callum

funnily enough i took out the one that i sold you a few weeks ago and replaced it with a different splined one that i had bought on here about a week before that. has to come out engine bay side. its mostly obvious what nees to come out in the engine bay, disconnect the column at the bottomand move it out of the way, undo bots attaching it to bottom, undo bolts attaching it to bulkhead plate at top. inside you need to take the clocks off, undo it from the hook it hangs from on the bulkhead, steering wheel off, column cowl off, stalks and ignition etc off (i forgot about this part and wondered why it wouldn't move). it should now be loose. to withdraw you need to turn it through 90 degrees so the brakcet it hangs from in the car can pass through an egg shaped hole in the bulkhead. at this point you'll find that its an awful squeeze to turn this bracket through 90 degrees as the dashboard is kind of in the way, but persevere. unfortunately you'll also discover that whilst you might think that you know better than the haynes manual and fully belive you can now haul it out without disturbing other stuff that you are wrong. alas master cylinder has to come off and be carefully laid out the way, servo has to be unbolted from the inside footwell and moved out of the way. at that point a final heave and you should get it out. i would seriously recommend 2 people are involved in this job due to it taking place inside and outside of the car. mayeb your wiring is very neat behind the instruments, mine involves lots of extra things coming and going as such the column needs to be carefully guided out to prevent the hanging bracket snaging on any wires. whilst one is guiding its path, someone needs to be in the engine bay pulling ad turning it to get it out. hope that helps a bit, its outlined pretty well in the haynes manual and if you don't think you know best like i did it shouldn't take too long. removing and replacing probably took me about 4-5 hours with an hour's worth of help to guide the column from inside the car. a lot of time is spent making sure it doesn't snag and then fiddling with the bulkhead plate to get the new one back in. i spent a subsequent day fettling things to make them fit, but that was all interior work and because i dont have standard stalks and my dash sits about 10mm away from the bulkhead so trim needed sorting. i don't expect you will have to do that so it should be quick to reassemble.

larger capacity will make cooling easier. i assume the 6bt has an external cooler and no doubt a very large one gong by the size of everything else on the engine, so more oil capacity will allow it to be cooled more easily. might be best to find out what the applicatoins of the different sumps are to help guide you. may be a bit of difference between static power unit and a dodge ram or may be 2 different ages of dodge ram. i suppose pirate may provide you with more answers from folk who run 6bt's

have tried there alas it does not list the temperature range or the thread size, only the compatability. as this is not going into something OE i am unable to use that sort of cross referencing. once i have found the switch i am looking for, i shall be able to use that to find out where it came from.

i think i suck at searching. i'm looking for a list of leccy fan switches and need to find out the thread size and temperature range. i recall a list of intermotor switches appearing at some stage, but i cant find it in the tech archive or doing a search. on the off chance that someone actualy remembers switches, i need the switch to kick in at about 100degrees and drop off at 88-ish. thread size not too much of an issue yet.

i think by backlit he means through lit. i.e light is provided through the numbers rather than emitting from a ring around the edge of the dial like on most modern cars (and td5's)

i'm sure its not just for me, i think there are plenty of closet (and not so closet) jap fans on here. i just really like what your doing and am enjoying following this build. i think you are following a path not many have travelled down before. with patrols getting old and crusty these days and rangies not being blessed with teh finest running gear from the factory, this seems like a good solution. here's some reading for you now that things seem to be moving along http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=132576 should you at any point not think you have anough power. and if you can manage through that, if you don't think your front end is quite flexible enough http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=117558 they have started making repalcements for the standard arms, so seeing as you are now using thie nisssan arms you could take advantage of this. not sure how off road you are aiming your creation to be. keep it up

i belive its 60 series front and 80 rear. or some combination along those lines. go take a look at pirate and there wil be more there.

seems they put those axles on the 4x4 versions as well. i wonder what their designation is and if they're 8.5" hypoids.

few more pics from earlier on i think

thanks for the help. i think i'll give the mapp gas a bash and see how that does heating flat bar. hopefully it will be all i need, the price is somewhat appealing.

