Ibex94

From memory, I'm sure I used to be able to cruise at an indicated 80 - 85 without trouble which corrected would have been slightly higher. Can't remember where he used to run out of steam wasn't much more.

Hello mate, I'm surprised that you can't get any preload without any shim, the design is such that you should always need shims. How did you push the seats back in? I would expect the swivel to take a significant load without deforming due to the high dynamic loads they take in service. Preload is the initial axial load applied to an assembly to ensure that it maintains its design position under all design load conditions. So without adequate preload in the swivel assembly when you turn in hard hit a bump or both together the wheel hub will move in relation to the axle which will accelerate wear in the bearings and reduce the effectiveness of the seal. Doesn't help handling much but then its a Land Rover. I've just rebuilt my front axle and had no trouble achieving preload I am aware that the shims after a few years in service can look like part of the hub assembly. Another thought what have you used as a gasket behind the lower pin? if thats too thick it will loose all shim adjustment at the top. I recon the preload is the root of your problem - gap at top as shown in photo suggests to me that the hub is sitting high ie lower pin too far out of engagement. Sort your preload and the seal will come to you. Rob

Fitted a grease nipple to the base plate when I did mine, means you can properly lube the joint after fitting and through life. Rob

Did you replace the outer bearing seats, them being worn or mating with a different inner assy could throw the bottom offest all out. The swivel hub isn't connected to the axle breather so won't relieve pressure build up - inner swivel hub seal forms a seal with the drive shaft. Just looking at your photo of your installed seal it apears to me that seal isn't fully inserted at the top / the retainer plate is deformed. is there any carp stopping it sitting in properly. I know its a ballacher but I wouldn't cut that seal to replace it. It becomes the weak point in the sealing of swivel hub where water can find its way in, compounded by what was a warm axle entering cold water when wading drawing water in as the swivel is cooled. Good luck - I sense your frustration. Rob

Hi Ryan, The seals are a dense foam rubber and from memory fit into a chanel formed in the upper side panel, mine were stuck in with a contact adhesive from memory. Given they are rubber mine came out cleanly just leaving traces of the old adhesive which shouldn't matter too much if you lob it back with a suitable sealant. I'd take the upper hinge off the rear door then unbolt the side panels from the tub and lift the roof and side panels to create clearance, I would think there's enough flex between roof and screen to get you a couple of inches . If your vehicle is a 90 then I've got the seals in the garage. The lower ones are - MUC1333 come in a straight length ~1.75m long (2off) Also got the upper ones they're - MUC1006 - MUC1007 All are genuine L/R in original rapping. Let me know if you're interested. Regards Rob

I bought a tub of of the 10mm male nuts, let me know how many you want and I'll see what I've got left. Rob

Just fitted one myself, talk to steve at Crown Diffs www.crowndiffs.co.uk Hes prepared to spend time talking to you and he has a really good section on his site explaining how to set bearing preload in a manner that is understandable and feasible to most. Rob

Thanks Western

Hi all, Can anyone confirm that 19J and 200Tdi turbo chargers were the same component? Many thanks. Rob

Just done all the knitting myself and have still to prove it. There are three main connectors which plug into the TD5 unit which you need to correctly connect to the existing loom, probably not too bad thinking back I went for gold and added the centre dash switches as well. Ever had that feeling halfway through a job..... the one where you wish you hadn't started. TD5 circuit diagram extremely good however earlier ones far less helpful. Photocopy several copies and mark up between the two. Any additional help drop me an email got photos somewhere. Rob

Just done the same thing myself, although having bought from reputable breaker found drive form rust to the half shaft at front, wheel bearing grease having got wet caused rusting of the outer bearing, then found that the inner swivel hub oil/grease had failed and spread greaseinto the diff casing which is a real arse to clean out. So I would recommend a cursory inspection to satisfy yourself on condition of lubricants and take dust caps of front hubs to make sure they're not full of rust. Decide from there how far you then want to go.

If the axles are servicable leave well aloan, if you still want to settle your mind drop the oils out into a clean container and see if any shiny bits drop out then stick your finger in and see what you can feel, drop the swivel oil also and you should then be satisfied that there is no significant degradation of the oily bits and you've replaced with fresh oil. I would expect the oil to come out looking much as it went in unless its emulsified. Having just obtained a front axle from a reputable breakers and found the drive form rusted to the shaft and the inner swivel seal failed spreading grease into the diff casing its taken me much longer than expected to prepare the axle to install than expected.

