jai_landrover

Yea that sounds right x2. Paddocks didn't stock them and anywhere that did wanted £60 plus Vat each. Now Britpart have made them Paddocks are selling them for £30 plus Vat each!

Much is written in text books which any 5 year old can quote. Not everybody has real life experience. Much like braking going down steep decents. Some people scream about how you should never do it. If you have ever trialed anything more than RTV then you know that you have to, to complete the courses set out and its all to do with feel and for the first few times it goes against everything your brain and body is telling you after a while its natural. Text books say Now way and thats just bull!! I had the above er discussion/debate with a guy that came trialing with me. His 90 was a challenge thingy very blinged up but he had No experience at all. in fact he retired.because he was doing so bad. he got ribbed because he took it so bad. If he would have carried on and stuck out the comp he might have got at least some credit but he bailed never to be seen again. I have seen this axle extraction used before it works but in fact the military used to use it. I wouldn't unless you run out of other options.. I Do like the saying: You can Bull**** alot in life, Nobody can bull**** experience..

How did you get on with the outtermost wheel bearing? When I mocked it up the outtermost wheel bearing was only 75% on the plain sub axle whereas 25% of the outtermost part of the bearing was out over the thread and not supported. We junked that Idea for the road because we plan on using stupid size tyres and we believed it wasn't as good as it could have been so its on hold until I can machine a couple of hubs out a few mm each side or come up with a better idea. Too many projects means it'll be done at some point tho.

Hi Pantg Yes he has. its been fitted a few months now. It works well but is a bit noisey and you sometimes get a bang when cornering on the road. My salisbury Detroit seems far smoother in operation with the occasional clonk from the rear but the Kaiser is more frequent. I believe he has talked to Dave (we live 5 miutes away) and I think the outcome was to run it. He changed the oil and it was fine no bits of nasty broken parts and clean. It hasn't been used in anger and probably never will. My bro gets ribbed for being the Tarmac King!! Tesco Carparks are getting harder to get into these days! is his usual response. Erm I want one for the front on my 90. Reading up people have fitted without problems but I have doubts. I have aquired a 10 spline lockright myself for the front so may use that with Free Wheeling Hubs but its not strong at all as you have to weaken the diff centre to install it and its only 10 spline. All the best Jai