my little tamar gas blowtorch from b&q has performed sterling service over the last few years melting and heating small things and bits of plastic. it has not risen so admirably to the task of heating steel alas, which would be handy for bending it. what's the next (not too expensive) step up between these little blow torches and cutting gear? not too big would also be handy. tis getting increasingly difficult to maintain a working space in a small single garage with too many tools and bikes and bits of car.

its probably in your insurance documentation that you should not admit fault in the event of an accident. You fill out the forms saying what happened and their legal folks decide who was to blame etc. Meanwhile, you get on with life.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1986-TOYOTA-HI-LUX-4...1QQcmdZViewItem interesting bit of weight saving.

good to see it progressing, keep up the good work

tis a perentie, but what is the front axle? presumo the stock rover one could not be widened with sufficient ease.

to go away a bit, but still on the subject of suspension, what are the drawbacks of splitting the links either side of the axle i.e bottom back and top front. i finally found some auverland suspension pics, looks like an interesting setup up front assuming your engine was mounted far back enough and your setttering box was moved outboard, could a land rover run this setup up front? pics should be reasonably self explanatory however if anyone wants to add further explanation of how it works, feel free pics from this thread on difflock http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?p=...2cf865b61a5629d

?

what has 5 studs tubed axle cases and is not land rover......? hmm 'yotas come in 5 stud ,but not that casing, don't know about jeeps...

that's why NAS 110's had external cages. failed roll over tests for the US market. perhaps representative of a more litigious society. my advice ouwld be to avoid crashing your defender, i expect it would hurt lots.

they probably do. many such things are loss leaders to get you into the shop so you buy other stuff whilst you're there.

http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/reifendirekt....nstig=&m_s= might work, search mytyres.co.uk they're £146 a corner there...ouch might have to get on the dog and bone to yokohama or some other tyre retailers. google search didn't take long to end up back at this thread. 285's are cool on 7" rims. i've seen them on a few occasions on wolf rims which are 6.5". if you look for ihana.com or something to that effect, they ran around south america for 20000 odd miles in a 110 shod with bfg muds in 285 size on wolf rims. i think the tyres eventually wore out or something. i don't really recall. pinched tyres are not so good fo hadcore road handling, but i've neverhad any issues. stops from dingin' the rims i suppose. also avoids that 80's vitara look

it looked like that in some pictures you've posted. that being the case i take my hat off to you. i whinge about working on a driveway in the rain and indeed snow recently, but at least i am able to use a small garage to make stuff in and keep tools. i only have to go outside when working on large things or things which are attached or to be attached to the car. building that vehicle outside on a public highway is quite a feat.

my 285/75's are marked as 33 12.50r16's. they are only 285 wide and have survived several thousand miles on 7" rims.

the pattern originated with yokohama, i think they just call it the MT. so a yokohama dealer will be able to ge them for you. i expect you'll be into bfg money as they are not remoulds, but perhaps you will get a longer life out of them as a result. i have the same tyres as you on a 110 and they have proved excellent both on and off road. my only gripe with them has been their longevity. not quite in the same league as bfg et al. they do, however cost much less. largest yoko imports are 33's in 33 12.50 r15 or 285/75 r16. in the states they go up to 35's. another similar tread is the maxxis trepador. i don't know if they're available here and they may only be made in bigger sizes. you could ask around. have you tried sowden tyres? that's who i got my 'machos' (i won't be sad to see that name go, the ammount of ribbing i have had for my 'macho gayriders'...) from. if you get yokos, be sure to update on their wear characteristics. that's the only gipe i have with the machos, otherwise i consider them an excellent tread design and would be happy to pay the extra for longer lasting ones.

have found that working on a very very rusty isuzu and also a newer nissan. no matter how old or rusty the cars or bots are they dont seem to seize. they are very stiff, one crack and then they come off fine. even very rusty exhaust studs on the nissan, which needed heat and a rattle gun to come off did not snap and i was able to use them again. land rover bolts seem quite willing to seize, round or snap. no sure what the difference ism maybe different steel or maybe some sort of coppaslip.