callum

i had forgotten about ghetto beadlocks and don't quite have the energy to go searching for the original thread i read on pirate, but here's some http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=723263 for the price of some cheapo 8 spokes or modulars, might work as interim until you can afford some stazzies or the like. i'm afraid, however, i can't speak from personal experience of this. could be worth a trawl of old pirate posts to see how folk got on with it. i'm assuming, however, that proper beadlocks exist for a reason.

assuming its the same as with a 2.5 n/a radiator, the thread of the cap is 1/2" bsp.if you walk into screwfix or plumbers place you'll get a brass plug and dowty washer for about £1. no issues with stripped heads and no issues with dissimilar metals. i lie you have to buy two... http://www.screwfix.com/prods/66876/Plumbi...Plug-Pack-of-2# couldn't find the washer at screwfix, but you can see they're not expensive http://www.indanc.com/sealants_118.php however if you wanted super bling, or rather the money really was burning a hole in your pocket, you could spend more... https://www.expeditionexchange.com/brassplug/

if you have a place to keep it i think you should get it back. even if you cant work on it now at least it would be safe.

you'd probably be best making your own out of flat bar or a strip of sheet. for holding down pipes in my engine bay 54mm dia. i just made my own. bend a tab with a hammer in a vice and then carefully rolled the bar around the object to be clamped. as mine were holding pipes out in space i could tap the flat section for the tightening bolt to thread into. (...well i could have, but i mixed up my drill bit sizes and made the hole too big to tap so had to just use a nut instead)

its always the small jobs that take so long. my love of scrapyards leads me to sticking stuff on my land rovers from other cars which shouldn't be there and that takes sooo much longer than you first think. i can't imagine how long putting in the contents of a nissan patrol in the wrong body takes. those brakes look huge, i can see why people are pleased with braking improvement when they do a gq front axle swap on land rovers. anyway, keep at it, it should really be an ace thing when its complete.

bump any updates will or have you been cruising around in patrols of late?

is a lhd 90 tank not under the right hand seat in the car, thus making it a suitable part to fit in place of the tool box under the seat. i could be wrong though, perhaps someone can confirm

you sure you have the code correct, 4fb1 seems to be a 1.8 featured in the gemini if its a 3.9 i would think its a 4bd1, maybe the identification is a bit mucky. engine is pretty popular in australia where it was available from the factory in stage 1's and 110's. also used in the perentie. is it turbo or non turbo? in the uk i think the engine was only found in small isuzu trucks. there's even a bit of forum for them http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=16 no idea how much its worth really, suppose it depends on condition etc. i've seen them go on ebay for a reaosnable sum and if you have the adaptor and bos, that's half the battle for someone.

what type of locks do you have? the strikers diesel jim is offering you are different to the locks posted by 110 usa. the ones pictured ould use strikers like in eightots pics. the ones in diesel jim's pic are for the a different type of lock. the ones i describe above are early 110/military type (2 piece door), however there is a different type (usually in gold passivate finish) that goes with the strikers diesel jim has pictured. quite easy to confuse, even with my chassis no. my land rover dealer supplied the wrong ones. the gold passivate type lock/handles are about £15 and the millitary ones are circa £60 from your local dealer. having now looked at the pic of the doors you have, they're not 2 piece so i think those strikers jim has kindly offered will be correct for your application, making the drivel i typed above not very useful.

good grief you all worry so much do you have any idea what the safety margin on these things is...rather a lot. in this litigious age engineers hardly take any risk. regarding the insurance issue it would only be a problem if the wheels were responsible for any failure and assuming you inform your insurer, as the your insurance document will tell you you must do, it should be fine.

you could try a nissan patrol commercial. the RAC have them, but i've not seen any others in the uk. You can buy the commercial versions in the republic of ireland, or get a 2nd hand one from there, so maybe your nissan dealer could help you. to be honest when i see rusty 5 year old td5's sitting about i wonder why people are still happy to pay upwards of £20k for the things.

