Tobias

Me too, I've been preparing for this for 5-6 years...

Anything in particular you’d like photos of, Gazzar?

Hi, I have started the long overdue mating of HP22 and HP24 parts. The purpose is to have a sturdy autobox for the 2.8 300tdi that will power the Pulse ambulance we are building. I start with the core of a 300tdi 1997 Discovery 1 autobox, ZF4HP22 Then I will pull front cover, oil pump, toque converter and "the internal bits" from an early RR P38 4.6 box, as has been vaguely described by Ashcroft and others over the years. I will use a conversion kit from M&D Engineering to mate the front cover to the 300tdi block. The 300tdi is bored and will get pistons, conrods and crank to make it into a 2.8, with tweaking of the injection pump I expect good oompf for steep hills in Norway and towing. Both boxes are torn down and the putting of internals into the box has started, but it is a pain to align everything and not drop something to have to start over, still not there... I add some pictures. Please add comments, questions and hints.

Fuel feed pump hasn't been mentioned. In connection with the cold making all pipes, hoses and their connections hard and less pliable, opens for sucking air. A weak lift pump makes it worse. I am currently struggling with a 300tdi auto that is low on power and slow starting. I fed it diesel straight into the injection pump from a small plastic bottle and it started right up and ran fine, even without glow plugs connected, so clearly the problem is on the feed side of the fuel system. Whereabouts are you? I am outside Södertälje and have tools and spares for 300tdi. No heated workshop, though. Tobias

Volvo Laplanded C202 is not Dana 60, it's Dana 44 based

Max boost is dictated by max fuel, basically. If you increase max fuel, the max boost will go up. This device will not increase max boost as such, it will delay the opening of the wastegate, as has previously been explained. In my opinion, it is a perfectly safe way to decrease lag and make the low end a bit better. Another way to make the turbo spool earlier is to increase the fuelling at low boost, causing black smoke. This makes the opposite, increases boost, reducing the (potential) for black smoke.

I've ran steel shot as in shot blasting shot. Small steel balls. If the tyre is moist inside or frequently topped up with moist compressed air, there is a fair bit of rust inside, but if they are dry on assembly and only normally reinflated, there is no significant amount of rust or dust, even after many years and miles of use. I attach two pictures from Norway last year. Here is what happens if you do NOT do as I say, but do as I do... I was in a hurry between two trips last year and left a tyre outside in the rain between taking it off a cracked rim and remounting it on a new rim. I was in a hurry, so didn't clean the water out thoroughly. A week and some 1000-1500 miles later, there was heavy imbalance in the wheel and we took it off to reveal what you see in the pictures. the shot had caked together due to the water and created very heavy vibrations. Cleaner rim and wheel and added normal weights, to get us home. then happily put steel shot in again. I put about 3-4 table spoons worth in each 285/75-16 tyre. 2-3 in smaller.

So, no votes for sheep wool fat and one vote for Bilt Hamber? Correctly understood? T

The civilian defender 2,5N/A mounts are similar, perhaps the same. I have managed to source genuine military wolf mounts, so all is solved. Thanks all for input. Tobias

This part of it inot important at all. Durability, reliability, time effort and cost of implementation is important. Having a fleet of 300tdi vehicles makes using the civvy spec attractive. Parts commonality. But how much do I need to modify the chassis to accomodate? All bolt on? I guess test mounting a transmission crossmember will tell me, if you can truly confirm that the engine brackets are physically the same.

According to the parts book for "Wolf" 2320-D-128-711, engine mounts ANR3548 (RH) and ANR3548 (LH), while civvy spec equivalents are ANR2868 and NTC9415, according to part books I have found online. Wolf uses brackets bolted to the chassis legs, as opposed to welded to the crossmember, which in turn is bolted between the chassis legs. Bracket numbers for Wolf: ANR2818, ANR2820. With corresponding differences in the brackets bolted to gearbox and transfercase.

