callum

heard a few people say cowls make not much difference. i fitted one as i found that the heater was ok at low speeds, but at 60-70mph i was getting cold. i assumed this was because at high speeds the intake was in a bit of a dead zone so fitted a cowl to improve it. After fitting i found i was no longer getting cold at speed as air seemed to be getting in better. i went to the effort of cutting out the grill of the old vent cover first before fitting the cowl on top, so maybe that's the difference. who knows...

have to say that whilst me heater struggles to fill a 110 with heat, one thing it is very good at, indeed better than many modern cars, is clearing the screen. in part it is probably due to the screen being quite wee, but it does seem to do that job very well. In any case, i think you should give your heater a thorough check over before making bigger modifications, might save you a bit of time/hassle.

awful lot of hate going on for leccy fans here. granted, i wouldn't bother changing a viscous for one if i didn't have to, but they are powered by electric motors, which tend to be pretty reliable devices. as for power 'four times more powerful' seems like a figure plucked somewhere from the air. i'd concur with red90 regarding the cost though. i'm going to have to say that i can't see many reasons to fork out for a kenlowe (excess money weighing you down maybe), when you can get a fan/fans depending on your radiator from a scrappy, with cowl, for about £5. that's a lot of viscous units. i'd also say that the extra space for working is quite handy too. Last time my fan actually came on was when i burst my bottom hose, otherwise it just sits there doing not a lot and not taking up much space.

the 3 litre isuzu troopers (post 1999) don't seem to be fetching much at auction these days, circa £1500 for not too high mileage. they had pretty serious injector seal issues in the past, causing engine self destruction, however this should have been fixed under warranty by now, so i think they should be a fairly safe bet. 168bhp if i remember correctly and the good side of 30mpg.

there there bill, if land rover were in the business of producing all round good vehicles, you wouldn't have had all that 'fun' over the years rectifying those issues. buying a japanese 4x4 is just cheating.

fortunately, or unfortunately i have some stuff to be writing and i'm an incredible put off so i went out in my slippers and took some photos. these are 285's but there's not too much difference. on passenger's side, they're clearly outwith the wheelarch, whereas on drivers side they're clearly in. at the rear they're about on the edge. i presume the difference on the front is due to the panhard, or my chassis is bent. on all four corners i had to heat up the arches with a blow torch, pull them out and the drench them with cold water so that they would cover the tyres a bit better. anyway enough with the chitter. my concern is that the standard alloys with 30mm spacers may give more offset than bog standard modulars and this would put your tyres further out of the wheel arches. to be honest its not the end of the world, but it might be something to condsider if it is something that worrys you. anyway you asked about 295's and i'm afraid it was only a picture of the wheel i could find as it was someone selling them. this rather ridiculous 90 is advertised as having them http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160352375310 hankooks though. i couldn't see 295 at2's on a quick search, but camskill have 285's for £92, which doesn't seem like such a bad price. Not that there would be anything wrong with the slightly larger tyre.

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/attachments/f16/22217d1251856045-trade-4-nitto-grappler-295-75-16-tire-rf.jpg shazam, one 295 on an oem alloy

they would be 15mm taller diameter than a 285. however as these are a bit notional it will depend between manufacturers, so its best checking on their websites. i wouldn't recommend running them on the standard alloys as speaking from experience with 285's, you really need the extra offset of aftermarket wheels to keep a decent steering lock. you could of course just put spacers on. width wise i don't see any problem with 7". if you were to step up to 315's id probably say it was worth going for 8" rims though. i thought it was only bfg at's that were available in this size, but i see looking at google there are a few manufacturers who use this. i think the AT is the only bfg tyre in this size though. is it the hankook ones you are looking at?

http://www.rovertracks.com/products/driveline.html or you can go the jack mcnamara route http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au/hypoid1.html which is more expensive, but designed to be a straight fit.

i've seen adapters available from the US, but i'm afraid i don't have the link anymore. in any case, they were spacer adapters and about 2" deep owing to their design, so not really suitable for your needs.

the object is just to get on tyres as large as possible for flotation over snow, there's not a whole lot else going on. its all that's really needed for the purpose of driving on snow. The set up does not seem particularly palatable to our tastes, but then driving over lots of snow is not something that we have to do in the uk. On the other hand, using such a vehicle in the uk would probably prove it to be pretty rubbish in these circumstances.

granted, an old 110 is not the last word in refinement, but headlining is of benefit. mine arrived with none (and no interior trim at all save for two seats) and being a cheapskate i had to make some. i found it made a considerable difference though, condensation was eliminated from the roof as there was no big cold surface above you for the water vapour to condense on and it really did cut down on the noise. warmth, well, as you say the heater falls somewhat short of a roaring furnace, so i didn't notice really that much difference. with aluminium being a fairly good conductor of heat, almost any material will improve its insulative qualities. i'm not saying headlining is essential, and many do without, but it does improve things somewhat and every little helps.

