callum

hmm, been there and tried that then. maybe its why they're cheap. in their favour there are plenty in the scrapyards for bits at least. unfortunately, i think with your disco, you have one of the more efficient 4x4's of that era. can i ask what mpg you got on road with your shogun? was it running larger than standard rubber

have you discounted a shogun? they offer quite a bit of boot space owing to them being a proper 7 seater. best of all they seem to be really cheap at the moment. Have toured a somewhat tired 1991 v6 round iceland, which had 390000km on the clock and apart from a few fuses it was fine. i'm led to believe the diesels are either slow, 2.5, or thirsty, 2.8, so maybe the v6 is the one to have. we managed 20mpg over about 350km (first fill up), much of which was off road and i was quite surprised by that.

its odd, land rovers seem to be fetching quite a lot at the moment on ebay. i've been looking at ebay a lot with a view to buying a landcruiser, but again they are going on ebay for a fair bit more than classifieds. seems to be very much a seller's market at the moment.

indeed. nice, but definately not a person.

perhaps you can share your draught exclusion techniques. that's the biggest issue i find. or indeed can't find. it freezes my right leg, but is coming in somewhere in th bulkhead i think. very frustrating.

if you swap to a salisbury diff in the back you could use one of the lunchbox lockers available for the dana 60. you could also go for an ox locker, $$$ which is cable operated, so maybe not what you're after.

when considering your gearbox loads i don't think you're comparing apples to apples. I'm not enormously familiar with the audi v8 you intend to use, but i would expect its max torque is generated somewhat higher up the rev range than a diesel engine. much of the difficulty experienced by gearboxes is due to the torque generated at low revs. Unless you are dumping the clutch, the application of torque by a petrol is much more forgiving.

i think it was actually 2p rather than 2%, making it more than 2%. i think a deferred 2p rise was also implemented this year. not sure where you find out, but it would be interesting to see what additional levy was introduced whilst oil prices were low. http://business.timesonline.co.uk/tol/business/economics/pbr/article5225998.ece sorry forgot the reference EDIT: and a bit more from petrolprices.co.uk 2009 Fuel Tax Figures 2009 fuel duty (as of 1 September 2009) in the United Kingdom is: * 56.19 pence per litre for main road fuels, unleaded petrol and diesel * 65.91 pence per litre for leaded petrol * 36.19 pence per litre for biodiesel and bioethanol * 22.16 pence per kg for road fuel natural gas * 27.67 pence per kg for road fuel liquefied petroleum gas ('LPG') On 1 December 2008 a permanent 2p increase in fuel tax was introduced to offset the rate cut in VAT from 17.5% to 15% bringing the duty rate for the main road fuels up to 52.35p per litre. On 1 April 2009 the duty rate for unleaded petrol and diesel was icreased by 1.84 ppl to 54.19p per litre and again on 1 September 2009 by 2 ppl to reach the current level of 56.19 per litre. These rates will be increased further on 1 April 2010 to 2013 by 1% above inflation each year. so, unless my 'math' is wrong three rises in duty in just over a year, adding 6p. and on a litre of fuel at 108.9p, 72.41p is tax, 66.5%

burns well. yes ed, all these people had insufficient washer fluid. i was in a halfords today and they had a big washer fluid crate out front. Sufficient to -4 or the more expensive stuff, sufficient to -6. (should maybe just have read insufficient) a good number of folk will put that sort of stuff in their washer bottle and unsurprisingly it freezes when its colder than that. good for most of the year, but december, january february, it will freeze at some point. i think this is amusing our canadian friend somewhat. what's the temperature in the calgary vicinity at the moment john?

things are getting bad when the chat goes to washer fluid. anyway, for comparison, the average joe will get some of this. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_217418_langId_-1_categoryId_229902#dtab so about £1 a litre. its considered a concentrate here, hence the outlandish claims of makes 100 litres if you mix with water. In truth i think its good to -23 so it just gets added straight from the bottle without mixing. a touch more pricey than canada, but then you're paying a bit of a premium getting it from halfords. you can get more concentrated stuff reaonsbly easily which you would mix 50/50 to get about the same performance, but it would be a cheaper way of doing it. to be honest though, such temperatures are not that common in most of the uk on account of being an island amidst seas. in the middle bits of scotland it more frequently gets pretty cold, but not for weeks or months at a time. As such, folks are not in the habit of putting in more concentrated fluid as its not normally necessary. i felt a bit silly firing the halfords green goo at my windscreen last week when driving along the motorway as it was quite a bit above freezing. most of the year i just chuck water in the washers.

