zim

Where you from ?

As others have said, I think there is no point in doing this. Choose a temp and run it at that temp. Fwiw, your thermostat will have more effect. I.e driving down a road at a decent speed, your radiator cools without the need for a fan. G

Bill, we don't rate any landrover gear / shaft as strong enough here. God knows how many shafts, R+P and pegged diffs we've destroyed. G

You need at least 2 prox sensors. It then knows if it's on the left or right stroke. Centre is between the 2 prox sensors.

You need some proximity sensors or little micro switches controlled by whatever means possible ..... Then it's a few relays and some funky wiring I'm not sure how Rob and Barry set theirs up, but I came ip with a drawing where you click once on a button. Let go the button and it self centres - rather than having to hold it ghe entire time until centre. It also had a cancel feature by which if you pressed right or left. It would cancel the centering G

Good to hear

Does this mean you're keeping the buggy ? ??????

We have some good ones, but they didn't have them in stock. 8" is pretty long.

As per title, I'm looking for some bolts to use with johnny joints. I would prefer to use 9/16 and not M14. Need approximately 8" long - 200mm ish. As well as some 4 1/2" long. I can't find any online. Cheers Gordon

On the subject of terrafirma, where is the cheapest place to get them at the moment ?

Hi, I was wondering if anybody knew of any companies in the UK with the ability to test the breaking point of half shafts ? For some R+D i'd like to do. Thanks Gordon

I think we need some pictures of your "workshop".

A D80 is a big (very strong) diff ! A d70, also big but like Bill says very similar in size to a 60. You can fit the 70 gears into the 60 to save a bit more space, but the 70 has bigger steering C's and knuckles anyway. The 'optimum' rear axle i have to say is a 14 bolt, with a shave on it i've got the same clearance as a LR diff - but can now handle 500hp. These can be made into front axles as well if you so wish and are prepared to do the work. I seem to be have been collecting an assortment of axles over the past year (D80, D60, 14b's, 404's ) G

The above axle is on chrome balls. When you come down to the lockup i'll show you the dana 80, now that looks like it came off a JCB ! G

Yes spectators are welcome ! It's always good to walk around and watch others. Mr Booth was kind enough to schedule all the events whilst i'm offshore :(

Is Mr HFH to blame for this, you break something and assume i've done likewise :p :p We've not broken swivels like that before. Anyway, i'm really gentle with my drivetrain.....

The swivel housings are not easy to weld to. Took a bit of prep work and preheating with Ni rods. G

Hope that wasn't too many pics. It's for sale if anybody wants it. No shafts, just axle housing and modified hubs. You won't find stronger LR swivels. G

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=75414 Pictures don't work now. I'll post some here :

I run engine and steering cooler in the front and a big gearbox cooler in the rear. G

Excellant !

Cast or not, they weld really nice. When I did my steering arms we didn't have any problem welding to them. G

Wheels fit Axle and truss mocked up with 4 link Bending new rear lower chassis Notching difficult parts made easy ! Which fits Mocking up parts Rolled outside on solid shocks The basic idea, few small changed made What it needs to get used to Wheel base is 108" G

Thanks, just wanted confirmation.

Morning, I don't have a LR prop near me but was wondering if someone could confirm. Maybe Si ? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22112&hl The bottom pdf attached to that thread. Is the a standard defender / RRC / older disco prop flange pattern ? The reason i'm asking is i need to get a yoke for my 14 bolt but have to make sure i can fit a LR bolt pattern on it. G