I am building a Pulse Battlefield Ambulance replica. I have a chassis from a TUM 110 Wolf, including the removable crossmember, without the mounting points for transmission. I have civilian engine and gearbox mounts, including a transmission mount crossmember. Which route to go? Weld the civvy engine mounts to the inside of the chassis rails for the civvy engine mounts or try to procure the engine mount parts to mate with the Wolf spec engine mounts? Pros/cons? Will the civvy transmission mount crossmember fit in the holes in the TUM chassis, or do I need to drill/crush tube new ones? Better off source the military mountings bolted to the TUM chassis? it seems I can source the missing military bits, but it will be costing me £200-300, which will end up as 300-400 once in my hands, with taxes and so on after brexit. The civvy mount path needs some weld on mountings at ¨£30 and some welding and drilling time. Are the military mounts significantly better? What condition do they address? Do civvy spec 300tdis not stay in place? Thanks Tobias

As I wrote above. An ATB in front only is MARVELOUS! Aids in steering, self centering, avoids the heavy understeer in seriously slippery conditions, such as deep mud or snow, that you get with and ATB of locker in rear only. IAfter my experiences with rear only, front only and both, I would never put in rear only. Front first, then rear! T

Sadly, none of those have been used and abused to destruction, but sold... I am not counting the one's that were not for serious use, some of which have been scrapped to donate parts.

brake pedal is mounted to the bracket ounting the vacuum servo and master cylinder on the other side of the bulkhead/firewall. It should be possible to make a spacer to shift the whole brake assembly further intot he engine bay. If there is space there on a (i presume) RHD I do not know. Worth having a good look on the engine bay side of things. T

I have been thinking very similarly to you. This last summer was spent on a lot of long winding semi-hi speed gravel, where I went in and out of diff lock, to see what difference it made. After that I had a mail-exchange with Ashcrofts and they confirm that the backlash in the LT230 will be less than stock, so by going for the ATB in the LT230 I would gain less hassle/driver dependance on going in and out of low traction stretches, less backlash, less mechanical "unreliability". I like. For me, it will be worth the extra £395 or so, when spending considerable time and money on refurbing the LT230. Front axle: Fit an Ashcroft LTB! It improves road handling, it improves traction, it improves mechanical reliaility. Again, if you go in to do maintenance, fit it! I'v run Truetracs and Ashcroft LTBs on all my Land Rovers since about 2005 (I think six of them...) and it's the first thing I do as I buy one. After general service. It's worth it for the improved road handling alone! Rear axle. I've thought long and hard and leave mine stock. Salisbury. This was before I learned that Ashcroft are going to release an ATB for them... T

Thanks but it's a Pulse we've decided on. T

What the man at L Jackson, who export a lot of ex-MOD stuff, some civilians were standing in UK ports and were refused by UK customs to board the ferry because they were bringing Military technilogy" out of the UK without required documentation. He also stated that as a non-UK resident/citizen, I could not apply for the license. This was in discussion on Pulse or Pulse box body released from MOD through L Jackson going to me in Sweden. I have tried to get in contact with the Export Control Joint Unit to have confirmation or denial of these statements and also on the requirement of a license or not for a civilian owned Pulse, as seen on the bay, but no luck reaching through to them yet. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/standard-individual-export-licences Any help or guidance in this is more than welcome. Thanks Tobias

yes. Saw that today too, but thanks for mentioning. Since I posted this I've been in contact with L Jackson and they have both some RHD ambulances and boxes for sale. They claim it's impossible to export out of UK as a private person, let alone foreigner. Anyone know anything more about this? There is a beertruck for sale, at the -bay and it is sensibly priced, but I am afraid I would get stopped at the ferry, trying to bring it home. Tobias

Thread revival. Any news on Pulses for sale at the moment? Thanks Tobias

Sort of like this

the heater hose from head to heater.

You don't say how expensive expensive is. I have fitted this: https://www.devon4x4.com/diff-cover-d60.html and would do it again. It was available in black when I bought it. Tobias

Thanks! I changed the compatibility and then right clicker rave.exe and chose run as administrator. This worked!

No elevated rights popup. I don't know what that is... FridgeFreezers comment made me try to open the pdfs straight, but that redirects me to Acrobat homepage, presumably because of rader out of date. Tuko: I'd gladly take you up on that! Thanks Tobias