Am in process of checking over the steering box for my truck before fitting it. There is a small amount of backlash in the input shaft, how much backlash should I expect, what is acceptable and can it be adjusted out? You help and advice gratefully awaited. Ta Rob

I don't particularly like the idea of using swivel grease, in 12 years of 90 ownership I've never had a problem with leaking seals. I'm also concerned about getting grease out thats emulsified in the housing without having to strip the hub down and, having just stripped my replacement axle down, out of a late vehicle, and found the diff casing full of a blend of ep90 and lithium type grease I need some convincing that this is the right way to go. Please let me have your experience and views. Ta Rob

Hi guys, am in process of fitting shiny black refurbished axle case ('99on 24 spline) using the front radius arms from my 1988 90 only to find some commedian has changed the width of the mounting points on the new axle to ~54mm when the original axle was ~47mm. So the question is did the L/R "cone heads" decide the original arms weren't man enough and thought they'd better add some more metal or has the bush design changed? What have the rest of you done when upgrading the front axle on your trucks? Any help / advice gratefully received. Ta Rob

Taunton L/R said they were opening Sat am, or try "Can do 4 you" in Taunton they're normally prety good. Good luck Rob

Hi Jon, Until shoes have been in a long time you will see a level of uneven wear, its all part of the bedding in process. If you are feeling the braking effect coming and going at low speed I would suspect the drums are running out of true. This can happen as a result of the machining process if the castings aren't great or are distorted when held for machining. You could try checking this by reversing the drum on the hub and using a clock guage, alignment of drum reversed on the hub may not be as good as the correct way round so take measurents from opposite positions around the circumference, 6-8 should suffice, and average the results. Also check the drum surface for an even finish. Mintex shoes are likely to be fitted with a better friction material, however they all fit to a similar steel frame and will all require time to bed in due to wear in the back plates, adjusters, and other location points. Hope this helps Rob

Hi, If you can use gas and are used to producing neet welds you will get better penetration from TIG. Before you get too excited about welding Aluminium you need to be able to reverse polarity of the set to get the moltern metal to move to the work piece, it spits and farts and even experts struggle and dislike it. You are likely to have to spend about twice the money on a set capable of ally welding. Check out fleebay recently bought a Rhiemann set from Germany very good came complete with torche leads for Tig and MMA plus a selection of ceramics and tungsten holders. In addition to what you may buy for MIG you will also need a bench grinder for sharpening tungstens. Rob

Good luck mate! If you still need dims let me know I've a stripped chasis outside. These are a few observations which may help: Try and provide a steady for the rear chasis which you can set the replacement section on, you can try using M10 or 12 screws so you can add some correction. When you set the joint up its usually best to create a space between the two sections equivalent to the dia of the filler wire you are using to ensure you get full penetration . When you start applying weld you need to do so evenly around the joint, top bottom inside and out. This should reduce the potential for the joint to move as you weld it. Also suggest you plate the side of the joint to reduce the stress carried by the butt weld. Would do this using plug welding technique having drilled 1/2" - 3/4" holes in plates which extend 6" either side of joint then apply seal weld around perifery. Check chasis alignment before you do this by removing any clamps you've applied and see if it moves. Should make good entertainment over Christmas! Rob

Am rebuilding my front axle and need to retorque the swivel retaining bolts. I am therefore looking for a 14mm bihex crow foot wrench. Have looked all over but cannot find a bihex foot. Anyone out there in L/R help with this? If no joy then a spanner will need modifying. Cheers Rob

Would think ratchet straps would work fine your only looking to restrain ~250kg /side.

Clip nuts are always a pain in the arse. My preferred means of removal is by drilling the bolt heads out. Centre pop the bolt head and start with 3mm drill then work up until the head comes away, can always persuade them with a cold chisel when you get up to thread core diameter. Have fun Rob

To get the TRE out the drag link you need to be REALLY subtle. Suggest a 4lb lump hammer as a min then apply moderate to significant abuse rotating as you smack it, you need to cover the full length of thread engagement which can be quite deep. Don't apply abuse beyond this point or future adjustment becomes rether limited. Having broken the rusty bond you will prbably still need a good pair of Stillies to unwind it. Have fun!

I wouldn't start from there, sounds like a huge amount of work for the hire of a bigger engine crane if necessary! In your planning have you considered that a) you will remove the front grill and radiator which reduces the lift height and B) if you can't go all the way up drop the vehicle down (take front wheels off and lower on to axle stands or some dodds of wood). c) consider fitting spring compressors to the front springs when still loaded to prevent the body rising as you lift the engine. I expect the cross member and gearbox mounts etc to be removed since the tail of the gearbox will need to drop to get teh front of the engine out. Have lots of fun and don't forget its character building.

Thats strange cause the dealer got in one of the cheap ones @£70 and it was the black teflon finish. I was more interested in whether the expensive one was manufactured from higher grade steel and therefore stronger - couldn't believe the cost of surface treatment would be so significant. Thanks Rob