Stellaghost Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 6 minutes ago, dirtydiesel said: Staggering engineering and ingenuity Stephen. 44 pages took some catching up on! I don't know if your research has turned this up but there are 2 different styles of ring and opinions used in 404's one style has a very odd ring gear design that breaks quite easily. I can't tell from the pics which style yours is. Earlier in the thread (page19) you asked if anyone had lightened or broken an axle case. I've never lightened one but I have broken 1. And repaired anothe that tibus offroad built, theres snapped in the middle where they'd done a shoddy job of joining the case. Mine cracked the outer under a suspension bracket then broke the inner tube off at the end where I'd welded it. The roller bearing you lost (and found) can be bought by the hundred from any bearing supplier. All the seals and bearings are pretty standard and easily available. I think the exception is the little rubber top hats that link the grease paths in the cv joints. I really like your diff lock setup, very clever and not too dissimilar to the sliding setup in a g wagon axle, although the cylinder is on the outside on those. One problem I've come across myself and with others when air actuating the diff lock, the dogs can sit on top of each other with the force of the cylinder holding them there until it slips in when a wheel breaks free. This then smashes the dog to pieces. A friend of mine converted his to cable with a spring setup like standard. As he claims to be able the "feel" them in. And hasn't broken the diff lock since. I'd be interested to see how your front 1 link looks complete. But from your description I think your overthinking the bushing needed, I've ran them directly welded to the axle cases for years with a ballistic joint at the chassis end https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/3-0-ultra-duty-ballistic-joint On my patrol, I run a ballistic joint at the chassis, and I've bolted the 1 link onto the radius arm brackets without any brushing, I've done about 40k road miles in it over 7 years and as regards NVH I can't tell the difference, there is no harshness at all. the loss of roll resistance in the suspension takes a lot of adjusting to though. Thank you very much, high praise indeed from someone who is a forum fabrication legend. I will take a close up of diff ring and pinion, if you wouldn't mind looking at it I will keep a close eye on axles Thank you The little rubber top hats, I am going to use small sections of fuel pipe or similar Very good to know about the diff lock dogs again thank you for you input regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 @dirtydiesel diff pictures as promised regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 From looking at your pics they look like the weaker style ring and pinions. Where the ring gear bolts to the diff carrier the mounting flange is quite thin, thinner even than the minor thickness of the gear. We've had three just blow a section of ring gear off about 4 teeth long. The (later?) Stronger type run a thicker mounting flange with more of a helical cut to the gears, from memory they have a larger pinion. They also have 2 "ears" cast into the carrier bearing caps that locate inside the diff pan. I wouldn't be too worried about your diffs strength. Every time I broke anything in a mog axle it deserved to break. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 1 minute ago, dirtydiesel said: I wouldn't be too worried about your diffs strength. Every time I broke anything in a mog axle it deserved to break. Thanks for looking But above, therein lies the problem I'm a kinda take it easy in the morning, not bothered if it breaks in the afternoon kinda guy regards Stephen 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 1 hour ago, Stellaghost said: therein lies the problem I'm a kinda take it easy in the morning, not bothered if it breaks in the afternoon kinda guy I have never related to a forum post as much as this😂 great work as always stephen👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 1 hour ago, Stellaghost said: I'm a kinda take it easy in the morning, not bothered if it breaks in the afternoon kinda guy That should be on a T-Shirt 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 8 minutes ago, Anderzander said: That should be on a T-Shirt Agreed! The new Lr4x4 merch? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 3 minutes ago, dangerous doug said: Agreed! The new Lr4x4 merch? Dibs on the first one lol regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted January 25, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 25, 2022 (edited) Have been giving the width of axles some thought so I thought I would have a bit play with a spare Unimog rim So first I need to separate centre section from wheel rim Moved it out a bit to see what the cracks is too close to the edge to get decent strength Rolled up some 6mm 50mm flat bar fitted on inside of rim and centre section added to see what's what decided another piece of flat bar needed 3mm x 35mm will weld thicker ring to centre and use thinner ring to add a bit more strength and assist in welding up thinner ring shaped to follow profile of centre section Next two photos show side view and what I'm hoping to achieve next to how my modified uni rover rim is at present so this modification will allow tyres to sit inboard a further 3" on each side therefore reducing total axle/wheel width by 6" in total, will also need to reposition tyre valve to make it easier to get to Tyres will need to come off rims so I can start converting for real More work lol........regards Stephen Edited