I Fully agree all ropes and recovery can be dangerous. But knowing your equipment knowing how to use it and how to link ropes etc is all part of it aswell as basic physics angles of pull and expectaion of where the towed vwhicle will go once moving. Strops I see as a bit pointless unless for winching or to secure somthing not towing. My first competitive trial I drove completly on my own one series owner caught a tree and as per usual with a replacement LR bumper it wedged against the Firestone SAT. Twas going nowhere!!! Out comes Mr Winch Pajero flashing amber lights, flourecent jackets (I'm not joking it was like a scene from Londons Burning Way OTT). He proceeded to spend the next 10 minutes rigging up. Everyone and I mean everyone was experienced triallers stand there watching but well out the way. It was safe, very safe and maybe it was more the marshal (thats all he ever did never drove a trial) Wow I was amazed how long it took. normal procedure would be to attach a strop to a motor and a hook to the end of the bumper and for the driver of the damaged motor to reverse very very slowly to ease the bumper out. I agree not as safe. Not dangerous either just the usual way most of the trials guys would sort it. Common sense and driving accordingly. unfortunatly these days there seems to be a great lack of it especially in the P&P community it would seem. Shackles flying I was refering to when sompeople usually at a P&P uses a strop and tries to do a snatch recovery the instant loading on the shackel/chassis is massive.enough to cause sevear damage to persons in the vehicle. A degree of stretch as you sat Mart makes things way safer in terms of instant shock load applied to the towpoints and the weight of the toing vehicle to some degree helps get the stuck motor moving. The Vid I posted is the nationals. All motors have a cage, secure towpoints, mesh and or windscreens. It shows how much abuse the 24 mm rope can take and if used well can extract really stuck motors. Agree that if you have a dead disco in porridge up to ots doors then its winch time moving a dead motor that weighs 2 Plus tonnes and 6 or more tonnes of porridge infront of it a rope isn't going to work all that well. Granted. Personal choice 8 meters can be halfed to 4 meters.which both are lengths are very useful. Rope over strops anyday for me they're versatile and can take plenty of abuse if req. I was at driveround/open day event many years ago as a kid. It was an open day and the AWDC was running a trials event the same day but on the other half of the site. Well somone in a RRC on the P&P was towing out a 90 with a nato hitch the 90's rear x member was shot. There was a video of the nato hitch detatching flying through the rear screen of the RRC and through the Passenger head rest (yes through it) and through the front screen. Luckily nobody was in there and nobodoy was injured. Ever since seeing the video after the event I'm the careful one! Kinetic ropes tp be used when its called for, nylon when called for and Strops for winching/securing. When the local fire brigade got stuck in the snow at the bottom of a dead end close we got them out safley. Our thankyou letter which I will one day frame and put up had a section from the chief that was there at the time. He commented on how professional we were and how they were very grateful of our help. I think he appreciated me Cutting a rope up to be re spliced at a later date after inspecting it before attaching it to the front of one of his appliances. (Never lend somone your recovery box full of equipment). I always carry an 8 meter rope behind my seats that never gets abused. Although the fire engine wasn't a dead burried motor it must have weighed in a fair bit. More a case of more suited tyres 4x4 or 8x8 with us both helping up the fire engine that was only 2wd on road tyres locker engaged but just spinning. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Towing ropes for the road are they actually legal? I heard they were no longer legal but I may be wrong. It used to be that you could use one upto 8 meters however that was defo changed. years ago. I blew up a Gearbox coming off the M11 near Stanstead best part of 45-50 miles. My old man came out in his 300tdi disco and towed me home on my trusty 8 meter rope. Took us ages to get back my 90 went faster behind his disco that it had done with its na. before I tdi'd it. My old man has a good simple method as he used to do truck recovery for years. when they used scammel explorers and series 1's. Basically its waving his Right hand out the window various commands to what he needs the towed driver to do. i.e brake more, brake less, hold on the brake handy at Roundabouts keeping the rope taught, letting off the brakes etc. I have used the same method and it makes it easy even with somone not used to being towed.

I got it from Ebay quite cheaply 90psi on 120 cut off. Maybe a mistake buying fro ebay! But Matt Savage 4x4 does them not too silly on price. All the adaptors cost the most but I'm not complaining I wanted it big and free flowing screfix for the manifold and outlet pipes I believe it was made for Central Heating Radiators. And the threas on 4 manifold outlets is weird luckily they do them ase well. My only real concern is the heat build up. May have to make a cooling ring rad to cool the air before it goes into the manifold cos it can get seriously hot!

Hey I know its cheeky but maybe you could help me, Do you know of any old members of the pennine club about. I have a trialer with pennine LRC stickers on it. would love to get some old pics or ideally a video of it in action of possible its currently being stripped and rebuilt as a trialer. its an 80 inch series 1. I understand its not likley that there will be any pictures about let alone video but I thought I'd try. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us

My pet hate is people using lifting strops for towing. as above 24mm rope I use 8 meter ones and I have one thats 12 meters but the 8 meter one has served me well for years. somone not educated in towing using a lifting strop is so very dangerous. Seen far too often at P&P bumpers and jate rings bent or ripped off. A strap wrapped around the front and or rear of a motor and attached to a tow point instantly makes me think the owner/driver has no idea and is usually avoided at P&P's. Rope is more expensive but it does the job. Strops for winching ropes for recovery. Simple We all know a strop can be used to pull out a stuck motor safely if the stuck motor isn't that stuck and needs just a slight pull by taking up the atrain and driving once fully taught. but in reality how many times does this work? sometimes you need to use the weight of thw towing vehicle to unstuck the stuck motor. If done sensibly its very effective. How much abuse a rope can take. strops would have if used to snatch like that would have ripped off tow points and most likley hurt the occupants jar'd backs and shackels flying through windscreens.