indeed, its just a case of getting the right washer fluid. Using normal fluid available here is quite expensive as you have to put in the fluid neat, which folk are not used to doing (the standard halfords stuff is only good to -20 neat, although the coldest temperature ever recorded here is -27, so it doesn't get that low very often). i imagine in colder climes, much more concentrated fluid is available making it a bit more economical, 50/50 mix i presume. i had trouble with freezing washers, which persisted until i could get the neat fluid through the frozen lines. defrosting the lines in the engine bay was easy enough, but a kettle of hot water is not so welcome behind the dash. I presume better concentrates are available from motor factors at a better price, so it might be worth finding some and buying a decent amount for next winter.

you could just risk it and do it whilst the manifold is attached. I did mine in situ. I put some strong small magnets round the hole i was drilling to collect the swarf and used cutting paste so any of the rest of it stuck. i then gave it a quick vacuum. Didn't have any subsequent difficulties and i suppose as a forum member suggested at the time, any remaining swarf will quickly be blown out the exhaust. Your choice whether you want to risk it i suppose.

its australian as it says in the first post, hence the wing mirrors. Not sure why you think the markings are spanish though... Anyway, try posting on one of the australian forums, it may have been a JRA conversion.

a small cost will be changing your headlights to right hand drive when you get here, about £20 for a new set from paddocks etc. Oh and if you don't have a spare wheel (maybe you have one inside, but i noticed a spare was not such a popular accessory in iceland) bring one or budget for getting one here. If you get a flat here, not many local tyre fitters will have 37" tyres in stock to get you going again quickly if the tyre can't be repaired.

because selling a car in iceland at the moment is somewhat slow. also it looks from the wee picture to be modified quite a lot, so if you have the car tailored to your tastes, it doesn't make much sense to start again. perhaps when the kreppa abates he will want to take it back again.

7" i believe

make sure your bottom pulley is a triple one as well. Some (mine) came with just a double and i didn't know at the time that thre were different models so spaced my pump back to align properly. Of course the middle pulley is bigger than the two eiter side so it made the pump whine quite a bit as it was turning a bit fast.

don't suppose anyone knows, or fancies braving the snow to take a quick measure of the airbox? considering one in my 110 to reorganise the engine bay a bit, the space i have is not very wide, so the freelander airbox may be a good fit. is the td4 one the same size? it has to feed a 2.8, so i don't want it to be too restrictive. cheers callum

thanks for the link will. i read from its specs that its a jointing compound, so presumably sets. i'm using the rivnuts in places where i will need to unbolt things in future, would the duralac cause an issue here?

just use decent jubilee clips , they'll hold the hoses on. i had trouble with one silicon hose blowing off a straight piece of pipe when i first installed my intercooler. this was the first one out of the turbo which did not have a lip. i had used lubricant to get this particular hose on also, so to solve the problem i degreased both hose and pipe and fitted a higher torque jubilee clip. it has never blown off again and nor have any of the other connections in the system which do not have lips and which are secured with just ordinary jubilee clips. you should be fine, a tdi is not running massive boost pressure.

i have some sitting on my desk at the moment, i plucked them out of a freelander in the scrap yard. you want to get the proper bulb and conector as they're quite odd things. if you don't already have them i'd suggest a visit to a scrap yard and then take some from a freelander and pull out as long a tail as you can (i only managed a 6" tail). i only paid £1 for mine ,so it will be cheaper than hunting for new connectors and then you can just solder to your existing connections. as for cutting a hole, i intend to make a card, then maybe aluminium template to make sure they fit ok.

been reading various charts, namely the galvanic series, but i'm still not really sure what fixings i should be using with what and i sem to be finding conflicting views. So...aluminium (of what sort i don't know) rivnuts into brimabright seems sound, however should i be using bzp fixing into the rivnuts or stainless (304 i assume if its A2), again i don't really know . This is generally in situations that would be considered as fixing in panel situations. also, bzp steel rivnuts. Seems like bzp fixing should be used there (the shole lot going into a steel panel), but can stainless be used also? would appreciate some feedback from anyone who knows a bit about this or has tried it and witnessed results. i tink i can avoid rotting the panels, but i'd prefer not to have scabby looking bolts corroding away too. Both situations will no doubt see some exposure to water/road salt on occasion, but not too much. using them in under bonent applications and on the body.

hmm, found a pic of an early bonnet open in another thread and it appears i do not have the requisite slot for the clip thing pictured above. rethink required... how does a later bonnet click shut?

tried molyslip i the gearbox and found it prevented it crunching when cold. tried the molyslip engine equivalent and found no difference. i'd use the gearbox stuff again, but probably not the engine stuff.

don't suppose anyone has a pic or diagram of the early type of bonnet lock. i don't have a bonnet lock on my 110, so i'm thinking this may be the easiest sort to install. could do with seeing how it fits/operates before i begin the search for part numbers. thanks callum