callum

oh sorry, that was a bit stupid http://www.bmhor.org/ down the left hand side. as i say, this may be the same thing you already have and merely further torment, but hopefully it is of some help.

this may well be the bible you've found. its listed on the website as a workshop manual, but as i recall its huge, e.g 275mb ish, so it may be different to what you have and have parts info.

trying to find the part no. for the plastic bushes/shims that isolate the door hinges from the bulkhead and door. td5 hinges are a bit bigger and rounder so the old parts don't fit. from an older thread, i see the part no. for the shim between hinge and bulkhead is BDC710040 i can't see anywhere the part no for the shim between the hinge and door. maybe its the same part, but on the old hinges they were a different shape. thanks for your help callum

roads contractors around here just seem to put the jacks down and take the wheels off now when leaving trailers by the road side. seems a good solution, keeps the trailer stable, cant be moved by vandals and a thief will need at least 2 wheels of the correct pcd and suitable bolts/nuts before making off with the trailer. i should imagine they carry a batter rattle gun to do this though, bit of hassle if you were working your way round a twin axle trailer with a wheel brace.

i had a very similar one that came from homebase a few years ago. i sold it to a friend when i was given a bigger clarke one and its still going ok. it will drill through thick steel and you shouldn't need to be exerting massive amounts of force on it. use cutting paste and don't go crazy when you step up between drill bit sizes. a bigger one will of course always be better, but that one will be ok and certainly better than using hand drills. the other advantage is if you don't have much space, they're good and compact.

how old is your td5, i wouldn't have thought much more than 10 years. that's pretty quick for a crossmember rotting.

australians have reported problems with the chassis mounts failing as the double mounts are applying a moment to the suspension mount that it was not designed for. they probably give their suspension a harder time over greater distances than us europeans,but its worth considering if you have a galvo chassis and anticipate long hours on rough roads. are you looking to run double shocks or just to move the shocks out from within the springs? unless you're racing, double shocks will only make your ride pretty harsh.

i don't think they're a bad engine, but in spite of all the kit coming with it, it will be a reasonable job to make fit. by the same measure, a tdi is not a bad engine and will just be a remove and replace job with no adaptation required. if you fancy a project and have the time to spare, the daihatsu engine might be worthwhile, but if you're needing a quick fix, i wouldn't bother. there are loads of discos in scrapyards these days so an tdi does not command such a high price.

your tacho feed is on the fuel pump, i've written about the wiring for the isuzu tacho on another post somewhere. the cable colours are black and red if i recall. the signal actually comes from the earth.

but don't put a 33" tyre on the safari equip one as you won't be able to fit your nato hitch, or you will, but it will have to be sideways at all times, which is pretty useless. fear not though, they make a high clearance one now i think which will help.

the double mounting bracket from a tdi will fit. i had a power steering setup from a 300tdi on my 2.5 n/a when i had it. just swapped out the single alternator mount to the combined alternator and pump mount that came with the pump. you'l need to get hold of a triple pulley too as using the double pulley will mean you have to space back the pump too far and it will also be running too fast.

i think you just need to hit some insurance quotes to see what you can get. it seems to be the deciding factor and may at this stage mean you are stuck with an 88. a 90's japanese 4x4, or a freelander, will solve many of your woes, but is no good if you can't afford to insure it.

that's the one. n/a version in the 110 perentie and turbo version in the 6x6 perentie. if you got one from an isuzu van you'd at least get the turbo. australians seem to like them a lot. you've encouraged me to dig out an old lrw from 1998 with an article featuring them. the servicing guy they interviewed said they had quite a few come back from operations in cambodia which had gone 2-300,000km without a fluid change. they cleaned them up, flushed the fluids and sent back out again. i've seen a few on ebay in or from range rovers with conversion kits, so someone must have offered a conversion kit at some stage. not sure what their source of engines was. given the amounts people used to spend to get rid of v8's from their range rovers in the 90's, they could well have been fresh crate engines. would be an interesting engine to have though, can't be too many people running them in land rovers in the uk.