January 25, 2022 by Stellaghost Remove a photo 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 Does that not interfeer with the steering angle on the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 1 minute ago, Wytze said: Does that not interfeer with the steering angle on the front? I'm hoping not, seems to be plenty of room, it may end up being a slight compromise, slightly greater turning circle over reduced width of vehicle, time will tell regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 7 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: I'm hoping not, seems to be plenty of room, it may end up being a slight compromise, slightly greater turning circle over reduced width of vehicle, time will tell regards Stephen You are right.. The wheel does look good like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 37 minutes ago, Wytze said: Does that not interfeer with the steering angle on the front? So I've had a measure up on the back of this From flat face ( mounting face ) I have a measurement of 61/2" with the modification that measurement will change to 91/2" so an increase of 3" You can see by the photo I have just under 4" of space before it starts fouling the steering, so should be good regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wytze Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 37 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: So I've had a measure up on the back of this From flat face ( mounting face ) I have a measurement of 61/2" with the modification that measurement will change to 91/2" so an increase of 3" You can see by the photo I have just under 4" of space before it starts fouling the steering, so should be good regards Stephen Snugg😁 That will work just fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 What about the inner edges of the rim when on lock? Also, make sure the studs don't stick out too much from the wheel nuts, or you will never get them off after an altercation with a few rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Bowie69 said: What about the inner edges of the rim when on lock? Also, make sure the studs don't stick out too much from the wheel nuts, or you will never get them off after an altercation with a few rocks! Inner edges should be ok if not I will adjust the stops Wheel studs are way too long at the moment, I bought the long ones, in hindsight, bad decision, but they can be trimmed though regards Stephen Edited January 25, 2022 by Stellaghost Predictive pain 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 So, not too worried about unsprung mass then That's a hell of a negative offset you've got going on there - your wheel nuts are going to be the widest part of the truck at this rate! I thought the old Volvo rims with 100% negative offset were something but you've managed to take it to about 110%+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 8 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: your wheel nuts are going to be the widest part of the truck at this rate! Not quite, if you notice on the green wheel it's dished further in due to the centre being the grafted in landrover section, so plenty of cover for wheel nuts, what will stick out possibly is the large single bolt head that holds the hub on, but I'll deal with that if it becomes an issue regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 Where will you put the valve then ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 6 minutes ago, Anderzander said: Where will you put the valve then ? I will re-drill the valve hole on the flat just above where it is now so the valve will stick straight out instead of angling down, the present hole is the larger diameter, will drill it to the smaller valve diameter regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 I do like the lightweights with the lights in the grill. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 25, 2022 Author Share Posted January 25, 2022 3 minutes ago, Anderzander said: I do like the lightweights with the lights in the grill. series 2a. Yep so do I, bought that 24 years ago, when I sent to see it I asked the guy what he was looking for it, the reply was and I quote " we're not talking triple figures here son", offered him £80 which he was happy to accept Did start work on it around 13 yrs ago, but the reality is it needs starting again at some point in the future regards Stephen 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted January 26, 2022 Author Share Posted January 26, 2022 Rolling, rolling,rolling regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted January 31, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 31, 2022 Quite a bit of work today and only achieved one rim altered and even that still needs tyre valve hole drilling in and paint So had a wee bit of a rethink and with undersprung weight in mind I made a couple of alterations Chamfered welding points then welded up and cut excess material away to save some weight Flap wheeled back and welded some additional plates in to overlap welded joint then rigged up previously used jig to set everything square tacked into position and then welded up, couldn't get mig nozzle in on the outside so had to use stick hole cleaned, welded up and blended and lastly a short video of it spinning, only another 4 to go regards Stephen 20220131_134735.mp4 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Nice work, getting wheels to run true is not easy! Drill the holes for the TR15 valves as most tubes that size only have the fat stem. Also you can then use bolt in valves if going tubeless. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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