rusty_wingnut

That's what I was thinking, They have one bonus - being better emissions rated, which may play a part in the future.

The TD4, I think will make an exceptional engine in a series, I am just a little unsure on the wiring side, but it can't be that complex? Through the years I've found the best engine (it's had two turbodiesels and two petrols) for my Series is the 2ltr petrol. With the compression up to something sensible, SU carb and a few other trick bits set up properly with a bit of time and I am enjoying the vehicle more than ever. Personnal opinion of course but don't write off a few cheap and simple modifications, that are easier than swapping the entire engine.

I would like to see someone should try something like the Freelander Td4, rather than yet another Tdi "because the masses said so."

Correct me if I'm wrong but when I placed the original answer you have not mentioned any oil loss in your OP? of course with the information then my answer is somewhat void, but it would really help if you explained the symptoms or reasoning for tearing your motor down, fully in the first place.

I've Britpart CVs for ages, and never broken them. Make sure they are the ones with the serated edges to the CV outer.

Jason, All year round these things sell, they are sort after. WIthout an MOT you won't see a massive return so my opinion would be to buy a cheapo set of 205s, put it on those, MOT it and then sell via the LRSOC. EBay after if no interest. A spares package is always good and will give a good impression of you the owner, which in turn will help a sale. PM if you need a hand. Dave.

Excellent, thanks so much Rob

If it's burning "oil" I have found with nearly every 2.25 that wear in the injection drive spindle retards the injection timing and creates blue smoke with minimal wear it can make a good engine look knackered. So obviously you will check the easiest things first, like valves seals before completely rebuilding an engine............. You can always loosen the bolts (only by a turn) that clamp the injectors and throw the engine over on the handle to loosen stuck injectors.

can you do us a favour and measure the distance between ports please, sort of determines if I can use it. I know ball park it is about right, but looking for someone to measure it up.

I've got a random idea in my head and I'm hoping someone on here can help me, I basically need the distance between centres of the exhaust ports and/or the manifold sizes. I'm too tight to buy one off ebay

and if you swap the engine to a diesel you become liable for it? Unless of course it is a csw and you can prove it.....

In my experience the 1.4 of the Tdi is perfect for everything, the 1.2 is just to much for it and doesn't make for an acceptable drive (even with the pump and turbo turned up). I have a 3.9 V8 now with a 1.2 and 235 85 tyres and this is a far better combination, I can safely tow another land rover on a twin axle at the regulated 60mph without trying hard. I am also get half decent economy with it, it is worse than my old 300, but petrol is cheaper and frankly having driven a V8 and had the performance I cannot begin to fathom going back to a slow diesel. I would try having the head skimmed on the 2.5, as well as a decent manifold and an SU carb with electornic ignition. This will improve it no end, improving power and efficiency in the process.

My 109 is very much non standard, all the main lumps are correct but I wired it myself and it's had a new rad etc. You're right sometimes you need to get it running over originality!

just usable Jason, I am going to do the sort of restoration where you save something because it is original/old rather than replace it with new because it will be better! I made that mistake with the 109 and have spent many hours refitting the original Series 1 equipment to that and undoing engine mods etc. The layers of paint over the original are flaking off, so hopefully we can keep her in original patina, get the vehicle running correctly and repair the rust.

Indeed the club are now producing many of the rare parts again, along with various other private interests. Radfords seem to produce the best chassis sections and did the galv bulkhead for my 109. if I remember correctly from rebuilding the engine on that, the pistons have to go in from below due to the size of the con rod big ends.

Yeah 2ltr spread bore, with all original wiring/fuel fixings complete! The panel beating is a minor thing compared to the rest, she needs extensive chassis welding, but is worth saving because of how complete it is, none of the horrible Land Rover bodges have been found. I think that with a replacement bulkhead and a few days chassis welding I can get it running again. I think that was my mate pulling it up the A283, it was found down Southampton way. I literally bought it unseen from my best pal, I've been after a swb Series 1 and this fitted the bill (money wise!) nicely. If anyone has a half decent 86/88/107/109 Series 1 bulkhead I would be ineterested to hear from you!

During the last minute "man rush" at the shops I was having my own shopping experience, picking up this delightful and highly original 1954 86" Series 1. The plan is to weld on a new rear cross and outriggers, then overhaul what's necessary and getting her back on the road ASAP. She was last taxed in 1976 so there is bound to be something wrong but I am willing to be naive and feed off the charm factor for now! Happy Xmas LR4x4

I pulled the entire engine and transmissions but that was with a JCB lol

V8

I heated mine up when I straightened it!

it looks likes a TD5 replacment crossmember. I guess the vehicle has been rebuilt using bits from a dead 300.

I found when I did mine a few years ago, that the blow lamp is your best friend for getting one of these apart, makes the whole process so much easier.

relay not latching?

I absolutely adore being blinded by these superbly powerful modern bulbs when out on my pushbike, so glad you can see so well now

mine did it for years