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zim

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Everything posted by zim

  1. We'll see Shaved the 14 bolt ring gear last night. Used some tips that i've never tried before which worked really well. (CBN). Tried some ceramic ones that i bought, but weren't as good as the CBN. Just did small 5 thou passes. Nice mirror finish G
  2. Evening, We've broken the little guide key in the tailstock of our roundhead colchester student. We'll try and repair it, but was wondering if anyone knew where to source spare parts for these old lathes ? Sits in this hole : Cheers Gordon
  3. Dan, you tend to find bomb holes etc are the length of a normal landrover. Drive up with an 88" and it seems awfully steep awfully quickly LOL G
  4. So you called a TOFS, i assume you then checked if you had a PTW in place along with a JSA that had been completed with its RA. Hopefully this was all addressed at the TBT, whilst you were filling in your Check Card. Were any START / STOP cards completed ? Got to love industry hey ! More time doing paperwork than the job G
  5. We use the big 3/4" norbar ones at work. They get checked quite regularly and always seem ok. G
  6. This is a big thing. If you've only ever used a certain vehicle, then i think it's only natural to say "it pulls like a dream", it's once you start using others that you realise how they all compare. I towed for a good while with my 4.6 p38, that was nice, but not as much power as a newer tdv6 disco etc. Having used a 2.5 shogun / pajero, they're also nice but lack the power like the similar 2.8td has - again they're also nice. Another really good contender are the landcruisers, they have a lot of grunt ! G
  7. My codriver James tows with a disco 2 td5. It really lacks starting off power, any big hills it "battles" on. We've round the defender to be better in this application, possibly due to the difference in transfer box ratio. I use a yank ford superduty 3.5 tonne, 158" wheelbase with a 6.0 in.... Not comparable to any LR vehicle, sorry. A massive help is the transmission brake (like exhaust brake). Gordon
  8. The top one with the little canister is a pressure gauge switch (variable). The one on the right is a low pressure switch, i.e. closes circuit at or below a certain pressure. The one on the left looks like it could be a temperature sender. Take them out and check : Pressure switch : https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRFRoV0Rtwb5XjzZ29KTqrz33O7-MuyIiye9dJZtSG56aGebZVh Temp : HTH G
  9. Bill - don't have anything against a salisbury rear axle. But it's back to the thing of we have an axle in the workshop that is good for 500bhp and 44's vs a salisbury which is not as strong. It'll be a centre diff, this is one of the reasons for moving it back. My engine is already about 6" back, so the rear prop is pretty short. The front axle could be moved forward because we don't have to worry about the steering links (only pipes), but we're happy where it is now and our approach angle. I don't have an ARB for this rear axle, have a detroit but it suits the thin gears - 4.11's are thick so no good to me. Hopefully an RD114 will be on it's way over from the states soon. Dan - the next buggy will be 4ws with a wheel base of probably about 110ish. At the moment climbs are horrible with the 88" wheelbase, we want more stability for this. G
  10. Series 1 lwb. So yeah, just a totally random number we picked ! Subject to change though.
  11. We don't wish to swap the front axle (ok, we do, but not worth the hassle) because we like the hydraulic steering setup. The money involved in changing that completely to another one would be quite expensive. I have a set of other steering axles currently on their way to build a totally new truck, so this is a temporary thing. G
  12. When it takes a month to get a replacement warranty shaft, to which they initially said i should pay for (despite the lifetime warranty) - it tends to annoy you. We've broken 6 of their shafts in 18 months along with numerous stub shafts. G
  13. Good luck with Kam, i've had nothing but trouble with them. Not the product, just the service. G
  14. We wish to go 4 link as described above because it is easier to fabricate links etc. We don't have any problems with the standard LR A frame. We also want to test it out before building the next truck. G
  15. Morning, I've got a couple problems with my buggy, first off the drive train is too weak and secondly the wheelbase is too short we think. So a couple nights ago we decided to cut the back off and stretch the wheelbase. At the same time we're going to fit a GM corporate 14 bolt rear axle. We're not sure on what to do for hubs, got a few possible options - machine new hubs to 5 stud, remachine old hubs and weld on 5 stud flange or run 8 stud rear wheels with an adapter to suit LR discs. Will decided down the road. We're going to switch to a 4 link rear suspension. Going to shave the bottom of the diff for added ground clearnance (it has a 10.5" ring gear!). I've got som 4.11 gears from the states, so this will match my front LR axle ratio, which unfortunately will still be weak This is with the wheels mocked up at 107 : G
  16. the TC should be fitted all the way back into the gearbox before mating it up to the engine. Otherwise you'll wreck the oil pump. G
  17. Dan, we've tow started a trialer before. Sorry not sure on the ins and outs of how the oil pump runs. Edit - unless as you say he had a tf ?
  18. Come downhill in 1 st gear and you have engine braking. You can bump start an auto if you tow it fast enough, not fun though. Or just carry a spare starter - we do. I don't think they're any less reliable than a manual sorry G
  19. Why manual ? Drive an auto before you dismiss the idea. A lot of trialers and challenge trucks use them. Don't know your wheelbase but mine is auto in an 88 with engine back about 6". G
  20. I like your LC even if it does run out of juice haha. But I agree with Chris, since moving up to something bigger and heavier (never mind power) it's a lot more comfortable. Mine weighs in at nearly 3.5t empty. G
  21. Mike, I bolt mine downwards. Trust me in saying they're fine like this. We've used them heavily for a few years now. G
  22. It would be some form of ls. A gen IV would be nice, price dependant.
  23. So that when you roll you don't fill your inlet full of oil. Easy to hydraulic an rv8. G
  24. We'll see Carl lol. May just end up biting the bullet and go chevy. The pros out way the cons. As said above, it's the C's and knuckles which are the limiting factor. I've got a set of 4.11 gears on there way over at the moment so can run a rear with my LR front. For the time being.
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