Ibex94

Hi Folks, Seeing Mike is doing so well with his 300 build and finding tie to put pictures up thought it was time I put a few up also after a momentous week when I got him fired up for the first time! Been making steady progress with build since starting a concerted effort to get him on the road by the end of 2013 - missed that slightly due to work and being a little over optimistic but now think I have a chance of booking an IVA test in Feb. The project started September '07 when I sent my deposit off to John - well if truth be told seed was sown some 20 years earlier when I still lived with my folks and one of our neighbours 'Mac' built chassis number 4. Still a cracking truck 1/4 of a century later. I liked the look of the short truck and took Johns advice about going for the 250 as it rides more smoothly than the 240, also the 240 has very little space in the back for installing passenger seats and with a 6 month old daughter at the time i was going to need more than 2 seats. I already had the donor vehicle my old E plate 90 which eventually succumbed to the chassis beetle - which due to delays obtaining a suitable chassis a couple of years earlier eventually lead to a management sponsored Ibex project - she learnt to drive in the 90. Like Triggers broom my original 90 had matured with age! Gearbox failure lead to the LT77 being replaced by a short bell housing R380 when this was still a standard replacement part from LR. Then the old turbo diesel eventually died due to excessive oilism - became known as Smokey Joe. This was replaced by a 200Tdi which did sterling service until the chassis called time. Below are pictures of the chassis as collected - what a day Hexham to Priddy in the soaking wet and dark. The standard chassis / body incorporates an integral roll cage, the B frame also has mounting points for external tree protection bars. Don't plan to off road quite that hard but am looking to use truck with a roof tent so I got David to fab up some similar mounts off the rear structure which will then give me four hard points in the roof to attach a roof rack to. The body was taken straight to the paint shop which with hindsight I wouldn’t do again as there are number of things I would have had fettled if I’d had a better look over the body before getting it painted. I then rebuilt the axles and rebushed the suspension, replacing all seals and any bearings that looked tired. I also decided to upgrade the diffs at this point to improve traction and reliability. I chose a Truetrac to go in the back axle and an open 4 pin diff in the front. Didn’t to go to the extent of an airlocker at this time and the truetrac seemed a sensible solution which could subsequently be moved to the front axle if an air locker goes in the back. Front Axle Bare axle ready for painting Axle casing awaiting assembly Swivels built up ready for the axle Installed axle with drag link fitted Spanner modified to make a crow foot allowing the swivel housing fixings to be torqued up properly. The old man pressed into service cleaning parts ready for reassembly. Rear Axle - Stripped and repainted just as the front Axle already installed under chassis Stub axle installed Stub axle and hub awaiting build Rear hub built up using new bearings To be continued....

Yep, factory ones are aluminium, I'd have said mine were more like 0.5mm from memory. Little self tappers are buggers - rust and eventually jam. Might be tempted to fix with a few spots of PU sealant like sikaflex - car builder solutions do one for a fraction of the cost of the sika product. Rob

Ok lads we have engine start, bit lumpy at idle but she started good as gold when I put a permanent live on the starter solenoid. Now just need to figure why I loose the live to the solenoid when it's cranking when it's using a standard 300tdi loom. Thanks for the pointers lads just assumed that the standard loom would provide the right supply.

I haven't checked but it's using what is basically a 300tdi loom, will make sure after lunch. I have now also had the solenoid valve out and using the priming pump have pumped diesel out that port, while replacing the solenoid and using the priming pump to make sure all air was out I also pumped fuel out the tank return pipe. Should I be able to do this and with the solenoid not energised? Having put back together tried more cranking to pump fuel up the injector pipes but to no avail not even a hint of disiesel! Frustrated of Priddy.

Sorry should have said, as far as I can tell the solenoid is working, I have pulled the terminal off and can hear it click when I put power on it. Cheers Lewis.

