callum

i finally made some time to finish this off, so now i can post some pics. there has been a bit of isuzu talk on the forum recently, so perhaps this can help some folk with their own projects. frist step to make sure there was no going back was to rotate the turbo the alloy bit with the inlet and outlet can be unbolted and clocked so it gives you a bit more clearance to get intercooler pipes out. on engines intercooled from the factory, i think the position i have my outlet in now is standard. some of the bolts for this are really fiddly to get out and even more fiddly to get back in, so make sure you have ratchet spanners and maybe some fags and cups of tea. so pic 1, is the bolts you need to tackle, and the others are pics with the housing off. i'm afraid i don't have a picture of it back on without any hoses attached, but you can kind of see that it now fires away from the engine rather than towards.

http://www.engineconversions.co.uk/ shazam. there you will find conversions fot lt77, lt85, r380 and even lt95 if you want to go old school. M&d engineering flog them too, but they charge more. steve parker also has the adaptors too i think, but again he charges more. its a pretty common conversion, and the kits come with most stuff in them. they even come with instructions. al i don' think there will be many people using an nv4500 as there's not much demand for running a gearbox that weighs as much as the engine. i think you want to upscale your engine to a 4bd1 (for which adaptors are available) or downscale your gearbox. if you're determined, i'm sure you can find someone to make one for you though.

have you not got one of the wee retainer things that bolts on to the diff. stops your track rod being banana-d backwards if you hit it or catch it on something. alas it does sweet f-a if the rod bends the other direction (forwards)

you can do this in mine, not sure if its by design or wear. cant have the steering lock on though as i dont have one. my ignition uses the same key as the doors, which i don't think is usual for older land rovers and you can remove the key from the 'on' setting on the ignition so the engine stays running, which is handy if you have forgotten to unlock the tailgate. to switch off, reinsert key and turn off. i think you can switch off with anything that turns the barell, but they key must be used to switch on (thankfully). have tried other keys and they don't work so the barrel can't be that worn

you guys must work fast i have a 25l compressor and rattle gun from aldi. undoes almost everything i want and i dont have to wait for the compressor to refill as i've usually undone what i need by the time it has run out of air. i don't think i have had to undo more than about 3 really sticky bolts in quick succession, mostly it's one at a time witha pause to reposition myself or rattle gun. i don't have a 2 post lift or anything so there's never a situation where i'll have to undo 20 wheel nuts in quick succession.

be interested to see how you get on with it. having blown another hole in thin metal with the arc, i fancied a dc tig but wondered if it was worth it. can't quite affort the ac/dc type alas. shall keep an eye out i think.

disco parts and safari equip both sell them for 90/110. circa £150 i believe. as an alternative, pangolin make one that affixes to the crossmember and doesn't hang down any lower http://www.pangolin4x4.com/pangolin4x4/pro...es/hitches.html

i really admire your patience putting this up and going so in depth. makes it a really valuable resource. that finger nail looks a bit sore though. can any person performing this job expect similar injuries.

anyone using these. i see them a lot in US write ups and how to's for cars and have noted some bike shops have started selling them in the uk, albeit at about twice the price of in the US. I'm of the fairly lazy school of motor mechanics, tending to use tools only after i find i am unable to undo stuff with my fingers so i disposable gloves don't last very long. i am wondering if maybe a pair of these will prevent me from still having dirt under my fingernails on a wednesday after a weekend working, without losing any sensation with stuff i am working on.

having just fitted one, an 8.5mm drill bit does it and you need a 1/8NPT-27 tap. i got mine from a local place, 'engineering agencies' in Dunfermline. they had to order it in though and it cost about £17. i daresay i won't have to buy another in my lifetime though. some larger tap sets have it, they had a silverline box of taps in the same place for £30, so if you don't have many taps, that might be your best bet. i didn't need to do any reaming.

don't forget to put in vents. good ones too so that air has a good path to enter and exit. natural ventilation is your friend. what you've suggested sounds good, cut earth away as far as possible, down so that the concrete base is exposed would be good. when you put your gravel in, make usre it doesn't go above the level of the base so that air is free to move around and dry the concrete sectional panels. if your natural ventilation is good enough, you should be able to get away without the need for dehumidification. good luck

so will, any updates? keen to see how you're getting on with your project.

are they not exactly the same?

