LandyManLuke

Yup, my mistake, my photo must have been taken before I checked my own wiring FWIW, today i lifted the bonnet to double check, and realised my mistake!

I said in an earlier post, your diagram shows you using the hotter switch of the two. I'm using the cooler switch, and it works fine.

Agreed, if the engine is at standard temp, and the rad had sufficient teperature difference across it, the fan shouldn't be on, as it isn't needed.

235/75 isn't tall. 235/85 sound like a better bet.

Interesting, i wonder how price compares. the one big downer of spools was the lack of multiple operating points.

The three pins are a common, and two temperature ranges. i am using the lower range. If you use an on-off-on switch, you have three options to feed the relay with - a permanent 12v, nothing, and 12v via the 'stat. if you do all of this on the trigger side of the relay, it's all low current and much easier to wire, leaving just the relay and fan with heavy wiring. I found a mondeo fan blows a 20A easily on start up (inductive load), mine's currently running on two 20A in parallel (40A), until i get round to replacing them. I found that once started, the fan will run quite happily on 20A.

and only gives you on/off control. I quite fancy the full proportional control a spool valve gives. Also, it's less complicated components in the system.

That's a rather tasty drum I'm planning on just having three spool valves, with relatively short levers, so it'd be possible to use two at a time, though i think the chance of using them simultanously would be slim, i think my brain, and co driver, would struggle to keep up. the third spool will be for a PTO type setup, so possibly a hydraulic ram/jack, or a remote slave set of valves, for a log splitter perhaps (not for comps , multi-functional use of hydraulics )

If you test the electrical side of things, you've got to carefully consider how the bulb might fail, and the possibility of false readings. the only accurate solution would be some sort of optical sensor, set up to accomodate and discount daylight. Ultimately, You've got to wonder why go to the hassle? A seperate test circuit would require you to remember to press the button, or yet more circuitry to test the lights automatically before letting you switch them on.

You can, if you want to waste the investment you've just made in a winch. Earthing through the chassis will seriously lower the performance of the winch.

why not use two spool valves, then you can use both winches together, if you need to. Are you worried about not being able to have the pump in gear when in reverse?

Your wiring diagram looks a little strange. I would use the 'stat and override to feed the relay, rather than having the 'stat and relay in parallel. I reckon you'll struggle to get the 'stat to switch in, you'll need to have the engine running at high revs for quite a while to get it hot enough. My stat only switches when the engine has been loaded (hills/motorway) and then air flow is reduced, like stopping at services, traffic lights etc. Also, it looks like you're using the high range switch, not the low range.

You could put a relay in the supply to the inverter, but it'd have to be pretty beefy - depending on your inverter. a 600w inverter is going to draw atleast 50A, for example. It's worth checking though, if the inverter has a low voltage shut down, it may well have, to prevent accidental discharge of the battery.

You can't run the main and tell-tale lights in series, that won't work. Also, you cant run anything off an 'earth' if there is still a direct path to earth, all the current will take the path of least resistance, and avoid the LEDs completely. In theory, you could add a high power (rated to the lights), extremely low value resistor in series, and test for a PD across that. Or, add a light sensor to each lense and use that.

I'm happy for you to have a root around the source code, but i make no claims to being a 'tidy' programmer! If you'd like me to tidy it up, or make it a bit easier to follow i'll happily do so, it's been a work in progress for about 4 years now.

It'd be good to consolidate some decent information in one place. My write up here

Or like something from Toys'R'Us..

post 97 license is simply 750 KG, or total trailer and load weight less than unladen weight of towing vehicle, and total train weight less than 3500. I don't know weights for the pag, but i'm pretty sure the maths won't be in your favour. I've got the same problem, looking at a trailer test before i can tow the RR anywhere.

apologies if any of this has been mentioned before, i only skim read the post. hopefully different details/depth will be helpful. National Luna et al are still a relay that gets closed,like Si's relay, the box just decides when that happens, like a VSR. there is nothing intelligent about them at all. They look at the voltage, and close and open the contacts when the batteries reach certain levels. With, Si's relay, a VSR, and a 'national luna' style charger, once the batteries are joined they act as one, in terms of both charging and drains. they will remain acting as one until the relay is opened. Proper 'intelligent controllers' control the voltage and current going to each battery independantly, quite often by actually controlling the alternator its self. they including cycling programmes to 'service' each battery. they are fitted mainly to boats and are proper money - often ££££. The 0.7v drop across diodes means the batteries will never get properly charged with a standard 'machine sensed' alternator. fitting a 'battery sensed' alternator would allow the alternator to compensate for the voltage drop between it and the batteries.

seems an awful lot of hassle when you can buy a bare milemarker for ~£350 and have the right gearing, that will take the power of the hydraulic motor, and flog the 8274 to pay for a part of the hydraulic installation.

Portamigs get overlooked because A) They're relatively unheard of. B) They are no-nonsense - sheet metal case, no graphics, no plastic moulding, no LEDs. C) There's no bolt-on Neon or Spinners kit (currently) available. What you get for your money is (as already has been said) a british built welder with decent components (wire feed motor is akin to a coke can) and very good service. They come with a euro torch, regulator, and if Steve is feeling nice, gloves, spare tips, shrouds etc (ok they're not expensive, not the point). I not an experienced welder, i've taught myself, and i'm still learning (a lot), but the portamig is the nicest mig i've used so far.

If you plan on grinding/welding it, there's emptying/purging procedures to follow. something along the lines of draining it, leaving it to properly 'dry out' and then purging with inert gas. someone else has probably got better advice though. The other option would be to make the false floor thick/high enough so the filler sits flush, in a hole in the floor, though that would contradict the whole cabin seperation idea.

Have a gander at www.mig-welding.co.uk. I have a portamig 215, 565 inc vat and delivery. they do larger and smaller welders too. A no frills, well built welder using decent components.

The park switch is probably broken. It's a common fault, about a fiver for a new one, its mounted on the motor itself, under the LHS of the dash. Check for continuity across the heating element with a multimeter.

Yup i can see it being useful in that way. M girlfriend bought me my vice, what is it with girlfriends and vices?