eliminates condensation, reduces noise, insulates. tis featured in almost all cars for a reason and unless you're getting it wet a lot (or you enjoy the aforementioned) it makes sense to have it in a land rover. making your own is not difficult, however if i'm not mistaken, the defender stuff is rigid, so you can remove it, strip off the saggy stuff and recover. i've seen pictures of doing the same for a land cruiser, should be easier for a defender. could even re-do it in alcantara, tres pimp.

i'd concur with that, i run 285's and recently changed to a 1.222:1 transfer box. different engine, but a td5 will proabbly be putting out more power than my home tuned isuzu so it really shouldn't be struggling. what might be the case is it came with 205's originally and you're still running that speedo drive gear. that will makes the speedo read well under and your mpg appear lower.

if you're going to get your chassis re-dipped have a think about the other bits of car that you might like to get dipped at the same time, such as bulkhead, door frames, cappings. It probably wouldn't cost you too much on top of the chassis dippig price to get these bits done at the same time. Of course yo may not have the time, but in my experience its these sorts of things that tend to rust a bit quicker than the chassis and it would be nice not to have to think about them again for a long time.

need to go a huntin' for some 62 series axles with cable lockers. although to be honest if you find them, there's alot to be said for using the whole axle assemblies as you'll get a 9" diff at the front end too. large as the 80 cv's are, you unfortunately have a weak link in the middle and its currently easier to get better cv's for a 60 series than it is to toughen up the diff of an 80.

are you not getting any luck on the phone at all? i bought a towbar from them last week and had no problems, phone was picked up first time and the stuff was with me the next day. I bought a wheel carrier from them a few years ago, granted that took a little while to arrive, but it came with a set of shop drawings, explaining how things went together. didn't show you how to fit the stuff to your vehicle, just had to guess that, but it was reasonably self explanatory. i will caveat that, however as the tow bar doesn't currently fit, but its to be expected i'm afraid. land rover tolerances are not the finest and i've had an aftermarket crossmember welded on, so expecting the face of the crossmember to be bang on with the jate ring holes is a bit like wishful thinking. i just wish they'd left a bit more steel on beyond the hole so i could enlarge it a bit. good luck with getting through to them, from my few dealings with them they don't seem to be a bad bunch.

you're not a million miles away from highland galvanisers. not sure how much it costs to dip a chassis these days, but i suppose its an option if you need to mod the chassis you have. otherwise, bolt on cages exist for export to countries where you are not allowed ot weld to the chassis. Maybe you could phone round some suppliers and see what they say.

did you whip the doors off and refold the bottom or did you just slice the bottom straight off. i suppose you're maybe going to be a bit close to the inner sort of lip bit to refold the bottom. of course you could jsut put us all out of our misery and post some pictures

http://www.strathearnengineering.com/chassispage.htm these people do lots of chassis changes. ferry from bruges to rosyth and then 30min drive. costs start adding up when you involve ferry journeys though.

if you have the bearings out, note down the numbers on them then call a bearing supplier to get replacements. that way you will know the brand of bearings you're going to get. Britpart is a bit of a lottery, you might get ok stuff, but it might be rubbish. there's a big difference between good bearings and bad bearings and you don't want to be rebuilding stuff with bad ones. that being said the markup on genuine parts things like bearings and seals is astronomical. by spending £85 on bearings with land rover, you certainly won't be getting £85 worth of bearings, but you are guaranteeing no hassle with fit and operation. Personally i find gearbox removal a hassle, so would be inclined not to take part in the Britpart lottery. i'd recommend the bearing supplier route.

Don't suppose anyone has a copy of JIS wiring standard colours. I have a mitsubishi shogun part to be grafting into my land rover loom and it would be useful to know what colours for ignition, permanent live, earth etc are. a shogun/pajero wiring diagram would be helpful also, but just knowing the standard colours would be helpful enough before i have to take the trial and error route. thanks callum

nv5600 has 0.73 ratio in 6th

i think the unbranded paddocks supplied cv's fared better than genuine ones in aschroft's cv destructor machine. less hard than genuine i think, so will probably not last so well, but i think this worked in their favour during destructive testing.

not sure where that comes from , i'd heard it before fitting alloys too. anyway drums are fine, as said, its the hubs at the front which cause the problem, specifically the bolts on the hubs. i tried running without the spring washers, but still not enough clearance. in the end i had 5mm steel spacers made up, which solved the problem. i've since changed to steels again.