Ibex94

Here are the photos Mark. This is how I fitted my filler. The Ibex replicates the majority of std L/R mounting points so fuel tank, engine, gearboxes, front axle all sit in the same position as they would in the donor L/R. I think the doors are also in the same position and are the same length. I used the following bits in my installation: Flush filler, filler funnel, captive nut ring, Fuel resistant rubber hoses - 1 off 90 deg bend and 2 off 45 deg bends, aluminium connectors and stainless clips. All told I think its about £220 for the bits. Shows position of filler on side of truck. Shows filler neck inside vehicle and connecting hoses. I'm going to modify this by fitting the tank vent to the joiner between the two 45 deg elbows. Shows hoses coming through the floor of the Ibex - not a constraint on your install. Shows connection to the tank - you will need to offset the 90 deg elbow by using a short section of fuel resistant hose taken from one of the 45 deg elbows (surplus to requirement) Hope this helps. Rob

what Dave W says is true - broadly done that with the Ibex - will post photos tomorrow. In bits you will need one 90 deg elbow and two 45 deg elbows in rubber plus two joiners and clips. You will also need to sort out a vent as the existing goes into the neck just need to find a good local welder who can stick aluminium together - just found one here and he's mustard. Rob

Hi Mike, I think that whilst Ralph is correct in what he says that the clarification you want is that the easiest way to remove the wiring loom (IMO) is to disconnect in the engine bay and withdraw it into the vehicle. It is wise to photograph and label the loom as you dismantle it - I've used masking tape wrapped round the loom at connections to write on what its supposed to connect to - I've a few bulkhead wiring photo's if you get stuck. Good luck Rob

From memory the component the lock barrel fits in is part of the door handle. I replaced mine along time ago - the worst part is that the handle securing bolts fit into inserts in the handle which just spin when you come to undo them. Rob

Lotus Elise seats are similar and can be picked up for sensible money on bay of e. Rob

Lotus Elise seats are similar and can be picked up for sensible money on bay of e. Rob

I had this happen to my 200Tdi, Solenoid was stuck, easy fix from memory, and Its run for a significant period since replacement. Rob

Ok Micky, I've found what I remembered 1 N/S rear corner genuine part no MWC3317, and an alternate I'd forgotten a matching pair I removed from my truck when I replaced the sides with the all in ones - they both show some surface rust but would shot blast very clean. I'm in and out a powder coasters most weeks while I'm finishing the Ibex and could get the blasted / coated if you're interested. Rob

I think I might have the corners in my garage - genuine galvanised bits. Will have a look. Rob

Thanks for views guys. Just to clarify - my vehicle has 19" rims so from searching around I can only find General Grabbers and MTR's in the right size. (Preference from previous experience would be BFG's but they just don't go big enough.) I am also a small holder and use vehicle off road throughout the year so I'm looking more than just good wet road performance. I don't have any experience of the new Grabber A/T's are they any good on wet muddy fields? How bad are MTR's on road? Thanks for advice again. Rob

Hi Guys, I have an 02 plate L322 Rangey which I want to fit some Goodyear MTR's on for the Winter. Concern is that that are only S speed rated. The manual specifies off road tyres with speed ratings Q/T subsequently stating that vehicle speed is then limited to that of the tyre speed rating. Is it therefore acceptable to fit S's? Does anyone know what Dibbles view on this would be? Many thanks Rob

Hi Cyper, Buy cheap and repent quite soon. In general the cheaper the joint the fewer elements (needles) in each journal. I would recommend H J Chard in Bristol (www.hjchardsons.co.uk - hjchard@hotmail.co.uk) service is really good and prices not ridiculous (~£80 for shortening - rebalance and service ~£60) they will do anything you want and I suspect will sell you joints for DIY if necessary. There aren't many specialist prop companies around and they're more than happy to advise. Rob

Hi all, A bit late I know but I'll drop this for others surfing the topic. I've just had my rear prop shortened for the ibex (Land Rover 100" Ibex 2.5m). I used H J Chard in Bristol (www.hjchardsons.co.uk - hjchard@hotmail.co.uk) service is really good and prices not ridiculous (~£80 for shortening - rebalance and service ~£60) they will do anything you want from mods to existing to make from scratch. They also have an extreme duty uj. I was talking to the chap about a double Cardon prop from a Toymota (Hilux think he said) which have them as std - he showed me a replacement (Chinese) component supplied by others which was Donald Duck after 8 miles! (£170 worth) he reconnect his price for producing an equivalent was about £400 - Toyota want £1k. Hope this helps someone. Rob Ps don't be surprised when you turn in through the gates of a builders merchants!