second hand i would think. the part has most likely been discontinued. i expect it would also cost a ridiculous ammount of money if you could get it from a land rover parts counter.

updates...woot http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=708183

i think its a change that came in with the 62 series. i dont think there are many 62's in britain, which is maybe why most are not full floaters. i certainly know japanese 62's had them as did north american market ones. whether or not it applied to all of them is a different matter. there was a kit available to convert between to fully floating. its probably worth visiting ih8mud.com if anyone is looking for one, there's probably also some coverage of 60 series axles in an f.a.q thread.

he said they were for hire if you fancy a shot http://www.isafoldtravel.is/tourpage2.asp?ID=266

my friend found some 07's when on holiday in iceland and took some photos for me. not really off road, but i thought you might like to see them anyway.

scrap yard. should have some luck there, they dont tend to die very often. i've also used this lot before, i imagine they'll have a second hand item on the shelf http://www.eastmidlandsisuzu.co.uk/

i have used this lot http://www.venairsport.co.uk/ which seems to be the same as the ebay link. good prices and quick delivery. they also carry a lot of stuff in stock so there's no waiting for bits to be made as with other places.

i beleive mr llama 4x4 just runs braided instead of pipes. could be someting to do withthe fact he sells the stuff though and has fairly easy access to it.

longfield don't seem to recommend over 39" for their stuff. the 80 series front would object to such large tyres, its only an 8" mini truck diff and reverse cut. reversing out of a hole, it would probably ping like a rover diff. the back is 9.5" (i think, or thereabouts) so is a bit stronger. best bet from the toyota stable is the 60 series i think, full sized diffs front and rear and cable lockers if you get the right ones. smaller cv's than an 80, but the 80 cv's are much stronger than the diff into which they connect so they are of little advantage.

http://www.flowtech.co.uk/ you can have a look there and then you can probably phone your closest flowtech dealer to pick up the stuff. or you could just order straight from them. i don't think they are the cheapest around, but they have a big range.

sorry al, that was a sly dig, which is probably inappropriate as i don't even know you. i don't think much humour translates well in forum form. was aiming at the usual use of the nv4500 being behind 6bt's etc for whom 20psi of boost is considered asthmatic and many other transmissions wilt under the strain. alas the 2.8 isuzu is not so mighty. Anyway your choice of bits is your choice and should not be affected by some random chump typing on a forum, i'm sure there are many factors which have influenced your choice of which i am compeletly ignorant. anyway good luck with your project (and your many forthcoming hours at the milling machine), i look forward to seeing some pics.

so, conclusions, sort of. well my fiddling has kind of stopped at the moment as when firing up the engine for a test run i discovered that one of my manifold studs had snapped. spent a lot of sunday trying to get it out, but it is in an annoying place. it did show me the source of the annoying noise that my engine was making, so that's one good thing., but the manifold will have to come off now and will need a new gasket, £26 from milners . car needs to be used to launch a boat tomorrow night, so i'll not be able to strip things down until later on in the week. so to conclude for now until i fix the manifold, performance gains have been pretty good, was quite comedy fast when i had the fueling maxed, but now its a bit more sensible. i can now accelarate quite well up hills and be changing up when i do so rather than having to hold a gear at higher revs. i'm also finding the gearing a bit short, the venerable lt77 isn't the quickest shifter on god's earth so i run out of gears quite easily. i have a 1.2:1 transfer box in the garage and that should help things. i'm running 33" tyres at the moment, but if i upgrade to 35's in the future i may have to go back to 1.4, shall see. had hoped for a bit more gain at bottom end, jsut for taking off etc, but maybe i'm too used to modern common rail diesels. smoke is still a bit noticeable for my liking, so i'll keep fiddling. i think i'll also try upping the boost a bit and see what that does for things. the TDi guide suggested there would eba drop off, but pressure just at the intake manifold is 1.1 bar, so it is as normal, if not a little higher after fiddlign with the fuelling. anyway, hope this might help some folk going down a similar path, i'll maybe post upa few more details when i've fiddled some more. if anyone has anythign to add, comments, advice etc, please do so (especially if i have given bad advice in any of the above) also if anyone has recorded their own pump settings they've made on a 4jb1, that would be really useful too. cheers callum

