LandyManLuke

Yup it can, as long as you have/get an alternator with a W terminal. you will need a rev counter 'suitable for diesels' or 'alternator driven', I have one from the VDO vision range.

Quite possibly to make a can crusher, we've got about 500 beer cans hanging around.. Possibly because i might make a pneumatic clamp for the pillar drill. But mostly, simply because i want to.

Well i couldn't find anything for less than thirty quid, so i made one from bits and piece i had lying around. One of the valves is not opening properly. I might be able to get a working washing machine valve and swap my 12v coil onto it.

See here It's fallen by the way-side recently, I've been too busy. I should get some time on it this week, hopefully I'll get the roof mostly finished.

I've got one of those hoists. I use it for pulling the rr into the garage, my drive has a gradient that means 3 of use can't push a vehicle in. The hoist needs the supplied pulley to give 2:1, it struggles on a 1:1 pull. The hand switch is on a pretty short lead. It has been worth its weight in gold though. I might buy a spare.

24v is do-able, I've also got some washing machine valves with 12v coils, so i can make them up as a 5/2. Ideally I'd like something more compact, I shall have a look at AirTechnics. Cheers Luke

I'm after a cheap 5/2 pneumatic valve, does anyone have any ideas on suppliers? my research so far has yielded valves with a £70 - £80 price tag, which is far too much for what i'm doing. Ebay sometimes has stuff like this, but seems a bit dried up at the moment. Cheers Luke

Is there any requirement from any of the rule-setting associations to have a single piece front hoop?

Heath Robinson would be proud!

Covering it up will not make it go away, it'll just continue to rust. If it's more than surface rust that can't be cleaned back and painted, it needs cutting out and replacing to do a proper job.

push in fittings are pretty good generally. they're used on pneumatics quite happily at ~100psi.

Yup I'd go for 255/85R16, they're what i have fitted and I find it a good size.

td5

The regulator quite possibly isn't a replaceable part on your alternator. it depends what it model is.

75 quid to replace a regulator that costs a tenner? gulp!! It does depend on your alternator i suppose, but an A127 alternator has a removable brush/regulator pack that's pretty easy to change.

four wheel drive isn't four wheel drive if one wheel looses traction. With a standard landrover, and an open centre diff, losing grip at one wheel will stop you moving. If you lock the centre diff, you still need traction on both wheels of one axle. if you lose traction on one wheel of each axle you will be stuck again.

If the connector plugs into wires coming from the brake pads it's for a brake wear warning light. ABS sensors are in the swivel, aimed at the CV. There'd also be an ABS block sat under the bonnet, if you have ABS. I'm guessing the handbrake is on, which works on the back prop and axle .... 1/8 of a turn sounds normal. play can come from any of those areas, though remember wear after the diff is going to feel like its 3.54 times worse if you're feeling it through the prop.

Just look in the yellow pages, there'll be someone local.

Look at the photo i posted. the chassis is of uniform cross section between the radius arm mounts. That's the simplest area to cut in to and weld back together, as long as you don't interfere with the gearbox mounts.

Quite a bit of 'straight bit' to choose from.

Weld away then. Fab up your own replacement sections, or buy them, like this one and this one. Also available here

Do you mean the dumb irons? the bits the bumper bolts to? Or The front outriggers that the bulkhead sits directly above, and is bolted to either side? Both are replaceable/repairable, the main expense will be a welder's labour.

I'm glad Night_train's baby will live on! Any chance of some recent pictures?

Apologies, i thought you were refering to the 'side mounted post jack'.

indeedy