I got mine recorded by a place in Avonmouth they had the recon unit on the shelf - from memory it was about £120 a year back. Rob

Thanks for advice lads. Rusty Nissan started me looking down the Donaldson route and think I've found one that may suit. However got to change intended position to between inner wing and engine - more brackets to be made and there's lots of other things coolant hose oil cooler hoses and steering column all to avoid. Suppose if it was easy....... Rob

You also need to be very careful that your rebuild parts list has a price not dissimilar to your telephone number! It is also worth considering going for a later axle from a breaker, bonus would be you get vented discs. Later vehicles have wider radius arms and consequently wider slots on the axle mounts which can be addressed with, I think from memory a form g washers inserted either side of the bush. Rob

Hi guys, I'm sorting out the induction system at the moment. I have a 200 tdi installed and have been struggling with how to install the air filter. There is insufficient space on the near side to run the intake from the same location as on a 90. I therefore need to install intake on the off side and will connect to a snorkel in the same manner as a 300 tdi ( unless anyone comes up with a better solution). I've been round the local breakers and tried a number of different filter boxes the best option I've found is the original 19j / 200tdi steel canister with the cylindrical filter inside. This is designed to draw air from the outside in, however with my space constraints it works much better if I draw air from the centre out. In this configuration the air filter sits on the off side inner wing with my inlet on the end facing to the rear, the outlet then faces the across the engine bay. So can anyone give me a good reason why I can't run the cartridge filter in reverse? Will try and post a photo later. Many thanks. Rob

Thanks retro - see what you mean - think I'll save my limbs and organs and make as you suggest - i can scale from pic which is really usefull. Thanks again. Rob

Hi Guys, I had my LT230 rebuilt for the project, unfortunately in doing so I've lost the linkage which actuates the centre diff lock, in particular the cank and wire link that attach the shaft where it comes through the casing. I've spoken to local LR dealer a couple of times but he appearws to be unable to identify / source an new spare. Does anybody have a reference for this part I can chase LR with. Many thanks Rob

Try Merlin Motorsport from memory they do a foil heat shield material by the sheet easy to bend, stand off pipe by 1/2" should do the trick. Only thing to cook on that side is the clutch slave cylinder.

Std 300Tdi installation is with engine mounted forwards in the chassis hence the std R380 has a long bell housing. You won't fit a 300 to the Std 200Tdi mounts as you end up with the g/box remote between the front seats. You can't get short bell housing R380's for love or money they were only made for a short period to enable installation in TD's and 200's to replace the LT77. There is very little to change from 300 to 200 as L/R made some significant changes for emmissions compliance. Keep it simple stay with the 200. Pull pin and retreat.......

It all comes down to how much you want to spend fthe amount effort to install it for the amount of use you will give it. I went the Truetrac route and know alot of others who find them good.. Steve at Crown Diffs is really helpfull and will happily discuss your needs and provide suggestions and all the advice on installation. Google Crown Diffs and you will find the website - the most comprehensive site out there dedicated to Diffs and axle internals. Rob

One of the best places to go to try and understand your vehicle and work out where things should go is at a breakers - you may also be able to pick up serviceable parts as well. I use CWS at Glastonbury which isn't exactly round the corner for you but neither are they the other end of the country. They still let you scavenge and always have a good selection of defenders from early to late. Rob

Your rear body wants to be true with the rear cross member otherwise it won't sit right accross the vehicle at the B Pillar. You can get penny washers to adjust the mouting with the bulkhead outriggers and from memory the braces from the bulkhead to chassis legs are all slotted for adjustment. Rob

Hi I've got a rear loom from my 1988 90 in good sound condition and unmollested I seam to remember it being longer than necessary. As above PM me if you're interested. Rob