jai_landrover

Should be there with the usual Herts Beds lot, Its a toss up between this and a private camping weekend down at Slab with the local offroad group

It also greatly depends on what you wish to compete in and what body you wish to use. Most people use Defender/series body panels as its easy and cheap. What comp safari do you want to do? Do you want to do trialing? Do you wish to do all the events or only play with a few clubs? If you build an 88 inch to ALRC Spec you can trial, race almost 99% of all the events, but its short. If you build a 100 inch and use a def/series body you are instantly ruled out of ALRC events, you can build an 100 inch but must keep to the rules and run a disco or RRC shaped vehicle. Depends on your really My preference would be 88 inch for all round fun to ALRC Spec, Or for full out racing I'd build a 109 truck cab build it 108 you have an inch leaway with wheelbase again built to ALRC regs with the long overhang but make the panels out of ali and hang them on a lightweight steel angle frame. No good for anthing but comp safari tho really.

Hopefully by next weekend my old man and i should have had a few hours spare and built one of 3 diffs up spec: P38 18mm cross pin hd diff centre, modified, Rover long nose case, Ashcroft 4.75 front cwp, Pinned with phosphor bronze button, Having picked up some cwp reasonably cheap ish and only really needing one front I have a front and rear cwp spare having made the tooling to build up diffs and jig up for pinning for my own siff it aeems a shame not to use the tooling. Thinking is it worth my while doing all three and putting them up for sale. Was going to build them all up and keep them for a comp motor / front as a apare but my question is: what are they worth?? what's the going rate for a 4 pin with hd Ashcroft cwp and pinned diff. Got to be a fair wack? I usually under price when it comes to such stuff usually modify bits for mates but would Be interesting to see what people think they are worth? Will see if there are any takers Sunday at our local club comp but I think my old man might be modifying our collection of p38 4 pin diffs in his lathe for the next few weeks!!

Cant you sort your pcb out with a decent DVM and a trip or two to RS or dare I say it Maplins

Does happen on older rrc and discos the mount on the axle rusts off and falls off.

Agree no silly lift and std motor the genuine bushes should last 5 or even 8 years As a guide rough guide cheaper paddocks ones on the same motor will last half of the genuine and with a lifted motor depending on how much then theyre usually good for 2 3 years sorta 2 inch lift ish.

My old man just knocked us "The family" a couple of press tools for panhard rod and suspension arms. I removed and refitted a pair of front radius arms in less than 10 minutes no faffing with the usual suitably sized sockets. Must say I have about 14 arms ranging from old narrow early RRC to defender narrow and disco wide kicking about here to re bush for the family motors will paint up re bush and keep to swap out as and when. I'll probably offer the local guys from our pub meet an exchange for some beer tokens if they want std bushes but the bling fashion and easy of changing themselves poly will always be a favourite option for sure. Horses for courses Me i like my metalistic bushes!!

Yes............. I had the blue ones in an effort to keep the ride soft and the suspension flexible. Mission failed! They gave a harsh ride which some people like (i don't) and IK'll say yea the car was tight and drove well for 3 months. They however only lasted 3 months before they began to become ovaled and the handling suffered described as really pants. I also have some polybushes in the garage that came from another motor which are also knackared. Me personally you cant beat genuine bushes however you do need a press and or a means to replace them THE only reason I'd go for poly be it expensive ones or cheapies over a metalistic bush would be if I had no access to a press and resign myself to changing them every few months. Alot of people say they are great and some may be. I have never driven one thats still nice to drive. A mate said that his was great but when I drove said motor it was more like piloting a ocean liner. I don't fit genuine to my own motor, I fit paddocks cheap Metalistic bushes WHY after me praising genuine.... Simple I change them each and every year before the MOT so the motor is all re bushed ready for another years trouble free tight service. I use it a part of a service schedule but if I were to fit new ones to a paying customer or suggest bushes then Genuine ones all the way. Pitty your not closer because I wouldn't mind pressing them in for you for a few beer tokens. My money is on metalistic bushes all day every day.

