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300TDi overhaul

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I am about to overhaul my D1's 300TDi engine after 390 000+ kilometers

Any tips/tricks/warnings that I need to follow ?

Much obliged

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It's a straight forward durable engine, recently rebuilt my 379,000 mile 200tdi, thread in the Defender forum.

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Thanks Western

The idea was to overhaul the engine later, but the oil pressure warning light came on on Friday, and when I checked, the dipstick showed enough oil, and the pressure sensor wire was connected

The engine sounded good, so I proceeded home slowly, and travelled another about 20km before I could feel the engine was loosing power. I then switched off immediately

I will now give the engine a thorough overhaul

I suspect a faulty oil pump 

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As you suspect the oil pump, why not change thar. It's not a bad job. I did mine in a garden in ZA

 

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I am retiring in 10 months time, then the Disco will be my touring vehicle, towing an off-road trailer. I was planning for a total engine overhaul at the end of February, so this incident has just brought the overhaul forward by 3 months. I might as well do it now

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18 hours ago, western said:

It's a straight forward durable engine, recently rebuilt my 379,000 mile 200tdi, thread in the Defender forum.

What is/was the oil change frequency on the engine, and what oil do you use ?

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One thing I could mention you should be aware of is the "keyway" on the crank for the oil pump rotor. In their wisdom they deleted the tried and true separat oilpump that was driven by the cam, and fitted one directly driven off the crank on the 300. But this now means that a lot of wear is directly on the crank. And with that many miles its highly likely to be well worn. So definitely check that when you take it apart. Other than that its a pretty straightforward engine to Work on

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Thanks SF

I think you might have touched on the reason for my oil pump issue. Maybe the Woodruff key has sheared off, and the pump managed to turn for a while untill it stopped

Is there a crankshaft keyway fix ?

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Well its not  a woodruff key, its kind of hard for me to explain, English is not my native language.

Its more like big flatblade screwdriver (very big) But just as a flatblade screwdriver it only really rests on the ends, which is why its so easy to ruin a flatblade screw. And being a diesel it rocks back and forth all the time eventually wearing not only the rotor of the pump but also the crank.

Sadly google can't help me with any pictures of the engagement on the crank

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Sabre. When I took mine apart, there wasn't anything visable from what was the loi pump gear. Oh Yes. I did 40km with no oil pressure. Apart from a set of big end shells and a new oil pump the same engine has reaches 249, 500 miles 

 

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4 hours ago, Sabre said:

What is/was the oil change frequency on the engine, and what oil do you use ?

my oil changes were very infrequent, but the engine just kept plodding on, 

IIRC the book states oil & filter change every 6000 miles a good 10W/40 or 15W/40 

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6 hours ago, mmgemini said:

As you suspect the oil pump, why not change thar. It's not a bad job. I did mine in a garden in ZA

 

I'm guessing you have not seen a 300TDI oil pump!!!  Not a simple job.  One of the many things screwed up when they developed the 300TDI...

 

 

 

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There was a topic taking about 300tdi oil pump recently can't put my finger on it just now, but the generally thought was as the pump drive lacks a proper engaging "key" that the super high crank pulley bolt torque was due to the force actually squeezing the oil pump drive so the connection was made due to the compression effect on the oil pump drive rather than a traditional keyway type of drive. If that makes sense...

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3 hours ago, Soren Frimodt said:

Well its not  a woodruff key, its kind of hard for me to explain, English is not my native language.

Its more like big flatblade screwdriver (very big) But just as a flatblade screwdriver it only really rests on the ends, which is why its so easy to ruin a flatblade screw. And being a diesel it rocks back and forth all the time eventually wearing not only the rotor of the pump but also the crank.

Sadly google can't help me with any pictures of the engagement on the crank

Thanks Soren, I am sure I will see the "offending" key in real life soon ;)

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2 hours ago, mmgemini said:

Sabre. When I took mine apart, there wasn't anything visable from what was the loi pump gear. Oh Yes. I did 40km with no oil pressure. Apart from a set of big end shells and a new oil pump the same engine has reaches 249, 500 miles 

 

I will give it to these engines, they are tough blighters !

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1 hour ago, western said:

my oil changes were very infrequent, but the engine just kept plodding on, 

IIRC the book states oil & filter change every 6000 miles a good 10W/40 or 15W/40 

I am getting even more respect for your 200 TDi :lol:

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1 hour ago, Red90 said:

I'm guessing you have not seen a 300TDI oil pump!!!  Not a simple job.  One of the many things screwed up when they developed the 300TDI...

 

 

 

Thank you very much for this clip, very informative !

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2 hours ago, Maverik said:

There was a topic taking about 300tdi oil pump recently can't put my finger on it just now, but the generally thought was as the pump drive lacks a proper engaging "key" that the super high crank pulley bolt torque was due to the force actually squeezing the oil pump drive so the connection was made due to the compression effect on the oil pump drive rather than a traditional keyway type of drive. If that makes sense...

Well on the three engine I've had apart it hasn't been the case! They where all worn on the crank, though only one of them very badly and it had done 540.000km's. But still, a rather stupid design to wear the crank instead of a replaceable gear.

 

2 hours ago, Red90 said:

I'm guessing you have not seen a 300TDI oil pump!!!  Not a simple job.  One of the many things screwed up when they developed the 300TDI...

Indeed.. 200TDI FTW! :D 

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WHAT KEY ? There wasn't any key on my 300Tdi for driving. Just 4 small fingers on the driven gear that sat on the flats on the nose of the crank.

A very SIMPLE if time consuming job.

Make sure that you replace the fuel pipe banjo's the correct way.

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42 minutes ago, mmgemini said:

WHAT KEY ? There wasn't any key on my 300Tdi for driving. Just 4 small fingers on the driven gear that sat on the flats on the nose of the crank.

A very SIMPLE if time consuming job.

Make sure that you replace the fuel pipe banjo's the correct way.

There is no key, if you read Mavericks post again, he mentioned a lack of a proper 'key' :) 

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Woodruff keys are usually provided for location rather than drive. 

Securing the drive is usually taken care of by a taper on the shaft and the boss.

Or so I remember it from the general engineering module when I was in college when I were a lad.

🤔

Mo

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How do I get a good supply of oil to all the moving parts before I start the engine after the overhaul. No distributor shaft to turn with an electric drill, ala V8 ;)

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prior to first start up of my rebuilt 200tdi, I left the fuel solenoid wire off & span the engine over on the starter until my oil pressure gauge rose to a decent level, then reconnected the fuel solenoid wire & did a normal start & let it idle for a few minutes.

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Yup, just do it on the starter :)

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