rusty_wingnut

Has anyone ever converted these bolts to studs?

awesome! Love the lwb Series 1 - proper motor that

On the gearbox front I read this: http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=54238 and got the impression it would fit. I could be wrong though and would welcome any input....

Looks interesting, perhaps that is the way to go then. Out of interest why not new (gen or not)? I have a 1996 3.9 from a Discovery with an auto attached, I want to keep my truck manual so I am going to try the trick of R380 V8 bellhousing onto Tdi R380 and modify the crank spigot in the lathe. The only really hard bit for me is engine mounts, I don't want to chop and modify the chassis so some fab is needed on the block mounts to link them to the tdi mounts. This could involve a huge amount of messing around with exhausts and all sorts, I have in my manifold collection: -P38 manifolds -Unknown tubulars -Standard 3.9 that came with the engine. One set must fit with my potential arrangement Standard Disco transfer 1.2 (235 road tyres) TD radiator, 3.9 manual clutch plates. Tdi Rakeway release bearing, 300tdi arm, 300tdi slave with extension pipe. And 4 days to get it all to work

have spent my pocket money this month with Nigel! and going from 300tdi to V8

talk to Si and it's not a jeep lol

Hi I am ordering up parts to convert my 90 to 3.9V8 and wanted a reccomendation on an out of tank pump that is reliable, typically a Pacet type. What do people use? Also ny hints on fuel lines to convert a Tdi tank would be useful. Cheers

Interior dependant I would sign the order book now! That with a nice 4 banger turbo diesel and a tasty petrol option will sell like hot cakes. Just a shame it's not for real

job done! PS back or front door?

I used Britpart kits, only thing that slgihtly lets them down is the glue, worth getting a better glue, but otherwise they're perfect.

mine had nothing apart from sheep ****

i think I know what this stuff is, can't say it is to impressive either. it's very thick and rubbery and a bloody nightmare to remove (if needed, for bolt tensioning etc) My chassis was done in an offshore spec epoxy coating and they are very tough, even when scratched they don't peel.

spot on Lee, as usual top stuff form the boys, well done. Only spectating this time and had a great time.

I had my defender fitted with some temperature logging device by a Scandinavian filter company, we concluded the Tdi does produce high enough temperatures, at the rough fitment point of the filter, to only require a simple filter system. So no need for extra dosing or post turbo fuel injection. The filter was £1800 but that was literally a filter in a box, no guarantee on making the VOSA test for emissions to reclasify it, and the sizing IIRC, was around 8" dia by 18" long - probably a bit too tight for a 90 but not for a 110. I have never received a proper engineering drawing of the filter, nor a picture. the informtation did come from the manufacturers though. So, I have decided to fit a V8 to my hardtop, the family 110 is going through reclassification (we hope) A friend of mine has an ex TD hardtop, now with a different body and 3.3ltr Mazda diesel engine, and he is classed as exempt. What justice is there in that? Where a vehicle with a huge diesel, that is a commercial, is exempt whereas my pukka hardtop with smaller Tdi isn't? I echo everything about his being a farce, frankly I feel terribly hard done by.

Late Series 3 24spline outer stuff makes this process a lot easier...

my mate has driven one and he was very impressed. He works with Land Rovers so obviously drives a fair few!

Jon I think your support is possibly to rigid, you need to eliminate the vibration, that is what appears to be causing the cracking. The support should be sprung enough to eliminate a large proportion of the vibration but still allow the mnaifold to expand and contract freely. PS love the useful comments such as "that manifold sucks" Love to see some of those guys efforts if you care to share?

The yield stress is a property found in the material of the CV, but the design is also a key factor. IIRC my CVs had a slightly different design to the original GKN's that came out. Whether this is to cope with a slightly lesser material who knows? But I will vouch for them and how hard they've been used. I pulled one out a few weekends ago and it looked as good as when it was fitted. No sign of the balls hammering the casing, or the splines being hammered over. The drive flange wasn't in such good condition

and now for the real world experience: Britpart CVs fitted for 3years, 30k miles. Tuned 300tdi with enthusiastic driver. Off road and on road, towing some seriously large things and taken part in the odd traffic light grand prix. Not broken either.

Both! Southern Coatings did my chassis powdercoat and it's still on there as good as new

buy mine, I'll even throw in an auto backplate for the engine!!

It was painted with Frosts manifold paint (only one type listed in their catalogue. It has peeled off some of the galv where I haven't 'keyed' it particularly well but I'm not fussed. Thanks for the comments chaps, I didn't hold much hope of it working tbh, just making the flanges took long enough - holesawing through 6mm steel isn't easy, but I'm lucky the old man has one of those really old quality pillar drills. I'm just pleased it works and we managed to keep it all straight throughout the welding process. The only thing I forgot was a bung for the lambda sensor for the Meqasquirting

I have managed that speed on mine and they're ok still. Might be a dodgy batch?

oh go on then The packaging of the engine is tricky as underneath the exhaust manifold is the exhaust rockers, and you need to be able to get the cover off still, ideally witohut removing the manifold. I have just about managed it but you have to be really careful with the cork gasket. I know the welding isn't perfect but it is suprisingly hard wleding round things

well I took DirtyDiesel's advice and bought a selection of elbows and pipe, fabricated some 6mm flanges and went for the 4-2-1 design. I spent a whole weekend cutting and welding pipe and elbows and the result is a manifold with 2 seperate flat mating faces that haven't twisted, with both 1&2 and 3&4 linking into each other and then into a big collector to link into a 2a downpipe.And it worked! The engine runs cooler on the back cylinders now and holds its power for longer. It also noticeably quicker on pickup.