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Ok, So i opened the switch panel up on my milling machine today. And found that all the "Stop" buttons have a wire joining each switch. There are 4 switches for different motors / pump. So from this, i've had a think and a look on google and come up with this drawing. Is it ok ? It saves me modifying any wiring in the switch panel. I'll remove the complete contactor board from the back of the machine and fit 3 of my own (main motor, coolant pump and power feed). I assume i can use 240v single phase to switch all 3 contactors ? Found this, which i've modified a bit : http://claydons.org/public-html/elec/startstop.gif http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/contactors/6851551/ G

Thank you.

Ok, I realise that the simple fact that i'm asking this question probably means i shouldn't be doing it myself...but hey, we all have to learn ! I don't know a lot about mains electric. I'm wanting to wire up a single phase suds pump on my new milling machine. It already has 2 seperate push buttons for on and off. Is this the best way to do it : ? Thanks Gordon Edit : Is this the correct contactor ? http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/contactors/6851551/

ear plugs.

Mike, you don't gain / loose any volume with a winch motor, not like a cylinder that requires oil to fill it. My tank is about 15 litres and never had a problem. When challenging we use our winches all day long. Make sure your return is into the bottom of the tank, not top. G

I had the rad switch in a little boss (in right of pic) connected to a 2" long hose at the bottom of the inlet... Didn't warm up at the same rate as the rest of the water, so knocked a housing up on the lathe. It also has a 5/8 UNF hole for my temp gauge and a 1/8 NPT that we could use as a bleed if required. The p38 steering pump doesn't seem to work well enough for the hydraulic steering, but will fiddle a bit more with it before swapping to the ZF74. G

You'd prefer a lever than a solenoid. Being able to feed it in or out slowly is nice G

Yes, it's below 2.7t

Thanks. I have a fair few end mills and slot drills, but not a lot else. A few slitting saws but no arbour for them. Neither do i have an adapter to hold MT drill bits. The majority of my drills are MT2 / MT1 but got a few bigger MT3. Suppose i'll also need some normal drill bit chucks........ All money though G

That's factory fit for a P38, not normally seen due to the engine bay / bonnet. Thanks for the msq On the 4 wire lambda you sent, am i correct in assuming to just join the 2 white wires ? G

My inverter can't do that. It's only got 1 set of settings. They are ER32. Can someone tell me what this type of collet holder is please, as in what is my quil ? 30int ?

Cheers. I'll give this one a try. If it freaks out then we'll fit the older style which we know works really well. There is already a 12v compressor fitted as backup. Fired her up tonight, set the trim angle to 20 - didn't start first time, but not getting an RPM reading so swapped the VR sensor wires over it fired up. Took a short time just to prime all the oil system and then ran / sounded ok. Was just running off my 4.2's msq. Tomorrow i'll get it running properly. New VR1 20/50, sitting at about 45psi when cold. Got a few little things to sort. Need to get an end crimped on the P38's power steering hose. It's the correct shape to route around everything, my hydraulic hose with banjo is a pain to fit where it needs to go. Also need the mushroom part of a remote oil filter, the bit that holds a sandwich plate on - not a clue where mine are, we've got a couple somewhere ! Currently using another filter to hold the sandwich plate on but won't be able to drive like this as it'll hit the diff. Hope the hydraulic steering works ok with the P38 pump, or i'll be swapping that as well for the ZF74. G

Thanks for the replies I guess my next question will be about collets. I'll have a proper look when i'm in the garage later, but a quick look on google and they look like some form of ER collet system. Unfortunately today i shall be getting my 4.6 p38 megasquirt running. G

Si, What would happen to my inverter if (inverter is 2.2kw): a) the motor is more than 2.2kw ? b) are all motors ok to be wired at 240v ? On a slightly different question, i need to find a switch so that i flick my inverter from the lathe to this. Will a changeover switch work ? I just need to switch the 3 x wires for the motor power. The inverter then uses a 12v switching system for everything else (on / off / fwd / rev / E stop), i can sort that out easily enough. G http://www.electricmotorsandinverters.com/pdf/TECO2SpecificationSheet.pdf

Sorry my pictures are a bit dark : (The quil feed handle is missing - not sure of the proper name, need to source one) If this helps to id the motor. There is no info plate on it : The fan has seen better days. G

Ideally i'd like to know what model it is and want a manual for it. What sort of age is it ? I'd like to know what the motor is ? And can i run it on 240v 3 phase ? If not i'll get a new motor. For the rest i guess we'll have to have a crash course (literally!) with a friend's dad..... G

Ok... Got this for a good price, so don't say get a bridgeport It's an Ajax. Not sure which model. Google doesn't say a lot, apart from it's a beefy bridgeport copy. Damn heavy ! I'm unsure what hp the motor is, hopefully 3hp or less so that i can run it on my inverter. It's got a 48" wide table and the DRO works Does anybody know much about these mills ? I've never touched one in my life....... The fly press in the bottom of the picture was also with it G

Agree with all of this. When you put the TC back on, keep on rotating it - you'll feel the splines line up, drop back a bit....then carry on rotating until it stops dropping on. You'll feel it. G

Dropped the engine in, still got to connect it all up. The air con pump sits pretty close to the turret Tapped the air con to 3/8 and 1/4 bsp for the on board air. Also got some M20 x 1.5 : 1/2 BSP fittings for the oil cooler pipes. I'm going to use the 4.2 plenum as this is easier for little things - kickdown cable, idle control valve etc. I've replaced the oil pump gears whilst it's been out. It had a new water pump not to long ago - hope this is ok for a rear mounted rad. The previous vee belt version was fine. I'm not running a thermostat in this and have removed the heater matrix loop. (I think it'll be ok without a stat as it previously used to run at the rad fan switch temp - 88ish. I had a 72° stat fitted. This is also only a challenge truck) G

I put 75 litres of super unleaded into my Ford a few months ago. Realised just before it was totally full. Towed it (3.5 tonne!) back with a little 88" v8 LR and spent the next hour draining it ! I was lucky though, the tank was pretty empty so the fuel that came out i could use in my buggy / series 2a - just mixed a bit in every time we went out. It was an expensive fill that day though - 75 litres of super unleaded then 120 litres of diesel to fill the tank afterwards ! G

Send ashcroft an email. They're very helpful. Gordon

Not sure, in the past i've had a 10 spline axle that i wished to put 24 spline internals - didn't fit G

24 spline shafts don't fit through 10 spline stub axles.

Read this : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/924706-portal-axle-rockwell.html

In your case it would have fitted as standard. As i've had to get a 4.0's setup to make mine work. (well i hope ! it's not in yet !)