and so on to actually making use of the intercooler. i vacuumed out the assemble before running, so it was fee from any swarf that might have fallen in whilst i was drilling things etc and this all sooked in, so it was airtight at least. first run just with the intercooler plumbed up revealed i had a problem holding the hoses on, the end of the elbow straight out of the turbo, without a lip on it kept blowing off, no matter how much i tightened the jubilee clip. i had to, therefore thoroughly degrease both pipe and hose, then use a high torque jubilee to stop it from blowing off. strangely all similar joints are fine, not sure why that is. once i had sorted this out, though i discovered the car had an annoying let-off valve that didn't like the boost to go beyond 0.7 bar. i think this can be removed and discarded, i just increased the preload on the spring inside with some washers and now it can happily go over 1 bar. handily the 4jb1 uses a bosch VE 'type' fuel pump, so there are instructions handily available on this here site in the tech archive for tuning, but there are some differences. 1st step is the smoke screw...there isn't one on a 4jb1 at least not in the same place as on a tdi, so i had to skip this step. next step i ignored all the instructions and opened up the cover where the smoke screw should have been and the diaphragm fell out. i then went back to the instructions and found this was not such a good thing as its position was critical, so the proper way to do things... when removing the top, mark with tippex or sumint the position of the diaphragm before removing it (although it may just come out with the lid like it did on mine). now you can take it out and have a look. on the end of it you'll see the eccentric conical shape. the diaphragm moves up and down withthe intake manifold pressure and a wee rod that comes out of the fuel pump is guided in and out by the cone shape. if you look closely (as seen in one of the pics) the rod wears a little groove in the cone, so if you didn't mark the diaphragm, this should point towards the front of the car. this will also show you that if you had been reading the tdi tuning instructions and been usin the '0' mark on the diaphragm itself as the position marker, like the tick mark on a tdi, that the '0' means nothing. you'll also note the ecentric shape of the cone and it is this which is used adjust the movement of the rod. the closer the rod can move to the centre of the shaft at the top of the cone, the more fuel is introduced. i initially whacked this round 270 degrees clockwise. as a result, the car went hella fast, but was hella smoky and exhaust gas temperature could be made to rise VERY quickly. i had read that 700 degrees celcius was the top safe temperature and i got to that quite quickly when i put my foot down. i backed it of to 180 degrees clockwise, but it was still smokey, so i have backed it off again to about 120 degrees clockwise. you should make all your alterations one at a time and write them down too, i didn't, which was pretty stupid, so i've had to backtrack a bit when fiddling with the fuelling. next step is the star wheel, which you'll see when you remove the diaphragm. a plastic toothed wheel which sits under the spring this can bepushed round with a small screwdriver or just using your fingernail, you don't have to remove the spring when you do it, but it just sits in that position, so it might get in your way. going by the land rover tdi guide i wound this round to 180 degrees clockwise, but i did it at the same time as fiddling the diaphragm, so i don't really know what effect it had. i'll have to fiddle with this further to find the optimal setting. doing the alterations one at a time is a much better idea. final thing, which makes a big difference is the fuelling screw which is on the back of the pump under a metal cover. its difficult to see from the top, but its the protrusion below the green rubber cap (note, its you don't touch th green rubber cap, its a seperate metal cover below that). removing the metal cover for the screw is a pain in the ass as its quite soft and just bends. persevere and it will come off though. once you get it off, you will be pleased t note that in japan they dont bother with tack welded metal lock rings to stop you fiddling so none of the grinding with a dremel necessary with land rover tdi engines. all there is is a slot scre, secured with a locknut, so all you need to do is loosen the lock nut and you can scres in the fuelling screw. for this i went for 2 whole turns clockwise. this made by far the biggest difference. its possibly a bit smokey, but i'll see how i get on with it. so, pictures... 1 - annoying let off valve on the intake manifold 2 - cover on top of the pump where i didn't find a smoke screw 3 - cover off and the diaphragm 4 - eccentric cone on the diaphragm 5 - better picture of the cone, which shows the groove worn by the rod and where the default position should be if you want to reset things 6 - underneath the diaphragm, the star wheel, with the spring still in place. you'll see here my tipex marks and that i have rotated it through 180 degrees, clockwise 7 - fuelling screw on the back of the pump, which i rotated 2 full turns clockwise. 8 - idle screw. winding in the scre on the back of the fuel pump will make your idle go quite high, so you'll need to adjust it back down. my throttle cable was rather short, which made things difficult, but when i finally got it slack enough, i found that it was no longer the idle adjust screw or the cable restricting it, but something else, so i'll need to investigate this further. my current idle speed is 1000rpm. it should be 750-800 rpm.