the one in the exhaust is an exhaust brake, cable operated by hooking it up to the brake pedal. they are called jake brakes in other places. some people fit them aftermarket, but the seize up often on isuzu's so are worth removing. the one in the inlet manifold is part of the quick warmup system, which is vacuum operated and restricts air into theengine to warm it up quickly. these also have a habit of failure. i think at some stage i shall remove both spindles. both flaps are off now, but its mabe worth ditching the spindles too.

as the owner of some aluminium topped split doors, i can say that they are not so weathertight. my fight with a tree once means one side just doesn't seal so tightly, but then the wind really blows you get draughts thgough the drainage holes and between the windows. the door tops also pull out at motorway speends letting in draughts and making noise. i relaly like their simplicity, but i wish they would better keep out the weather. the problem is they're just not rigid enough.

assuming it is the appropriate length can you not just redrill the flanges to suit?

another hold up was getting readings for stuff when tuning. i got a nice racetech boost gauge. its from their pro range and is really clear and nicely made. unfortunately i couldn't find an egt gauge at a decent price (like under £200) until recently when i cam across the mcnally electronics combined boost and egt gauge. it means the racetech one is now up for sale, but it gives me a boost gauge and egt gauge and they fit in the one hole in the dash, which is handy. so here's some pics. raceface120 fitted one recently, so you can see a fitted one in his disco thread, mine is still in its box at the mo, i still need an npt tap for the 2 probes. in the box comes the gauge, thermocouple for egt, electronic sensor for boost pressure and lots of wires to hook it up with. unfortunately it didn't come with any kind of guide as to what wires went where. i emailed dave at mcnally electronics and he sent me the installation sheet striaght away. he also sent me a photo of a gauge wired up so i knew which colours went where. i was really impressed by their customer service, so here's there address http://www.mcnallyelectronics.com/ plug plug . including shipping, gauge and asociated bits to make it work cost £91, which i think is pretty good value. my only complaint is that it lights up blue and the rest of my gauges are bog standard green. whilst talking gauges, donald (fatboy) was asking about gauges on his isuzu powered 2a buildup, so i've attached a pic of the standard rev from the trooper painted black and mounted up. its a good size and in this instance came free with the donor vehicle. given the peculiarities of the isuzu rev counter signal (from the fuel pump and operates on the earth ) its probably the easiest solution. i daresay you could flush mount it with a gauge panel if you so desired.

now some plumbing issues. mostly these are of my own doing by putting in too big an intercooler and having lots of things hanging round the edge of the engine bay, however some of them are because of the engine. it didn't come from the factory with an intercooler, so a bit of fiddlign is required. pic 1 shows that there's not much space between turbo and manifold to get the plumbing out of. pic 2 shows the bit that i think jez rotated so that he could pass the pipes. this is quite a good way to do it, but in my case it starts sending the pipework to the back of the engine bay and i would also lose that nice little bit to bolt the plastic intake tube from the air filter on. pic 3 i therefore propose to clock the turbo by undoing the little bolts you see there and rotating it by one bolt so that the turbo outlet points away from the block rather than towards it. that should give me the clearance i require. i'm not 100% sure that lots of little parts wont fall out if i do this. perhaps i need to research a bit more. this is the best way i can see to rotate the turbo, everything else is hooked up to oil feeds and the water cooling system.

vapour builders at least have a whole car to not get on with, i only had a few jubilee clips, yet its still not done. seeing as some folk were talking 'suzu i thought i'd update a bit more and maybe get moving. mostly i was busy with uni, but now i don't have that excuse. i also had to gather lots of stuff, but i think i have it all now so can get going. so firstly here's some pics of the plumbing bits i have accrued. some shiny stuff from viper performanace and then some not so shiny stuff from the scrap yard. it cost me about a tenner in total for the scrapy stuff (which included a lot of other random things and bits for other folk) so that was not bad value. the coppery shiny stuff is for filling in the blanks. i got it a while back as it was cheap. thre's proabbly a reason that its not normally used for intercooling, but its what i have and ally bends and silicone are too expensive for trial and error stuff. the copper stuff is also a good size match for both the isuzu engine and saab cooler. mayeb when i ahve it sorted out i'll change to alloy and proper bends.

