Jump to content

zim

Settled In
  • Posts

    1,972
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by zim

  1. Carl I like yours. But not that easy to put a Chevy box onto an rv8. For all the hassle it may as well just get a Chevy lump.
  2. Carl hurst is making some nice ones now Have a look at eBay item 161038672876 G
  3. The general consensus from what I can find, is yes the diff is running in the wrong side. But due to the sheer size of the ring gear coupled with the fact that there is a third rear pinion bearing they're awfully strong. Tim Cameron et al have given them a pretty good testing session! Although his new buggy is on d80's now. But they're only marginally / argueably stronger. Along the lines of a torq 14, it will be a drop out diff
  4. Cheers for the input. I've got a standard 14 bolt rear for now. Going to try centre rear diff, if I'm ok then will possibly upgrade to 40 spline, if not will then rebuild axle housing (with 40 spline stuff).. Going to get my arb machined to suit 40 spline shafts before I install it. The front is a very special 14b, details when it arrives will be stronger than the back strangely enough. G
  5. Ok. I have a th350 and a th400 in the workshop, but in order to mate these to an RV8 and LT230 wouldn't be worth the hassle be better just to go LS. Which for the time being i'd rather avoid. I do also have a 4hp24 from my p38 that i can swap bits over if / when i break this one. G
  6. The aluminium housing version come helicoiled from factory 3/8 UNC as said above. Not difficult to find. G
  7. Hi, Well i've seen the light and am upgrading from plastic landrover axles to yank. Axles proven to take 600+ bhp and 44's, so i'm fairly confident i won't break them with my 4.6. But what is the next weakest link in the drivetrain ? I'm currently on : ZF 4hp22 from LSE LT230 1.6 Transfer box, but this can be changed to 1.4 or 1.2 which we have Bailey morris props which have a 1310 UJ's from memory, not sure how i'm going to mate them to my new axles. Front one will have a 1480 yoke, haven't decided on the rear yoke yet. I'll run my 35" boggers where neccessary but wish to use 44" boggers most of the time. How strong are the LT230 ? I've heard they're pretty robust. Cheers Gordon
  8. Nige, on a totally different topic. Looking at the above picture, does your hydraulic return come into the top of the tank ? Does it have a pipe in the tank that goes downwards ? The reason i ask (if you're unaware), is that hydraulic return lines should enter the bottom of the tank below the fluid level to stop aeration in the tank. G
  9. When I lifted my fly press onto its bench in the shop I used the LR's winch through a snatch block off a big beam. To get it in and out my pickup we used forklifts. G
  10. Nige, have a look at my thread where I'm asking about using a p38 crank sensor. There are photo's showing the differences
  11. Nige, have a look at my thread on here. We made gussets that work well. We've used the centre winch as both a front and back without bending it. We're on a TSS with bow 2
  12. What are you after ? I can't remember if i did a build thread. I have pictures on my facebook, but my internet is too slow to post all of them. It's had a variety of engines and gearboxes ! But currently on a 4.6 with 4hp22. And since we began it's broken more diffs and shafts than you can imagine G
  13. Nige, on a different topic. The 4.6 you sent me didn't run very nice. But i think you said it was a tweaked one from a "naughty" engine. I've reverted to another one and it seems ok. Only done an hours use to test fuel consumption LOL (8 litres / hour). G
  14. Slindon is an awesome site ! 250 miles each way for us There seem to be a lot of replies on here where people say they will attend etc etc.... Why not give some local challenges a go ? You don't need to have a fully tricked up truck, sections are optional so you don't have to attempt if you don't wish. The LRS series is very good for this, they setup both "easy" punches as well as "interesting"ones. Other series' are similar. G
  15. Offshore we just use heat exchangers (and i assume thermostats within pipework). Sea water in one end and out the other. Coolant running through plates within / next to the sea water plates. Engines warm up quickly if you loose sea water though ! G
  16. My breathers don't go to the inlet or plenum. Those ports are blocked. Too many rolls where you fill your inlet with oil. G
  17. I run an overdrive and 3.54's with a 3.5 v8, much more comfortable on the motorway G
  18. Much more reliable than a LR http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Amazon-VX-4-2-TD-expedition-ready-2-spares-roof-rack-/171036295927?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27d28ec2f7 G
  19. Delete please. I replied about a v8. Not worked on this diesel. G
  20. 3 phase is also nice, you can vary the speed, have soft start as well as reverse. G
  21. I run a kent cam in my 4.6. Can't remember which one H180 from memory, something like that - search on here i've posted before. I gained a bit of low end power and lost a bit of fuel economy LOL. v8tuner is very friendly and will offer you advice if you call him In my 3.5 and 4.2's i ran crower 50229's from memory, same sort of thing where you mainly gain torque. Not sure on fuel economy changes as they're only offroaders. G
  22. Gwyns are spot on Not worth the hassle of making your own to be honest.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy