zim

How long was the call ? Top man to deal with.

Shave plate on. 4 johnny joint bosses done. pair of LR stud pattern 14 bolt hubs done. G

We use coogar 5 with the mig and argon with the tig. The latter being more expensive and finishing quicker ? G

Did you get sorted with yoke pieces ? I possibly know of a place near here, will have to find their info.

Dan, going to try it without the centre bore. Yes LR discs and calipers. Finished machining the second hub today, interference fit also. Welded up a lot of the truss today as well, before welding it to the axle to avoid bending the tubes. Spent the rest of the day machining 1 1/4 NF bosses for Johnny joints. Tomorrow will weld up hub and weld on shave plate, new filler rods came on Friday G

It's too late now. But if it's a mile off i could just face it off. I doubt it'll be much. It was an interference fit when it went on. I'm not the welder, a close friend is. Tig's for a living. G

Been away at work quite a lot. Welded the hub up today. Will machine up a load of suspension bosses this week as well as finish the other hub and weld the shave plate on. G

35" Baja MTZ's with no lift and standard running gear [Hides from LR police :P :P ]

I currently have winch parts in the US which the bloke wouldn't ship international...doh

My f250 diesel powerstroke runs the oil a few degrees hotter than water temp. On my rv I run the oil and water at about 80-90. It's too easy to cool the oil so make sure if you have a fan on the cooler it is controlled by a thermo switch.

I agree with the above about removing the stat meaning cavitation, but when you rear mount a rad you are adding back pressure. You now have an extra 12ft of probably 38mm hose that is giving you back pressure. I've run my 4.2 and now 4.6 without a stat for ages now, heater circuit is blocked as well. I have a bleed point on the engine, but no little hose returning from a high point. The top hose on a v8 is pretty much the highest point though. I've rolled it many times and never had any issues with air locks - touches wood. G

I agree with the above about removing the stat meaning cavitation, but when you rear mount a rad you are adding back pressure. You now have an extra 12ft of probably 38mm hose that is giving you back pressure. I've run my 4.2 and now 4.6 without a stat for ages now, heater circuit is blocked as well. I have a bleed point on the engine, but no little hose returning from a high point. The top hose on a v8 is pretty much the highest point though. I've rolled it many times and never had any issues with air locks - touches wood. G

Neil at Rakeway had them on the shelf.

Best option : Fluke Simples ?

What can was it ? Physically it will fit. I moved an aftermarket cam from my 3.5 which had very little use to my 4.2 G

I've got lengths of railway line into the ground about 3 ft. Then got multiple 6 ft scaffold bars hammered in at various angles, but touching the railway. Weld all together and then add concrete. G

Dan, the ram works fine apparently. I can get a really good scrub radius as well, as I'm yet to make my rims. The brakes are from ouverson, the disc is about 330mm and calipers are made in house by them. Have a look on google for their site. Nige, how come you say they aren't 35 ? Kevin from kam didn't believe me either despite sending a photo with tape measure - he accused me of lying and said I was swapping wheels for events.

Yes.

Bill, The shafts splines are bigger than the shafts diameter. This is the correct way of making shafts. i.e. This is a view from the front : Off to work tomorrow, so this is all packed away for the next month. G

I was referring to the stud pattern, 8 lug x 6.5" pcd. My 16.5" rims fit over the brakes fine as do my 16's. The disc is 13", but the caliper is pretty snug. Will be built for challenging / off road speed events as they're becoming more popular here and across europe. G

The front will be an ouverson 47 spline inner and out shaft, with a 14 bolt drop in diff. Same hubs and brakes as this rear 80. Using a spool - which is why i can run 47 spline inner shafts (can't get an arb to fit them). If a spool is causing issues, then i can drop down to 40 spline and add an ARB. My original plan was to run fiddles both front and back, but have decided to just have them on the rear and stick with a solid front. With hydro steering i am not too fussed about this. No, not going to shave the diffs. The rear will be fitted as is, minor modifications to suit suspension. The front will be offset to the right. I currently have 44" boggers to go on, but with different event rules i may well end up running my current 35's or end up getting a set of 40's, and then just swapping wheels for events. The rims will all be 8 x 6.5 G

I beg to differ on that, i think we'd have more joy welding coke cans together than the LR stuff. Thanks, not very practical around town but otherwise perfect ! Not yet got an engine. But will be some form of LS. Circa 500 - 650 hp. There is also a TH400 on that pallet, which has been fully rebuilt with Coan internals, so should take any power i can give it. Also an np203/205 doubler on there for transfer. G

Evening, Took delivery of the axle that i'm going to be running on the rear of my next buggy. Dana 80 diff ARB EDM'd out to 40 spline Ouverson 40 spline 300m shafts Ouverson 47 spline 300m outer shafts with violator joints Ouverson super 8 hubs and 6 pot brakes Steering Come off a buggy in the states and had it shipped over. 47 vs coke vs 14 bolt vs LR 24 vs 40 47 spline = 2" 40 spline = 1.75" 14 bolt = strange 30 spline which is the same as conventional 35 spline = 1.5" 24 spline LR = about 3mm OD made out of plastic G

Shannon Campbell's buggy from the US

Cut it out a little bigger, using a grinder. Roundish, doeesn't have to be perfect. Drill a hole in the middle so we can hold it in a chuck (or let me me do that) and then i can machine the outside round for you. I fly out to work on Sat, so will have to be one evening this week, won't take long to skim. This is for the cover. For the bottle, just cut it out with a grinder and then fettle it with a flap disc in a grinder to get it round. I'm not holding a calor bottle in my lathe LOL G Edit : Just reread your post, you wish to cut a hole in a piece of plate that you can weld to the top of the bottle. If so, this could fit in the lathe and we could bore the inside to be round. The maximum size i can hold is about 13" round or 13" diagonally if square.