Hi all - happy new year, Decided to try and start the new year on a high - starting the Ibex for the first time! Over the last couple of days I've got the electrics on line successfully so time to try and start the old girl. Can't remember when she last run but its going to be over 8 years. stuck 20l of fuel in the tank and blead the system through using the lift pump manually, filled the filter bleeding air out as I went then blead the delivery pipe down to the injector pump. I then cracked all the injector pipes to bring fuel up to the injectors, then turned the truck over in 10 second bursts expecting to find diesel sprayed over the engine bay - no such luck. Then went back through the bleeding process process using the lift pump a number of times between cranking 5 or 6 times. I'm prety sure I've got diesel right up to the pump air free but can't understand why I can't get diesel up to the injectors. I understand that the injector pump should be self priming so don't believe there is anything else I can "crack" to bleed air out of. In installing the engine in the Ibex I've retained the standard tank and fuel pipework, replaced the lift pump and the cam belt. I've looked through the technical archive and this forum but can't find any advice about bringing a dry fuel system back to life. Any advice? Thanks Rob

Well just have to go with Koni's to match the bushes - Silver, blue and orange. there's worse!

I was quoted £60 min order value for galvanising, can't remember the weight but i remember thinking it was quite high.

Hi all, I'm trying to sort out the ride height of the Ibex at the moment. Build is nearly complete so far as the main assembly goes, so the weight is close to where it will be when I put him on the road to start with. At present there is no coolant, engine oil or fuel so 15kg light on front axle and a max of 45kg light on the off side. The Ibex is sitting on the original 1988 90 springs, couple of pics showing how she sits at the moment. I've taken the following dimensions. Front right Blue Green Compressed Spring length 275mm Gap to bump stop 103mm Front left Blue Yellow Compressed spring length 274mm Gap to bump stop 94mm Rear right Blue Red Compressed Spring length 307mm Gap to bump stop 110mm Rear left Yellow White Compressed Spring length 305mm Gap to bump stop 110mm I know he's sitting on some tall tyres but seats seem a good couple of inches higher than I remember the old 90 being. So I'm looking for advice on how high you think the truck is compared to std I'm guessing 35-40mm based on a 110 I measured. So which way would you go with springs to reduce the height. Had a look at Red 90's spring page - RR std look like they reduce ride slighty but the off side ends up sitting slightly low which will only get worse with fuel and driver. Any advice much appreciated. Rob

I would find yourself a local propshaft specialist and get them to make them for you by modifying your existing units. Then you'll know they're spot on for your installation. My rear cost me ~£60 inc vat for shortening and balancing (needed 40mm cutting out of it), all you need to provide them is your flange to flange dimension. While they're at it they should check your uj's there are some stronger units available to fit the stock yokes but they aint cheap. If you can't find a propshaft specialist locally then I'd recommend Chard's in Bristol. www.prop-shaft.com They do some interesting and exotic work as well as the more mundane. Plenty seem to deal with them mail order.

Hi, Start with the gearbox. Defender / 90 / 110 Gearboxes should all have a common mounting point. The difference with the R380 / 300Tdi is that the gearbox has a long bell housing forcing the engine further forward in the engine bay. The 200Tdi was originally mated to an LT77 which had a short bell housing and had the engine mounted to the back of the engine bay. For a short period LR offered an R380 with a short bell housing as a replacement spare for the LT77 when they finished producing it. Short bell housing R380's are as rare as rocking horse droppings. So if you plan to fit a std. R380 then the engine will be forward and you'll need to change the engine mounts - probably have to weld some new ones to the chassis. Re Prop shafts I think all front defender props should be the same as the gearbox flanges should be in the same place. UJ's I'd check what you've got and only replace if you feel wear. If ok grease up well and use them. Decent UJ's aren't cheap and don't get conned by the cheap ones. They tend to be fitted with fewer larger pins than genuine ones and as a results don't take the load failing all to early. If you're not sure find a prop shaft specialist and seek advice. Chards in Bristol have been really good - you may also need there services if you change the gearbox installation from std. Hope this helps, good luck. Rob

Hi, If you're looking for connectors try this company, bought a couple of lots from them to sort my kit out. http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/index.php/automotive_connectors/econoseal_15mm_connectors/?k=:12:1625: Alot of the LR plugs a sockets are from the econoseal range. The plugs are really easy to strip down and simtek do replacement crimps and seals. Regards Rob