I don't know if normal defenders have some sort of means to hold the back door open, but mine doesn't and when i decided to hang a spare wheel from the back door, it closing on me became less funny. i say its a problem but its been like that for a year or too now so it obviously isn't too much of a problem. aaaanyway, the idea of using a gas strut on the back door has been discussed here a bit. i'm not sure if anyone got round to doing it, but after a trip to the scrappies, a friend gave me his two old tailgate struts from a pug 205, so i decided to actually make some sort of stay. i wasn't really sure if it would work or not so i didn't take any 'in progress' pics. i was somewhat fearful that the rear door would be fired open on any unsuspecting person who opened it or would have no effect at all. anyway there's not much to it, i welded up a bracket at one end and welded some mounts to the existing stay which stop the door opening too wide. my door panel is ply so some fat self tappers were all that was required to attach it. might be more difficult r need more alignment to hit the frame if you have a standard card. some gas-strut-ish information, if you intend doing this. most gas struts seem to operate on little ball knuckles. on the peugeot these were welded to the body so i drilled out the sockets on the struts and made them into pins. unfortunately this weakends the plastic ends and i had to file mine way down as i had to squeeze the old door stay back through the card with its new mounts on. i therefore managed to snap one end and then threw the strut around the garage sursing and swearing. fear not though, a look around the family fleet revealed volkswagens have threaded knuckle things, so if you are visiting the scrappy, some of these might do. i think freelanders also have threaded ones on the back door strut. i had gone far enough so i just made do with my now eyed struts, but if i were doing it again i'd go down the vdub route. the struts dont seem to have any markings on them in terms of strength. all i can say is that the pug 205 one worked perfectly to my surprise and closing is not too much added effort yet it now holds open and can, with a bit of assitance to half way, open 'automatically' as descirbed in some car brochures. here's the pics, hope they might be of use to someone thinking about it.

mr jez speaketh the truth my recommendation regarding intercooling would be to hit the scrappies and take the whole intercooler/rad/fan assembly and all pipework from something like a volvo 940 turbo, saab 9000 turbo, citroen xm or the like. in most of these cases you'll get a good sized intercooler and rad rather than the 1/2 sized land rover seem to supply for some reason. a long long time ago i started a thread regarding installing an intercooler from a saab 9-3 in my 110. i have about the biggest surface area which is possible to fit, but it meant the in/outlets had to go through the wings and it requires some rather creative pipework. that and the cost of silicon bends has meant that the intercooler has been in place for about 2 years, but not been hooked up (i also had to finish uni). i think i now have all the bits required to plumb it in, shich includes some disco pipework, some volvo turbo pipework and i actually bit the bulletand bought some silicone bends. the 4 bends cost me £60, and having paid £100 for a whole trooper from which to remove the engine i wasn't keen to spend more on wee bits of hose. that being the case i would recommend something that fires its outlets backwards (like the 9000 cooler on jez's pic of the rangie) and taking the rad that fits behind it as it will make your life much easier and make the cost of plumbing less. i shall go take some photos and resurrect my thread i think. seems to be a few folk dealing with this at the moment and it might be good to share some thoughts on the matter. once i get my egt/boost gauge wired up and move a few things in the engine bay, i should be good to go, finally. there is the thread i started http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7909&hl= although i didn't really get too far.

i need to drill and tap a hole in my exhaust manifold to install a thermocouple. i expect the best way to do it would be to haul the manifold off and do it on the bench, but i expect removal would be a world of pain and seized and broken bolts so my preference would be to do it in situ. it being a turbo diesel, the manifold is unfortunately upwind of the turbo so whatever falls into the manifold when drilling gets to take a journey through the turbo. do you think it is worth risking drilling and tapping in situ using a slow speed and lots of cutting paste to minimise swarf and make it stick to the drill bit? or is this definately a manifold off job so that no swarf can get into the turbo.

pump found on an isuzu trooper operates at 83.4 bar. no data on flow rate i'm afraid, but it made stering noticably lighter than witha land rover pump

i think you need to be logged in to see that pic, so for those of you without log in...

you really are best to tackle it at source. make sure all the walls are free from earth, debris etc. as far down as possible and make sure you dont have any air bricks covered up. you don't mention what construction the garage is, but i'm assuming brick. if it does not have any ventilation i would recommend getting busy with the drill and making some. check out the local building regs, they'll give you guides on ventilation area vs. floor area.