant sumps have a raised rib along the middle of the joint line and around the retaining bolt holes.

On a Salisbury it would be stripped splines in a drive flange.

When i worked at Chas Watts i spent probably 75% minimum of my time on a vertical borer.

Fine carry, on but the parts book does not list a gasket or show one on the detail parts page. To show that the pictures alone cant be trusted over the parts list, look at a 1 ton salisbury series 3 front axle case pic, the pic shows a salisbury all right but for a 1 tonne which has integral swivels and spring over suspension!

That is a generic picture plate, the actual gaskets needed are shown in the detail page. P130 for the various parts shows no gasket. So which do you believe, a generic picture or the actual parts listing?

So yet another link to a non genuine parts list that shows a gasket, THE GENUINE PARTS BOOK LISTS NO GASKET FOR THE TD, i know which i believe as an unreinforced sump flange(no doubling plates) will distort like hell with a gasket in there.

The genuine landrover parts book shows no gasket for a TD and the link above is not a genuine parts book.

A 2.5 timing chain set will fit but the oil way in the block will need unplugging to supply the chain tensioner. Fitting 2.5 crank, rods and pistons in a 2.25 block wont work as the 2.5 block has no oil jets for the pistons and using 2.25 rods wont work either as the oil squirts on the 2.25 rods is insuficient and the pistons will nip up in the bores. I found that out the hard way. The skew gear will need changing for the 2.25d item

Wrong, the chambers are a larger outside diameter on the 2.5's plus the location peg is in a different position.

Remove the little inspection plate in the top of the gearbox bellhousing and you will see if its a 9" coil spring type or a 9.5" diaphragm type with center boss.

How come the 7th pic in the OP is a different diff to the busted one, it does not have lock tabs on the crownwheel bolts, which are also UNF bolts, and you can see the planetary cross shaft is still in place when looking thro the halfshaft hole.

Been there, seen it and done it, its sitting in my 88" and it has helical gears in place of a timing chain. Compared to the 14J in my 109" i prefer the governor characteristics of the hybrid lump as a DPA pump(2.25) is a constant speed governor and a DPS pump(2.5) is a constant power governor.