so, next bit, plumbing it all up. this took a long time as i did a fair bit of rearranging of the engine bay, taking the opportunity to rectify some parts of that i was not happy with after i initially changed engines. no pics in progress i'm afraid, but its kind of specific to the vehicle. i was making a saab 9-3 intercooler connect up to an isuzu engine in a land rover so there was lots of awkwardness. 1st step was to enlarge the holes i had cut in the wings a while back when i put the intercooler in place, they were too tight and didn't let me get the 90 degree bends out of the intercooler on sufficiently. so i could actually get the air filter out, i cut 35mm off the legs of the air filter box (and cleaned it up a bit too and filled a hole as arcs and thin stell don't mix too well). this also allowed some of the intercooler hoses to get back round from inside the wing. power steering reservoir moved to the other side of the eingine bay, above the power steering box and was mounted on a new bracket. the convoluted hose run in the past meant it needed pressure to bleed the system, hence the schraeder valve on the cap. in this position it bleeds fine. of course i had to extend the return hose to move it and 15mm hose that likes oil was quite difficult to find. the hose i used was 16mm so jubilees had to be very tight to stop leaks. my (quite large) box of electronics to run glow plug timers and the associated relays was relocated underneath the blanked air intake on the drivers side wing. it is on a nice little backing plate designed to be an easy fit, but stuff poking in the way makes it a sod to get in and out and i hope never to have to remove it again. in its place i decided to put a land rover header tank in place of the isuzu one i had been using. with the previous setting i had used a 1/2" bsp pressure relief valve as my radiator cap and the isusu bottle as the reservoir, but was not happy withthe setup. the new reservoir is from a range rover or disco, i think defender ones are different as this one needed spaced down to stop the cap hitting the bonnet. i uses a 35-15-35 coper solder tee piece to connect it to the bottom hose, i already had a connector in here as the standard bottom hose is too short for the isuzu engine, so it was a nice solution. at the engine end it attaches to a wiggle bit of pipe that can be clouted by the axle when the front of the car takes air. thankfully this bit of pipe can be unbolted, so i'm going to get it shortenend at some stage so that the 2 can't meet again...and split my bottom hose...again. other wee things were moving the box which contains the electric an relays (thermoswitch which goes into the thermostat housing is from a hi-jet for those of you looking to run leccy fans with a 4jb1 and then plumbing. my plumbing is a really mixed bag of bought elbows, discovery intercooler plumbing, volvo 940 turbo intercooler plumbign and some domestic (well commercial size probably) plumbing, 42mm and 54 mm o/d pipe, which was a better match than any proper pipe i could find even if it does look a bit ghetto. took a while to get the hose runs to sit nicely and without strain and i had to keep buying more expensive silicone hose, but its now ok. i expect most intercooler installations will differ from each other, but this may give you some ideas of the angles you need and routes for pipe runs. Brackets are flat bar bent round with a kick up at the end so they can be tightened and grip the pipes. they wre meant to be dead clever and threaded too, but i buggered it up. photos in not too much of an order, but might give you some help. photos 3 and 4 feature deisel jim's beautiful genuine parts radiator brackets that i bought from him, then promptly cut in half to extend. they work very well though jamie, much better than the standard ones which attach to the wings.