rusty_wingnut

its worth joining the club, alot of what you are asking is available through the club, including tyres.

I don't effing believe it!! I've just forked out for a V8 megasquirt and all I needed was some poxy side windows and seats!!!!! I think I might jump in the Thames

I test drove one, It was quick, but the clutch was really heavy, the cabin heater wasn't working and frankly I got in my little 'ol 90 after and at least felt like I was in control. I got underneath the demonstrator vehicle and was appalled at the amount of corrosion there, frankly it's overpriced and poor quality. You've made a sound choice I think

Agree

If the base vehicle is this bad why are you starting with it? Is it an attempt to save £200 a year? This overlanding thing seems a bit like an exercise in how many kitchen sinks I can carry across the Alps without my Land Rover once going wrong, you may as well use a vehicle from another brand, something like DAF for instance!! How on earth did we manage in the past with standard Series vehicles? There does seem to be a culture of "you NEED this" or else you might die or something ridiculous Frankly the best vehicle for the job is the Discovery that you are trying to immitate with a Series body on top! I can categorically say I have never been overlanding, but as someone who spent long periods travelling the length of Europe in a 2.25d 109 with my old man, and whose friends drove to Switzerland and back in Series 1s with nothing bigger than 1997cc under the bonnet, I will say you can go and over complicate things.

Seems to me like all you really need is to have the block bored, crank ground and some work on the heads. While you're at it you could have some skimming done and give yourself a little extra performance. The fact the cams are worn is easily solved, and a chance to buy a fresh profile for a bit extra "go", heads are easily reworked. It sounds like simple work just a bit time consuming. The engine I rebuilt for my Series 1 required many new parts and machine work, but I saw it as an opportunity to put my stamp on it and build something different. It goes better now than when it left the factory, no doubt. I could of fitted any other engine but I like retaining a hint of originality. I don't see why you couldn't start with your 3.5 and improve on the base spec. The fact you want to keep it 24V suggests you want to keep it fairly original?

Stick with what you know. Best advice I've recieved in recent weeks.

why not just locate a spare engine and rebuild that? Tbh if it just worn out rather than abused out it will be rebuild-able. Sometimes you've just got to suck it up and get on with it.

Another vote for Whitbreads, fantastic cage he made for me.

Hi Mickey, Yeah I'd love to have a look but one big problem, I am still sat on the otherside of the North Sea Any chance of a few pictures though? I'll admit I should have done a search before starting this thread, I dug this out: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12519 And i think I may try Nige's suggestion.

I would love to get something made up or make my own, but sadly at this point I don't have time and will be pushed to get the wiring finished for when I need it, so need something fairly easy and untime consuming Tacr2man was the standard 110 exhaust a 3.5 system? Anyone have any data on bore sizes for a 90 3.5 system? I know the Disco Y piece has around a 3" outlet

I have recently converted my 300tdi 90 to a 3.9 V8 with Cats. I have to retain the Cats for the MOT due to the age of both the 90 and the engine (both 1996 ). Does anyone know of a supplier for a mild steel mid and rear section? I have retained the Disco's downpipes and cats upto the Y piece. Basically I am looking for everything fromt he Y piece backwards. I've tried Paddocks and the hoplessly expensive Rimmer Bros, will a 3.5 system fit my chassis and the Y piece without to many mods?

I put a 3.9 in mine with Megasquirt

Can you turn up on the day? Might bring the Series 1 down

Anyone got the part number for an aluminium 80" bulkhead?!

With some clever electronics surely it could kick in at cruise rather than needing huge power to get a vehicle rolling.

more like it! I am sorely tempted to bang one fo my old Campag groupsets onto the 90 and present it for inspection, "yes Mr. VOSA it is the Record 11speed with compact chainwheels for better off road ability" Realistically, if there was a way of providing electrical power into the transfer box, run off one of the many batteries most people have on board, with a big alternator, is that a hybrid? Surely at that point you could fit a cheapo electric motor to "aid propulsion" and reduce engine emissions? Simonr!!!

Should read Puller and not pulled. Not good with these mobile devices

Some sort of home made pulled for the crank pulley!! Very important, you'll need a couple of M8 by 70 bolts,sone sort of rigid bar with two holes spaced to fit the pulley. Youuse thecrank bolt, loosened off my 20mm to provide the leverage. I can post you mine if you promise to give it back!!!!

For this reason I put mine straight into the manifold

Seems strange the clutch still feels normal and no noise. It would never had been the splints because of the age of the vehicle, fitted with crossdrilled gear. Does the gear lever feel normal, like it is actually engaging a gear? Weird clutch failure if it is!! If it is the clutch build yourself one of Les's updated release arms and fit the Rakeway heavy duty bearing.

I had two bicycles at Uni, I thought I was well off!!

You can machine up a new spigot so you can use a diesel gearbox with a V8. I have done this with my setup

seems like a sensible thing to do IMO, less risky for sure. Cheers for the info.

not without buying a VNT kit. Tbh though as someone who has tuned a Tdi and fitted a VNT I will say it's never going to be a rocket ship, and to get more out you have to put more in - if that makes sense!