callum

anyone know what the difference is between n/a, 200tdi and 300tdi exhausts. i would like to replace my centre section with one of paddock's straight through pipes. i fear my n/a exhaust is of different fitment to either tdi ones and maybe even of different diameter. so before i go wasting some money on one, does anyone know of any differences?

not sure if it is similar, i have an annoying drone at certain rpm's most annoying at almost exactly 3000rpm (which annoyingly is about 70mph) and also not quite so annoying at 2000 rpm, but still makes cabin noise significantly higher than at any other rpm. beyond 3000rpm it goes quieter again. unlike you i've done sod all to find out what is causing it, i'll be interested if you find out anything. my suspicions surround the exhaust as it feels like if comes from between somewhere between the two seats, but i don't really know.

hmm.....interesting, my timing belt is due for a change soon. any idea of what is required to switch from timing belt to timing gears? are they noisy in operation?

hummers use portals and independent supension dont they?

you have a funny timing case cover. hae you one of the elusive 4jb1's with timing gears instead of belt? is yours out of a trooper?

been waiting for an update on this. now i see the shell free of the chassis, i did read in a landie magazine (LRW), probably about 10 years ago now, of someone rebuilding an early 2 door who, once he had sorted out and repaired the shell, sent it for galvanising. i would think that would make your range rover incredibly long lived...and shiny. You're probably not ready to look at such stuff yet, i imagine there is a great deal of fettling still to be done to the body to get everything to fit, but it might be worth considering when the time comes. will save you having to weld the footwells and inner wings in 10 years time. zinc is also closer, i think, than steel to ally in the galvanic series, so there would be less hassle with aluminium panels rotting out too. when you're next in the garage...any chance of some pics of your front axle setup please. interested to know how you have mated the panhard and drag link and also how you have your spring seats positioned. keep the updates coming callum

try and take a look at one. take a look underneath as well. with a 110, underneath you have for hitting an axle radius arm then a great big length of chassis rail. chassis rail depth is much greater on a 110 allowing everything to be stuffed up out of the way. so when you have to slide the fat belly over something it can just slide on the rails. under an 80 you have a bunch of bash plates which have to protect the running gear. i did buy a cheap primera though for driving long distances as i can't be bothered with the wind noise and 80 top speed of a land rover. been threatening to buy a patrol or cruiser ever since i got the land rover 6 years ago. amusingly have come over here after reading your bit on itocuk about the trooper. what was the major gripe? i hat to cut a hole in the floor of the trooper to get at the last two bellhousing bolts when i took the engine out to put in my land rover, but only because it was going for scrap. rest of it was not much more difficult than getting the engine out of the land rover. granted it was a mk1 with fewer ancilliaries though. took 3 of us an hour and a bit to get it out on a gravel drive, although it would have taken considerably longer with 1 person and being careful not to scratch the paint. maybe you are just really quick when removing a landie engine by comparison.

an adaptor ring and any land rover gearbox of your choice. www.engineconversions.co.uk

heres an isuzu 4jb1 in a defender. you'll find the engine in rodeos and jackaroos over by you. its a bit more over to the left than to the right. downpipe exits straight down from the turbo and remains inside the right chassis leg. you'll know the spaceing of lad rover chassis legs so that might help size it.

thanks for the info, looks like a good price for the combo. maybe need to get ordering. anyone fancy a nice racetech boost gauge? nice and clear and from their expensive range...light use... did you order a metric or imperial face and what size of probe did you opt for?

110 does have bar across, but you have to cut it out before full reassembly. i think it is to prevent distortion in transit/fitting. its only tack welded on. however...body mounts are diferent. normally with a 110 one you will not get the body mounts. 90' have wee ones as shown in the pic, 110's have longer ones further up towards t'other end of chassis, so you have to cut off then weld back to the new crossmember 1 leg of each body support. think carefully about your cable and fuel line routing before finally fixing the new on into place otherwise they can cause headaches. if you have the time/equipment, take time to fully weld all the seams and blank off as many of the rust traps as you can. the crossmembers are a carp design and i can't believe they are still made in this way...can't belive people keep buying new defenders.

bcb offroad made them, but it appears they have ceased to be. might be worth asking on pirate what became of them and if anyone else took up their machining.

http://www.mcnallyelectronics.com/boostegt.html this one is quite handy as it combines boost and egt and as it fits in 1 52mm hole it keeps stuff looking stock. it is designed for vw tdi's though and illuminates blue. its also in imperial measurements although maybe they have a celcius one now. $99 for the gauge and $30-$40 for each attachment ( 2 required) enormous thread concerning it http://65.110.12.166/showthread.php?t=155230 madman gauge will have lot more in it though i came across another egt only digital one, but i can't remember what it was. it was quite cheap though.

if its a 3300 its most likely the sd33 which was found in early eighties nissan patrols. and also international harvesters i believe...and maybe boats too. have a google search and see if the images look the same.

don't worry, they all buy toyotas now anyway

trepadors are radial though i'm sure. i don't know if they are imported here yet or not though.