Hi Mike, I think the following should take you to the thread I started, if not search for Foers Ibex 7F 00094 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79318&hl=# Like you seem to run out of time. Looks like you're making good progress, thought I'd get mine on the road in a couple of years but six years and 2 daughters have made that slip. Final push to get mine on the road, I've been running a 4.4 Rangy for the last 3 years while waiting for the Ibex and its now costing me a small fortune. Think I've got most issues sorted just need a little time to get them installed. I've got lots of photos of the build a lot of which are related to refurbishing Land Rovers. Let me know if you've got any problems you want to know what I did about. 94 is a 250S which I've fitted my old Landies 200Tdi into mated to an R380 with short bell housing. In terms of sorting problems I think my main problems have been around sorting the air intakes both for the heater and the engine given the 200 would have taken air from the n/s along with the heater in its original form but I've now got engine intake on the o/s ready for a snorkel after IVA. Heater is on n/s now supplied using a 4" bilge blower. Also done lots on the electrics and mated a Td5 with a 300 loom just about at the point where I put power on and see what blows! Regards Rob

Hi Mike, Good to see another Ibex being built - whats your chassis number? Just trying to get enough time to get mine finished - got round to writing down the to finish list and its not as scary as I thought. Hopefully might see mine running this year, work permiting! Interesting to watch your build develop. Good luck - the first 6 years are the worst . Rob

Thanks Ralph, I'll have a look at what flasher unit's fitted. shouldn't take long to sort that out. Rob

Morning playmates, Just finishing the rear wiring of the Ibex and just need to provide the trailer connection now. The loom was sourced from 300Tdi's, Do I need to fit a control unit for the additional lights between the existing rear loom and the trailer loom? How does the trailer indicator warning light work? Many thanks. Rob

Think I've got a couple of the bungs in the garage from my loom capers. Yours for the postage if you want em. Rob

Similar to Western, I welded two of the brake pipe tube nuts together screwed one end into my airline blower and the other into the calliper. Stick block of wood between pistons so they don't pop out until you've got them all out. Simples Rob

Allards rebuilt mine and tricked it up with 360 degree bearings and a larger compressor. Really tidy job Alan is really worth talking to particularly if you'd like a little bit more out the engine. Rob

Using scanners doubled up as shown is not good practice. It may achieve objective at a push but it is not uncommon for the spanner jaw to fail or for the arrangement to collapse on you if used like this. Sleeving the spanner or using a crow foot are both safer / better approaches IMO.

Alternatively.....weld M10 nut to spanner shank this then allows you to use socket and wrench. Most useful on reassembly as it allows you to torque the bolts up correctly. NB torque wrench needs to be at 90degrees to spanner to ensure moment arm to bolt is maintained. Rob

Hi all, I purchased some of land rovers finest forward facing rear seats some time back and I'm now looking to fit them in the back of the Ibex. So I now need a little information off one of the later vehicles with the same fold down forward facing rear seats fitted. I would be very gratefull if somebody out there could take a few measurement for me so I can get the correct relationship between the rear body the lower support frame and the seat unit. In particular I need: the height of the seat mounting face from the tub floor. the location of the main seat fitting from the inner edge of the wheel arch. the distance of the rear most seat fitting back of the vehicle the distance of the rear most sub frame fitting from the back of the vehicle. the distance between the inner faces of the rear arches. Many thanks for your help with this. Rob

Try playing a fan heater on area of the bulkhead before you work the material onto it. Have the insulation nice and warm before you apply it. Have fun

Painting galvanise, aluminium alloys or GRP will require an etch primer to give the paint a good key. I don't believe this is necessary when using adhesives. All my body panels are bonded to the galvanised structure without an etch process.

Any oil on the surface is likely to reduce the bonding of whatever you apply to it so I would degrease it. I would use Panel Wipe which you should be able to get from motor factor or paint supplier - normally comes in 5l container - it's really good stuff to have around - if you plug the magic words into bay of e you can get 5l delivered for less than £20 1l ~ £10. My second choice would be brake cleaner which is dead easy to source from Hallfords.