Input shaft is shorter on the defender box it has a different size spigot and bell housing is obviously shorter to match th einput shaft. The top housing is different but you need to get into the box to change bits internally to make it a direct replacement. It can be done. Is it worth it? Probably not. Ashcroft to an exchange for £400 or 500 quid. No hassel. Somepeople say you can do it without special tools I have doubts I have an ascroft recon box done 13 months and selection went wrong. Its in bits in th egarage probably scrap now as its no doubtly dusty/dirty. If I had tools it would be good to rebuild but I havent. Alas ashcrofts as theyre 5 mins up the road had more dosh for another box. People or should I say Butchers put in Disco boxes (same size spigot) but long input shaft/bellhousing but this moves your gear stick to the middle front seat. it moves the transferbox rearward by 4 or more inches and means you need special propshafts and g box mounts. IMO Its an abortion but it has been done.

Here is the pics of the manifold. I wanted very little restriction so went 3/4 BSP. Check Valve, Pressure switch, Saftey blow off valve and some outlets. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Jai

I'm still building my OBA system, so far I have the AC pump fitted to the engine and first test results seem very promising. Directly from the pump no tank just 5 meters of hose 1/2inch dia the tyre valve and hose was the limiting factor. We inflated my 900 tyre to 28 psi in less than a minute more like 30 mseconds from flat. Very impressed. I have a RRC air suspension tank and got some high temp hose to go from the pump to my manifold. I will post a pic in a sec need to di it out from the tol box. I couldn't find a decent freeflowing manifold so I used a 3/4 inch radiator manifold and 3/4 hosetails.

Hey Andyb hope your keeping well!! Might be down your way having a go at one of your SCOR events later in the year!! Gotta love those Druids Can't say a bad word about them!

£ for £ ease of build and overall toughness Its Blueband for me all the way. People will disagree but I'd be perfectly happy comp safari racing, time trialing or CCV'ng with Blueband. Its been tried and tested for many years been trashed, trashed and tested by the masses of comp guys since forever so I like it!

Love the caged motor pipe and panel and old strong 4 speed box if the gearstick is right.

hybrid, i agree for a competition motor hack out the rear tub let it flex but and in my case my 90 is retiring slowly from anything serious. Adding 15mm probably more like 5mm spacer behind the bump stop is so that my mitchelins do not rub anywhere on full articulation back only is not going to worry my at all. If somone was adding 2 inch blocks then i'd be slapping myself! As my 90 will be going back to a semi traveling bus then limiting its upward travel by 5 or 10mm isnt great. Its not caged nor willl it ever be. I will be intrested in peoples pics of their series leaf srpung LR's articulation setups that are within alrc regs. I just finished rebuilding a rear axle up to be attached soon and tested for max droop compression making sure brake lines and propshaft are likley to stay in one piece. I'll post up in the series section another day for that. I do fancy giving a punch event a go in a sub 1 ton 80 inch leafer for the crack tho!!

Suspension as already said is a kind of preference. I normally run +3 softer longer springs 175Lbs/inch with +2 shocks on my 90 rear end. The rear also has 2 inch blocks. I am at the limit of how much max droop I can have without binding up my rear propshafts (Salisbury rear axle detroit locker shorter prop higher angle and std UJ's) with a Hard top. Currently its inbetween setups. I had to put it back to ALRC Regs for the nationals earlier in the year so I have lighter duty 145 lbs/inch std height springs with 2 inch blocks with a truck cab and empty back end its not too bad with 33 inch tyres nothing rubs at all. Compression I am at my limit my tyres just and i mean just rub the stiffening strips Mitchelin XL's 900x16 measured height 36 inch in my rear tub because I havent extended my bump stops by 10-15mm. It will go back to red white springs all round when I put the Hard top and fill the back end with kit. Front end is red whites no lifting blocks but the weight with the winch and tdi isn't too bad. Bit more fannying to do to get it better. If you believe you can buy a £200 or even £400 suspension "Kit" and make it great for offroading and great on road your on to a loser. rear suspension took hours of jacking up chalking up measuring max compression max droop wheel offsets and getting a workable combination opposed to many that fit nice looking wheels and a lifty kit. I believe that if you do not know what rate springs you've fitted your just stabbing in the dark. Many Kits as said simply offer std height but stiffer srpings. You can see many motors lifting wheels when out playing because of the stiff setup whereas a nice supple setup will follow the ground nicley. On road you lose. I would never buy a kit but if I was to consider anything I'd want to know: Spring rate and Free height, Shocks compresses length and fully extended length before fitting to my motor. . Still if I had a std motor I'd fit a locker first no questions.