4jb1-t came in troopers 88-91 i think, isuzu pickups, -2000 i think and fronteras, but only for 2 years. there's slight differences between them though. i have a trooper 2.8 in my 110 and got a spare frontera top end from the scrappies, but things like dipstick length, cooler piping are different. The frontera model is intercooled as standard, so its air piping is a wee bit different. inlet manifold, for example is as per the 3.1 4jg2. it also had a egr system, but i didn't bother bringing that home with me. i'm wondering if you're thinking of the 4bd1 (3.9l), as fitted in the australian market. my jcb knowledge isn't too hot, but i'm assuming they're not running 2.8 motors. over here, you'll find the 4bd1 in isuzu medium pick ups and box vans. not enormously common place, but findable. if you want to fit one to a defender you might have to find some bits and pieces from australia to make the job easier. i think the sump is different and possibly the oil pick up for off road angles of operation. plenty of info on aulro though.

thanks for the links. i think i should be a bit more specific and warn that i'm being pretty fussy as well. the car, a landcruiser, has a retrofit fog light already, but it hangs down quite low and is pretty vulnerable. a flush mount option would be preferrable, which is what i acquired the vw transporter light for, but there's quite a bit of metalwork behind the bumper, including the crossmember which is pretty wide. mx5 and skyline owners seem to be happy to fit a light for the sva/mot and then whip it off, but i'd rather just have one on all the time. with that in mind i was looking for a very small (and legal) free standing rear fog to fit to the wheel carrier. that ring front fog for example is 39 x 63mm. piaa make a nice led one, but at £85 its a bit much anyway, thanks for the suggestions.

i think you'll find at the moment lhd ones going for quite a bit more than rhd. UK used car prices are pretty cheap and combined with the current weak pound, lots of vehicles are heading off shore, so you've got a bit of competition in your hunt for lhd vehicles. english is pretty widely spoken in north western europe, so you could try germany, benelux countries and scandinavia, but i think you'll pay much more buying from one of these countries. another option might be the middle east.

i need to fit a rear fog light on a (cough non land rover) vehicle which currently does not have one (well it does, but its large, fixed below the bumper and its only a matter of time where the ass of said vehicle gets dragged through the dirt leaving the light behind). i'd like something like this but obviously in red. i'm hoping someone who has been building something non standard recently and had to sva it may have come across something suitable that they can suggest. i had considered using the above ring ones with some sort of tinting paint, but to be honest i think 55w is far too bright and will just shine through. my test with an led torch and a bike light lense certainly seemed to suggest so. anyone come across something similar for a rear application? i whipped a fog light off a vw transporter in the scrappies at the weekend to fit into the bumper, but behind the plastic is lots of metal that i can't be bothered cutting, so i was just looking to mount a wee free standing thing on the spare wheel carrier. thanks callum

isuzu troopers had exhaust brakes as standard. i cut mine out as it was seized, like most others you will come across in the 4jb1. it was cable operated but seemed like quite an obstruction in the exhaust even when open. i imagine you'll find engine braking, wind resistance and normal brakes sufficient for slowing your progress.

put plenty oil in the aldi rattle gun. they're pretty stiff and ineffective when new, but once they've loosened up, they're pretty good. i'm sure an IR of CP gun is a lot better, but for smaller sized stuff and wheel nuts, its £13 well spent.

i need to order some rattle can paint by ral colour (ral 7045). I've found one vendor on ebay and one vendor in ireland. does anybody know of any other retailers who would mail order rattle cans which are mixed to a ral colour? thanks callum

freelander 2 provides 400nm from a 2.2l

they're made by vdo i think, just get the appropriate one from egauges. £258 is crazy money.

have a look in breakers. if they have any mitsubishi shoguns (i think they are maybe called monteros in your part of the world) in. they have an aux heater under the back seat, which is basically a metal basin with a heater matrix and fan in it which heats and recirculates the air in the car (plumbed into the existing cooling system). it would fit in a seatbox easily. i have one and a controller in the garage, which i had intended to fit in the middle of the seatbox beneath my cubby box. if i butcher the seatbox enough it should fit behind the transfer box. its been sitting in my garage for a while now as i've not had time to work on it and i'm thinking of moving over to the dark side. anyway, i've experienced those heaters in their original location and they're quite effective. mine only cost £15 on ebay, but i would question a bit whether its maybe just worth fitting an eberspacher.

maybe its a question of how sealed is sealed. perhaps in a well sealed metal container it does not go off, but it would seem from the evidence above, in less than perfectly sealed containers it does.

i think, although i may be wrong, that you could disconnect from outside and then withdraw the handle from the inside. take the vent flaps off outside and then have a look, might save you some effort.