Diamonds are Very popular as they measure in at 33 inch and very narrow. Bronco are indeed great tyres I had a set once. I will be going for diamonds next for sure

Will be knocking up a pinion height setting block in the next few weeks. Try and get my p38 centred 4 pin ashcroft cwp diff built up for the alrc nationals.

Depending on the suffix it may be worht some money I know Ashcroft usedf to pay for early 200 Defneder boxes

Hey V8 Freak!!! Barge aye!! hehe I heard somthing about this. Erm I can't co drive with you but good luck I'm sure somone will take you up on your kind offer! lol atb Jai

Old school trailers choice plus 2 shocks and red white rrc hd rear springs all round longer and softer like Andrex served me well. Pro comp got a bad name for shocks but that was mainly due to poor fitment by home mechanics and or clueless qual mechs fitting retaining washers wrongly and blaming poor quality of the parts.

They are 10 inch same as late series III direct replacements. 109 or lwb will be 11 inch and not fit.

Check the wheel bearing usually when a wheel bearing is on its way out worn etc the driveflange will work loose

I have 110 fronts on my 90 no fancy vented discs or posh pads just std 110 mintex ones and it does stop extremly well

Sounds a bit of a headache! I've never had to cut one. One proved to be a PITA on an old 110 but parking next to a deep curb and with the puller on the drop arm a couple of wiggles with the steering wheel; (PAS of course engine running) the drop arm fired off with a bang. Never had any steering issues my 90 its has always been tight and when its worn you can feel it pretty much straight away. My 90 had to be in good nick. I used to trial alot aswell as marshall my fair share the steering was checked weekly by myself and scruteneers any sign of wear even slight I would put in my spare arm and swap them out.

4 Hours to change a drop arm. REALLY??? or are you takin the Micheal? 20 mins max if the drop arm is stuck fast and I need to use my puller.

Tis great however I already have HD arms and do not want to get new HD arms and then a reloaction kit for the disco type front HD arm. so far tis taken 1/2 hour and I suspect another half an hour it'll be done. I know a later disco arm is by far better but for me to change to that setup I will need to spend some money that I don't have for my 90. Money is going on my toys.

I put a grease nipple in the bottom of my drop arm years ago. The only problem was it got wiped out 3 days after fitment trialling. Doh! This time its getting protected! Plenty more cleaning up and making neat to be done. Need to clean the weld up and make th enipple sit loweer down and flush then find a rubber cap to keep the dust out.

My company passat had one it got blocked. It tried to regenerate it didn't work. regeneration is somthing like sit at 3000RPM for longer than 20 miles. I did this but it was too far gone £1900 quid later main dealer another was fitted. Another good reason not to buy a new car. Yes some people punch them through but the ecu can tell tho. They are a legal requirement well since 2007 on diesels to filter the exhaust. and thus emit less emissions. All pointless and another waste of dosh. There is a huge thing on the net where many londoners are taking VW to court as the car was missold to them living in London and always being in traffic the EGT never gets hot enough to burn off the collected waste. Not fit for purpose or somthing like that. Spending £20K rebuilding an early defender or RRC with a tdi seems more and more favourable as an everyday motor as they roll out p;lenty of these silly little rules and regulations..

Twas a struggle towing one of them back from Cambridge on 900 XL's a disco Transfer box and 3.5 diffs!! Ow did I mention they're quite wide. Follwing the white line with one tyre. on the country lanes I had to becareful not to get the trailer nearside wheel in the grass verg when people were coming past me.

A Perfect example of misues of a strop. A decent 24 mm rope would have had that mopor out alot quicker, safer and without any jarr'd backs or tow points!

I towed one back from a farm in Northampton behind my 90 on a std nato hitch. Trailer is quite wide. I ended up getting rid of the trailer but still have 2x wheels and tyres. I think they are 825 R16 wheel nuts are like bedfords LH and RH threads. Jai

Lithion Lipo and brushless is the wy forward. there will be some serious cordless drills/grinders out there in a couple of years and the technology is getting seriously cheap now so it shouldn't be too long until we get some good deals. I got a sealey/machine mart gun about £70 or there abouts works great not used in anger yet but as Si says big and bulky not the best but more than hefty enough for what I want it for.