callum

it has this wonderful thing called 'potential' that a rover axle does not possess. once you have upgraded the shafts as a weak point in a rover axle, you are left with the diff, which is now your weak point and within the rover axle casing there's not an enormous amount you can do about it. the upgrade path with a salisbury has much more potential due to its shared lineage with the dana 60 and 70 axles, meaning its possible to upgrade to 35 spline 1.5" shafts as per its dana bretheren. once you have done that, you still have a mighty strong diff with a 10.5" crownwheel and the potential to use more different diff ratios than you can shake a stick at. which all in all, is jolly good...if only the dollar would fall again. oh and you can also get a transparent diff cover...did i hear someone mention bling?

not sure how viable this is as you mention you carry out work in a car park...if you have a space inside to do work, like a shed or small garage, not the dining room table, you could feasibly buy another drum braked salisbury and follow diesle jim's conversion guide. then it is just a matter of bolting it up as would be the case buying a complete disc braked axle.

bit too late now, but depending on what your engine mount position is, andy at engineconversions.co.uk sells a new downpipe which connects isuzu engine to land rover mid sectiondropping down and then shifting to the other side of the chassis infront of the gearbox crossmember. its not the finest piece of flow engineering and i eventually heated mine and reformed it a bit to tuck the exhaust system out of the way, but if does save a bit of hassle. i think mine cost about £70, which is a lot compared to a land rover exhaust system, but it saved a lot of time. i'll use it as a template in a while to get one made with better bends at some point. i think i'll also add a flexi joint as i believe that lack of free movement in the exhaust is causing an annoying drne at 3000 rpm. unfotunately that's a fairly ideal rpm to sit at on motorway and a roads. i think you'll get a better flowing exhaust making yor own though, so its probably worthwhile. i'd take the opportunity to make sure you can tuck your exhaust up out of the way and ensure it has adequate movement to prevent annoying noise.

how big is the hole? when repairing a bit of my footwell i just cut out the rusty part and bolted in a new piece. is a rust hole a rust hole if its a hole you cut out?

keep those progress pics coming. looking better, slowly but surely. sometimes think i might more excited by the progress than you, especially as viewing pictures of someone else's work doesn't involve shouting and swearing and throwing spanners when somethign doesn't fit or resolving a problem in one area raises another conflict somewhere else. think you might need a new custom carpet though...

its really easy, buy 2 of these http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-...photo/fbb8u.jpg then methodically snip off your crappy glass fuse holders and put female blade cimps on the ends of the wires. plug back in to your new fuse blocks, add the appropriate fuses and then fix into the metal plate that you removed the old fuse holders from. you'll need to enlarge the hole in it to fit, but that's not hard. not sure what the supposed difficulty is, this was with an ex mod 110 and solved the funny electrical problems i had, the source of which was the corroded glass fuse holders. just take your time and take notes as you do it so everything gets plugged in to the correct place. did it maybe 5 years ago and not a problem since.

what i meant was, i'll be damned if i know why they went back to rover ones. 2002 onwards i think, must have been some sort of irrational behaviour fever going round solihull. if you have also contracted this fever, you will need a post 2002 110 rear prop (because of the difference in diff nose length) and to swap over the spring seats to the larger 110 type. might also want to get hold of a reasonable supply of axle spares. otherwise, jsut convert what you have. even east coast rover seem to do the conversion to drum braked 110 axles.

there's a reason land rover had to put salisbury axles in the back of long wheelbase models instead of rover ones. i'll be damned if i know why they went back to them again though....

sorry i realised i got my wires crossed and mixed up 2 threads, so the reply i posted was not relevant. thanks for getting rid of it for me ralph, i'm afraid i couldn't find the post delete button so deleting the content was the best i could do. Just thought i would explain to JST, so this post can be filed in the bin in a wee while. apologies for the confusion.

i recall coming across the figure of 61", which seems to go with what's above. unfortunately i was looking for 60 series widths at the time so i can't be 100% sure whether i have quoted the land rover width or the toyota one. i think that's the land rover one though.

i'm guessing he actually means 285/75 r16, which is about 33" and fine on a defender. might need to trim the arches at the edges slightly but fits on with no lift. they will look a bit pinched on a 6.5" wide wolf rim, but 50000km touring south america by these guys http://www.ihana.com/ suggests that they will be ok. i run that size on 7" rims and have not encountered any problems. with wolf rims, you will lose lock by fitting wider tyres without th offset offfered by aftermarket wheels.

some maybe silly questions... how does one fit a 9" crownwheel in a case designed for an 8.5" one. is there enough slack or is it real tight? is the crown wheel reverse cut a-la landcruiser to get high pinion front?