That explains ALOT! Thats why I put I guess he would have a field day.. I'm not upto date on challenge regs. I have stayted away from them tbh. purley because depending on where your competing depends on regs. Explains why there are so many abortions out there claiming to be "challenge trucks". I really have the view that IF your going to build a roll cage opposed to a pretend bit of tubing that looks good. It should be a real one and for the extra effort involved it might aswell comply with as many regulations as possible hence ALRC. I now understand the cowboy features of some of the challenge trucks I and many others have laughed at in the past. No doubt there are many many good ones but some are really really poor TBH.

A friend has just purchased a 90 truck cab and it is fitted with a North Offroad cage. The drivers side and passengers side bars that tie the rear and front hoop together are both bowed in. I know it'd fail any scruteneering event where it matters and by tapping the cage with a screwdriver its most certainly CDS by its tinnyness (thin walled) Its just where the motors have rubbed trees. and theyve deformed. My money is most definatly and always will be with Blueband. When a rear hoop knocks a tree quite hard it kinked the cage and twists it by cica 3 inch rearward I definatly wouldn't want the job of recaging a motor for a hit that a blueband cage takes weekend in, weeked out, year in and year out for god knows how many years. My 80 inch cage is larger dia blueband than minimum spec but it must have been built circa 1970's/1980's and its taken every knock roll, tree and even by all accounts various comp safari's along the way ever since then by various owners. Nobody can say that that cage hasn't lasted or been up to it. Just a note here I found that the rear mounts have Hard wooden spacers which sounds mad now BUT back in the day was considered a safe method and signed off hell they have done their job. it will be updated to the latest spec for mounts so once again it can takie part but Sorry guys Blue band all the way CDS for a rally car or fast track car fine Offroad comps then Blueband. I'm still very much surprised that alot of Winch Comp motors get away with the bull cages they get the rear hoop in a king cab is miles behind th edriver. some rear hoops have a bend in them and yet nobody seems to worry. I guess they're not taking part in serious comps or until somone gets hurt. I am friendly with an MSA official that goes to assess events to make sure theyre run according to the regs. If he turned up at a winch comp I guess he'd have a field day.

OK so ALRC Specs are not MSA but if you build to ALRC Specs you will exceed minimum regs for 99% of the events, Plenty more 6mm plate and stuff but if you build your cage to ALRC Specs you can pretty much take part in any event??? ALRC Regs have been about Donkeys and in keeping the motorsport as cheap as possible with regs that keeps it semi cheap without buying a trophy they arn't too bad.

I run Bronco track edge which was an excellent all round tyre but bronco remoulds were carp. Insa are doing them now and I'll have them in a heart beat if they did them in a decent size

Locker simples! Locker for go, Articulation for show.

So your saying that ALRC idnt MSa regs?

I'd rarther a Blueband cage that'll take knocks. Seen a few CDS cages deform badly enough for them to be told to go home and rebuild the cage whereas blueband cage has taken serious knocks and no hit of deformation. If i was racing out and out weight is a consideration and hitting stuff is to be avoided then CDS but for trials and a bit of racing Blueband all the way the guys face when he was told cage is bent go home and fix it mde my mind up there and then after 2 Blueband cages hit the same tree and bounced around it for a clear and the CDS took what looked like a far less hard a knock and it deformed the main hoop.

I've had a leatherman Crunch since 2004. I have taken it all over the world from Afghanistan to Germany and its been the best damn thing I've ever bought!

Is that LR Jack taking them?? I have some Roof bars for him aswell he is leaving a week late now I believe