Mark

sounds like a Pullpal to me.... Mark

Barry, it looks like that would still be a bit low to me, using this picture from above: I guess you either need to bring the bar up or back, or possibly both.... of course I could be wrong, but without getting a protractor out it's difficult to tell from that angle... Mark

Barry, could you put a bar accross the truck, in between the side diagonal braces on the exo rollcage? It would mean either drilling large holes in the side of the truck, or making up some fitting flanges so it could be bolted through the sides though. That way you should be able to get the bar high enough to get the angles right, and so as not to encroach on the load bay too much... will draw a picture if it makes it any clearer? Mark

I trust you will be getting some longer bolts into those nyloks bish? looks good though, I like the flexibility :) cheers Mark

... but does rely on them being able to read...

Steve, I have moved your topic into the defender forum, as you will likely get a better response than in the series forum. In answer to your actual question though, a good start would be Les's article in the tech archive of how to fit a disco 200 tdi into a 90. The only big difference to your project I would have thought would be a bit more pipe to get the exhaust to come out the back... enjoy Mark

Bearing in mind lights tend to be left on for a little while, and things get warm, I would be inclined to use something that was rated at about twice the steady state load - that is at least a 40A relay. I think I used a 70A cos that is what I had.... No harm in running one relay with one switch. much simpler after all. May be just my paranoid over engineering though... Cheers Mark

having re-read your post - you want to use the main power feed to the relay to also provide switching power to the low current side? That should be fine, as the current draw of the relay is pretty minimal. I would however still be inclined to site the relays lower, and just run the control cables up the door pillar.... hth Mark

Al, How many spots? If I read right you are talking about 2 pairs at 55W per light. that means 220W at 12V will be drawing ~19A with all 4 lights on... to my mind this means you will need to power the relays separately using the cable you have. Have you thought about mounting the relays under the dash with the fusebox? Or, as I did, in the engine bay? This means you then only have to run the low current cables up the door pillar. You should be able to get away with only running 2 low current cables up to the roof pod, if you can find a decent earth up there - at worst 3 if you bring the earth back down again. That isn't explained too well, but I can do a quick diagram if you like? Cheers Mark

Never seen a supplier for the ones in the DG video, but there are a couple of guys involved with them round here... the vwp one works very well as a winch switch - I have been using one exactly like it for some time now... another alternative is a Carling version of it - same as the ARB locker switches, but mom-off-mom. I believe x-eng and mudstuff both stock them... cheers Mark

Just out of curiosity, will the regs be different between levels of event? ie Howling Wolf vs Challenger Series - or will they all be using the same set of rules and regs? Cheers Mark

1001 upholstery cleaner, a stiff brush and a vax?

Just, as a note, I have a 2.25 diesel 1968 LWB Series 2a and the overdrive is definitely the way to go. The diffs would be too tall for the lower gears, and the high ratio transfer box kit was designed for use behind a v8, so again too tall for a 2.25. A LWB will be running 7.50's anyway, so whilst taller tyres are an option you would need to be looking at 255/85's or the like. Just speaking from experience, but the overdrive is the right choice. Just a question of hunting round to pick one up. As has been said, pretty much any fairey overdrive will fit. hth Mark

First place - Premier Supply? They are a trade place, and pretty much expect you to know what you want by part number. They can be good, they can be variable. Second place - Hunters on ladymeade - There are a couple of guys in there who are really good, and a guy who is genuinely difficult, and seems to be the one who covers lunch times (when I tend to go in there...) - sounds like you got him on a particularly bad day.... generally, the information you need is here or hereabouts, so if all you do is walk in with a list of part numbers, there is very little they can do to muck it up for you! I believe there is a link in the tech archive for both the manuals and the EPC/microcat software so you can look stuff up for free, but nothing beats a paper parts catalogue for ease of use Sorry to hear you ran into a brickwall. I find you either get really good guys or really bad ones.... Mark

Mike (superpants) and I are definitely planning to be there exhibiting something.... we are not yet sure what though Mark

A good start would be to say where you (by filling in your profile, for example ) and someone will most likely recommend a club or a series that you could get involved with...

As julian says, they look safe enough to me. They are just holding the two plates apart - on a series land rover they are not joined together at all...

Similar to Si, I run my Mill with a 4HP motor on a 2HP inverter, which works OK so long as I ramp the speed up and down. It is a flat belt drive and dosn't have anything fancy like CNC involved, and works well for me. The lathes are in West Sussex, near Horsham. I have some pictures, if you drop me a pm with an email address I will forward them on. Cheers Mark

Chris, I know of both a master and a student that are for sale if you are interested? Also I am running my Milling machine using an inverter on my domestic supply, and it works very well. There is a chap who often advertises on www.homeworkshop.co.uk who often has second hand inverters for sale - that is where mine came from. He dosn't often have larger stuff (usually in the 2 or 3 HP range) but he might be worth a call. The other option is someone like Newton-Tesla who may be able to spec up a suitable motor and inverter package to convert an existing machine? My lathe has one of their systems on it (came with it when I bought the lathe) and it is very good. Cheers Mark

Jeff, Indeed I did get one of them from you. Do you have a 24 spline one for sale perchance???

I now have the drawings from Dave Ashcroft (Thanks Dave, much appreciated )which show the modification needed for my stub axles to take the AUE2522 CV's, and to be honest, it's very simple (so long as you have access to a decent sized lathe) - pretty much as will describes above. I have never heard the RR CV's described as strong before - it has always been the AEU2522 CV's that have always been hailed as the strongest of the Genuine CV's. I have heard of people using the outer stub shaft as a fusible link on these axles though, thus saving the inner shafts and the CV's but creating a weak point on the easy to get at shafts - This does seem like by far the cheapes option! To those who feel driver education is required, I can sypathise with the sentiment, but this is more about having the opportunity to build up good axles from scratch but with a limited budget. Given the general talk of 24 spline everything, and sadly the bills to go with it, I thought this might be of interest to quite a number of people on here. Thanks for the comments though chaps. Any more ideas for rear shafts or are the GKN ones the only after market ones?

Ah, just answered my own question.... Ref the 'Early CV's' page on the Ashcroft site: Mark

Hi Kelly, The AEU2522 CV's are early 110 ones. I am curious as to what needs to be done to get them to fit a Disco axle and if the Ashcroft CV's are a direct replacement for the AEU2522's.... Mark

Rhys, I am not really sure that makes much sense... Whilst I agree that a 4pin diff is stronger, you are essentially saying that they are still the weakpoint in the transmission, so they will still break before a shaft? which seems like a lot of expense for little gain? possibly I have not understood you, but as I have the ARB's sat on the shelf, it is less of a problem.... Cheers Mark

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