LandyManLuke

And you've kindly fitted a vice for pixies. very thoughtful.

yup, bead or walnut shell blasting will work fine on the ally i reckon.

stayed on whilst you were driving, or stayed on even when you'd turned the ignition off? If it's the former, a new regulator will probably sort you out, archive post here if it's the latter, it's probably a diode, which isn't so easy to DIY fix.

OK, my lift pump broke, the engine ran as i described. Maybe it broke such that it was restricting flow. In fact it did, there was suction on my finger held over the drain hole on the filter (tap removed) I got home with a fuel can tied to the wing mirror. I ran out of fuel (~3L cereal tub as fuel can) many times, the injection pump self primed fine every time, as you'd expect it to, being gravity (via syphon) fed, in this lash up. Any fuel restriction is going to limit engine performance, whether that restriction is in the filter, lift pump, fuel lines or tank pick up.

Normally, if the lift pump fails, the engine will run at tick over but die as soon as much throttle is applied.

Yup, I've got Branston Beans on the front, and the slightly less controversial Heinz Beanz on the back. I like the balance that set up gives.

They're not expensive new.

I definitely think you need the pit to be 'T' shaped, for taking a false floor and jacking, as mentioned above. I reckon it's better to be too deep than too shallow, you can always have something to stand on to lift you up a bit, going lower would be a lot harder once you've laid a floor.

Yup, B&Q are part of the Kingfisher Group, as are Screwfix.

Didn't catch the free-wheeling hubs bits then?

no soap. We clean the running rigging off the boat in the washing machine, cold cycle, no soap. Rinse any grit off first, else it'll act as an abrasive in the machine.

I've got one, it's properly siezed so it's not much use. I've asked before and someone knew who made it. I can take some pictures if you like?

Bottle jack for me too, I made a base that spreads the load and also lifts the jack 3" or so, it means i 've got plenty of lift. I don't see the point of carrying a hi-lift day-to-day, they're large and cumbersome and you've got to lift the vehicle off the springs first before you can change a tyre etc.

Interesting, wonder who's making them for ScrapIron now.

Or climbing/sailing 'string', even cheaper! Mine were lashed in as an emergency when they first started popping out. the lashings have been there for about 2 years now, i've never got round to sorting them out.

Speak to WVA Holdings/Safari-quip, they probably make them for scrapiron, and will be cheaper i reckon.

For the purposes of this thread, ignore the black box, its a PC-Relay interface. Hence the parallel cable on the left hand side. Yes you could make a bus bar, or Durite et al stock different versions, stud, screw,4,6,8,10,12 etc. you can get bus bars intended for +ve use, they come with a shield that fixes over the connections. The negative bus bar i have is insulated from the bulkhead, its base plate is plastic. It's where it is because the battery box has two batteries in it, and the bulkhead is higher and thus (most of the time) drier.

Bus bars are a nice way of doing it, even if they're not cheap. i like them. You can see my -ve bus bar in this picture

You didn't take them back to the battery then? It really is worth doing so.

Deviating slightly, what are the options for mounting an oil cooler? I'm planning on moving my rad to get it out of the carp, and I'll need a new oil cooler to replace the standard RR item that i took off. Putting it near where the rad would have been seems a bit pointless, as it'll get full of carp. I'm guessing the oil pump won't like pumping oil to the back and back again?

The bits from inside the cab weigh loads, i removed them from my RRC.

I prefer to add all my own wiring direct from the battery, rather than hacking in to LR wiring. A circuit like this is suitable if you want the lights to be tied into your main beam, with an override switch.

Every one has their preference. I dropped the boxes. didn't have an engine crane so got creative with some scaffold.

Aaahh. Bugger.

What engine is in the vehicle? If it's at tdi, there's only the fuel solenoid and possibly the starter solenoid that need looking at.