i'm afraid you have set yourself up for being bombarded with lots of questions, i'll try and minimise them. sounds like you've had a fair few patrols i'd be interested to konw why you've decided to combine the two vehicles to create what, in my opinion, will be a great truck, but will require a lot of work to put together. regarding the diff ratios i was sure diesel y60 was 4.10:1, but reading that thread on outerlimits, it seems they are 4.11:1. 3.9*'s are from the petrol tb42's i belive and the 4.3's came in the commercial gq's that we didn't get here, chassis cabs and traybacks. they also came with an enormous rear diff. i forget its number, but again, there wont be any on these shores. in any case, seeing as you are using the complete drivetrain i can't imagine it concerns you whilst on the subject of diffs, are the diffs front to rear interchangeable or are they different? i cant think in my head which way things are turning etc. sounds like a lot of work at the back. i had been considering running gq or gu front and land rover salisbury at the back. it would require paying someone to whittle some hub adaptors from land rover 5 to jap 6 stud (i think there are some american manufacturers of these) and also procuring a dana 60 ring and pinion to match the diff ratios. i have read that there is a 50mm difference in track with between the two , which would mean that with spacers they should line up ok. that would solve alignment issues with the lt-230 as i don't have the skill or equipment to be welding axle cases. again having gone for the whole patrol drivetrain, you are sorted here. good luck getting the engine in, keep us posted.

sounds like a sticky slave to me. i spent the day on my back in the snow at the beginning of the month and was convinced my clutch for had punched through. turned out it was just the slave sticky from not having been used much. if you can push the rod in until it meets stiff resistance so it protrudes about 10mm from the housing and pull it about 50mm out, the clutch fork should be ok. my clutch pedal had absolutely no resistance at this point, as if it wasn't connected to anything and i couldn't see any fluid loss. take the slave out and on the bench visually check its surfaces and seals then try pressure testing it with a bike pump to make sure it moves ok. i took mine out and made sure it was clean and working on the bench then put it back in to see if it was actually the problem. as the clutch then worked, it must have been the problem. had i known that was the problem i would have bought a new slave, but its all working now so i can't be bothered disassembling it to put a new slave in.

nice project should be best of both worlds when finished. i've heard that the td42 is quite difficult to squeeze into a rover. i'm not sure why it was, but by the sounds of it, its quite a tall engine. if you're using the patrol gearbox, that should prevent issues with drivline vibrations. it seems a lot of people put up with it for a while after doing it then eventually get hacked off with the idea and stick in a landcruiser axle at the back so the diff is offset oncemore i dont konw if there has been much success using fancy props to solve the issue. some good comparison pics there keep them coming, always nice to see things in pictoral form. i'm keeping my eyes open for a patrol front axle should one come up at the right price and those pics look promising. What are the details of the locker in your back axle, is it factory? through hearsay i had assumed patrols only came with open diffs or a rather nice lsd, but from what you're saying this is not the case. keep us posted, intresting project.

your dealer should be able to supply you one. there are two types, air con and non air con. non air con one covers the lower part of the grille panel and in my opinion looks pretty bad. the air con one is the same dimensions as the normal plastic defender grill, i.e no bit hanging down. i've seen some painted black and they look much better than in silver. price wise, i don't think they're especially cheap, but the real shocker is when you come to pay for the badge one them, something like £80 if i remember correctly. grill might be the same price. if you search maybe the lro forum, assuming it has decent archives you should come across some threads which may have better details on the price. don't have a part number for you though i'm afraid. if you can find a nice person with one, maybe you see if they will provide you with their vin so you can search for the part more easily. EDIT: looks like diesel jim has the part number for you there. if you take that to your local parts desk, perhaps they can tell you how much.

get yourself to an auction my friend and not a 4x4 auction, a commercials auction. if you're looking at 3k for an old tdi, then you're looking in the wrong places. plenty of utilities, local authority and commercial user 110 van's get sold each year. in that application there's little competition for land rover. unless a rover has been really well looked after or undergone some sot of restoration, at 188k, there's a lot of wee bits that will be coming to the end of their lives. same with any car. unless you know the car well, there's a fair bit of risk there. as i said, unless its well priced and been really well cared for, that's a lot of money for something which could leave you spending a lot of time lying underneath on your back in the cold. go with a critical eye pux, good luck.

putting aside whether or not the engine can take it, that's getting on for quite a lot of money for what is essentially a fairly old and fairly tired van. commercial landies, especially 110's are not in great demand and there's a fair number get sold on by fleet users so they dont attract the same money as csw's or 90's for which there seems to be a great demand. i think you're almost getting into td5 money at some auctions. unless keenly priced and with a record of having had a reaonable ammount of work done, at 188000 miles, i'd be inclined to look elsewhere.

never try and sue a poor man. you need to find a wealthy source if you want to sue.

i dont think 9.00's were ever attached to factory 90/110's or defenders and maybe not even from special vehicles. they appeared as standard on sas 110's, but i expect they were added by whoever did the conversion rather than by the factory so this doens't really help. ben, isuzurover was looking for a while to find out if any defenders had ever left the factory on 9.00 tyres, but i dont know where his search led. in australia they also have restrictions on what tyres sizes they can use vs. what the factory issued. if 9.00 tyres were issued from the factory, that would feasibly have allowed them to use up to 37" tyres without needing engineered. i'm not fuly conversant with aussie state regs regarding vehicle engineering. it might be worth visiting outerlimits4x4.com to see how they get by.

despite the rather limp output of my heater i've always found it demists very well. much better than modern cars even. i had thought about a heated screen when i got the car, but i've found it would not really be necessary. not sure why it demists so well and i'm not sure if all defenders do, but that is at least one good thing my ventilation system does. even if it doesn't do much to heat the cab.