seriebil.dk

Hi What Land Rover engine are we talking ? Which way from Esbjerg are you going, to copenhagen? or north to Frederikshavn/Hirtshals ? My best shot on LR mechanic or parts supplier in that region of Denmark is, Tohuse auto - nation known LR mechanic - +45 86 66 80 87 LR Parts DK - good supplier - + 45 251 251 97 Williams Land Rover Parts - +45 98 63 44 41 - very competent and good prices. Otherwise call me and i'll try to help translate or anything, you are welcome to use my small workshop, but i'm around 100 km north from Esbjerg. I have send my number in PM

HI i'm baking up HTC phones, have a QTEK S200 - old HTC brand as back up phone, which runs tomtom or the like with an external GPS unit with no problems, think it would handel Ozizplorer as well. daily i'm using a HTC Legend - Android platfrom, it has GPS unit and Google Maps and then you just need to find the offline Nav program that fits you - i think ozixplorer is coming in a android version, any one know more or tried it speak up ? great phone with lots of features and the cast aloy body is though and good looking . Feature: with the Legend i have got HUD in my SIII - now thats fancy

the Lada Niva looks so cool.... with rear spoiler and all.

And the ones responsible for sacking people have also been sacked... etc.

Hi We did the trip Varberg - Jokkmokk and back in our SIII 88" "Hakuna Matata", although during the summer. We did the trip up with 3 stops, and the down in 4 stops. The E4 is a very beautiful trip with great view and lots of interesting stops, make sure you have time to stop and see things. we have just this Xmas, done a trip, Jutland, Denmark to Norrköping during snow storms and -20 C in 7 hours in our old VW golf on normal wintertires - studs would have been great but not a must. The Things Q-rover mentions are a must in winter time. Remember diesel is more expensive up north due to more additives and anti-fresh is added.

Hi We got 20 - 50 cm today and they say we are getting 30 cm more during the night Well, haven't helped anyone yet, but had a evening drive.

Change the 2,5 N/A for the rebuild 2,5 TD in the 88" Happy New year

"Mud paddles" - formerly known as - "Snowchains" old wine on new bottles. but nice design and a bit easier to fit.

try this place - the price is 30.000 - 35.000 DKR http://www.staaling.dk/default.asp?pageload=salgsliste&id=27763 they are former Missile launch or what do you call it. so there is no hood or sticks, but they are in real good state, the clock says 20-45.000 km

Hazard switch depends on which year its from - my 1972 88" does not have it - but might get it soon

i wouldn't fit any of the 2,25 carbs on a 2,5 petrol, they are rubish on the 2,25 so can only do worse on a 2,5. i would go for a standard Weber for a 2,5, or a suitable upgrade from automotive. while your having it out, why not fit another cam shaft ? check out automotives site.

Now that would have been smart if the trailer could actually be detached the Range Rover sure that trailer would be very nicea and stable at high speeds

Hi Allinger I follow your idea on importing LR from UK, me just to Denmark and for the spares - Disco 200TDI or 90 200TDi for my 109/88 projects. well, if you need help regarding any danish based LR's for sale just ask/PM me, I might know the seller or the car. Sorry, i'm fresh out of spare LR's myself:D Lets hear what kind of quote you get from the UK dealers.

Hi Mog Lucky you and congrats. I went from a 2,25 petrol to a 2,5 N/A in my S3 88" and have never regretted it. OK my petrol was shot, but it still pulled the 88" up to 110 km/t on highway - if needed. but there was no low down pulling power for the trailer/caravan left. so in went the 2,5 N/A and what a different. Trialing is now done in 2nd low at idle . OK it is more noisy, unrefined and goes no faster than 90 km/t on 235/85-16, but better fuel economy and better torque, plus water proff with snorkel. and yes it takes a lot of abuse, about the heater plugs, as it went from a petrol to diesel, i think the builder must have made a hole new heater system, as the petrol doesn't have any. I made a system up from VW Golf 2 parts.

Hi Pat I have been having the same search for the right springs for 8 years now. but for my 88". which i bought in 2001, with a small lean to the drives side. over the years it became the lowest 88" in Denmark - the springs were more straight than curved, almost starting to go the other way up but i just couldn't find the right ones, having the money, etc... I have tried Rocky M. 2 leaf front and 3. leaf rear in a 88" - very hard and bounchy. I know several 109 STW, with heavy loads/ caravans running TIC 2 or 3 leaf front and 4 leaf back, which have more than 8 years of hard off road driving on their backs. Well i finally bought a set of Heystee 2 leaf front and 3 leaf rear for my 88", and what a chance. its as comfy as a 90", and the raise is about 4-5 inchs at the moment. on the other hand i have heard story after story about cheap spring banged together with chinese farmers steel, braking, sagging, not lasting more than 4 weeks etc. My advise - spend the money on the real deal and enjoy, spend them on the cheap S*** and end up spending them twice or more. before and now

Hi put a picture of your "bulkhead needs repairs" areas, might not be needed to take it of, as long as you got a welder at hand.

Hi I'm almost finish with fitting Parabolic springs to my 88" SIII, i know they will settle a bit, but the travel will still be there. The rear end fitted fine, no problems. but last night i tried fitting the front prop shaft, finding out it was 3-4 cm short. INFO: the front axle is just hanging from the chassis, no load. So now what are my options or what have you done, some ones else must have had this task before. can i fit a prop from a 90" or other LR model ? Anders

My advise would be to change the tensioner aswell, i would never re use that no matter its age. seen to many engine go because of this. this ones looks like its taken some mud to, which must have found its way inside the tensioner. better remember that bottom plug next time you wading Anders

Thanks, lets just say it wasn't that tight when i took it off

Hi To add to this question. i have removed the handbrake and rear output flange to change the oil seal. but i can't find any torque settings for the refitting of the output flange nut ? help please Anders

Hi Tom To save you from rusting/decaying window channels go for the all plastic ones, look here: Linky a exact replacment for the metal ones and lasts longer. Anders

Hi Diesel66 I did my 88" from a 2,25 petrol to a 2,5 N/A some years ago, can't tell much about the wiring and fuel lines, i made all mine from nothing being a petrol. i used the engine mounts from the old engine. i think it was like this. the exhaust side mounts are just swapped over and the chassis fits as is. the batteri side, i kept the 2,5 engine mount and cut the chassis mount clean off, and one of the battery tray legs aswell. then i welded the spare engine mount to the chassis ( i don't remember from which place it came, but the angle was just right for the battery side engine mount of the 2,5 N/A) then i made a new leg for the battery tray and kept it in place. lowering the engine in place we just pushed it a bit to clear the tray. The cut off and battery tray leg - no comments on the welding, still learning And the engine in place hope this helps

hi Nice work, just finish patching up my 88", in the "paintshop" at the moment. Yes you get to know your welder over time, but here is a good place to read , watch and learn - linky Anders

Hi Just found this through the Danish Offroad Sport web site www.greatescaperally.com sound fun to me, (with out ever having driven any Rallys, just dreaming and watching) Does anybody know more, the page is in polish, so Anders

Hi I have no experience with challanging and GPS, but for normal offroad, geocaching, scout trips and so on, which means getting weat, running without DC/AC for long periods, being easy to use i would recommend Garmin Quest 2 or the like. Waterproof, rugged, europe card, possible to use many coordinate types, and drive in straith line, and the best part - getting cheap as second hand unit as the oregon (my next GPS, for sure) models arrived. Only problem - small screen. Hope this helps. Anders