yeah, would be interested to know about the transit alternator. in saying that, i bought (by mistake) a brand new vacuum pump for £40. i phoned up an independend specialist trying to buy the oil feed line for it and they misunderstood and sold me the vaccum pump. i dedcided just to keep it as a spare and needless to say my vacuum pump is showing no signs of failure and its still sitting in its packaging. you can also just get a replacement alternator from a trooper in a scrappies. unless they are particularly astute they won't know to charge you extra for the pump piggy backed to it. the expensive parts for isuzus are odd and uncommon things as you have to get these from the dealer (either isuzu or vauxhall). common stuff you can get from milners or ebay. and then there's always the second hand option for bits. from my experience the isuzu engine is preferable to a land rover tdi, but i certainly wouldn't go to the effort of changing out a working tdi for an isuzu 2.8

they do it in a few shades of grey too as it happens. i have that colour lining my rear load bed. it stayed shiny because its inside.

i'm afraid that its not too complicated, its just a bedliner that you can apply yourself without spray equipment. http://www.protectakote.co.uk/bedliner.htm this be the stuff, seems my spelling sucks. its got granules of polyurethane in it to make it a grippy surface. prep can be either by xylene or hot soapy water. being a cheapskate i used a die grinder with wire wheel to roughen up the surface f the wing tops, washed them with mr muscle and then applied a special metals primer from b&q. once this was on they needed a few coats of protectakote rollered on and job was a goodun. looks might be divisive, but i've never had anyone comment on them so i don't know. ill try and take some pics of them. its glossy colour lasted only a few weeks and nowit is a matt black whick i rather prefer. if shiny's your thing, then you can get u-v stable stuff. anyway it makes them not look like chequerplate, just a black high grip surface, which is kind of what i was after, the wings being a useful place to stand, but a nasty place to fall off.

add some protektacote to them instead, makesthem look less like chequerplate and also adds a bit of grip to them. this concealer has been on mine for a few months now and is holding up well. won't scratch like paint either.

i looked into this a while ago and eventually decided just to go with normal intercooler. i was looking at a legacy charge cooler as one was available. i had read as a rule of thumb (which may be rubbish, but i have no way of knowing) that by area charge cooling is 4x more efficient than intercooling as water is rather good at getting rid of heat. the issue here was that the cooling area inside the legacy charge cooler was quite small and less than 1/4 of the size of intercooler i had. it would also proabbly have had to sit on top of the engine, which is cool for a boxer, but i would have probably had to cut a hole in the bonnet. also, sitting on top of a hot engine is not brilliant. you should be able to get more cooling out of a charge cooler and the proximity to inlet and turbo should reduce lag quite a bit. i think they really come into their own when you have a rear engined car and its not practical to run turbo hoses the length of the car or in drag racing where you can cool the water to less than ambient temperature before the race, thereby gaining superior cooling than would be possible with an air to air intercooler. i think intercooling is easier, hence why you hardly see any charge cooled cars, but i wouldn't discount it as an option if you are willing to experiment a bit or have an unusual packaging situation that means you can't use a normal air-air intercooler. i don't think in your situation you need a charge cooler, but that's not to say you shouldn't give it a try.

its a question that comes up really often, might be worth sticking this post in the tech archive so folk can be pointed in its direction

is it not 1/2" on the rad? it is on a 2.5 n/a certainly. i jus use a dowty washer like this http://www.racingvincent.co.uk/14%20Norton...%20Sale/B66.jpg i would say you could get said washer and 1/2" bsp brass blanking plug at your local b&q, however i don't even think they have a b&q in argentina, so your local plumbing place then, whatever that may be...

i'd probably have to disagree with that. a second hand sals will be cheaper, hell you might even get one for free, and unlike a rover axle is not a dead end street for upgrading. if you find yourself breaking the sals you still have the dana 60/70 internals route to go. with a rover axle you're ultimately bound by a spiral bevel diff which will always be your weak link.

depends if you can get the front one too. as they're different width and different stud pattern to normal rover axles

you'd be better getting blingsteins from across the water. would have been even better a few months ago mind, but they are still a load cheaper. not sure why they're so much cheaper, australians import them from the usa too.

nice pictures, looks like you had quite a few friends out.

a few years ago i just scrapped a trooper myself. i didn't even have the v5 i just wrote to the dvla informing them that the vehicle had been scrapped and gave them the details.

after a lengthy pirate search i found the link to cheap custom application blingsteins again http://store.topguncustomz.com/storefrontp...amp;i=235827365 not a bad price for a pair. they sell pin to eye converters too, but i cant find them on the page. i think they wre about $25, but to be honest would not be difficult to make yourself. you're adding length with the converters though, so best to keep an eye on the overal length or/and make sure you get the short body versions.