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4 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Thanks

Still got all droop etc to check, that's why nothing is fully welded yet just in case stuff has to be reconfigured, nowt worse than cutting off after fully welding. The reservoir is just cable tied there for out of the way convenience although it will probably stay there but held with a purpose made clamp regards Stephen

What's your axle width again Stephen? My shocks are properly snug in that location with the axle at full articulation.

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Raining out this morning, so welder is staying in garage, however that did not stop me making some suspension bracketry 

Shock tower parts made for the other side

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then started with rear shock brackets, first fitted some Previously made lower shock bracket

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then bend some 6" x 1/4" flat bar, managed with a slight alteration to lower press die

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Before

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After

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Trial fit and marking hole positions

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Bolted on After a bit of shaping

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A wee bit more trimming and some additional bracing needed to finish and as always the other side to make regards Stephen 

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A bit more done, however I can see alterations required, pleased I didn't fully weld brackets on.

First some bolt tabs

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Welded them on and tried Mr Fox for size, fits but angles for brackets are wrong, as the suspension drops the shock top will bind on brackets so will need to revisit that, otherwise its not looking too bad regards Stephen 

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I think your shocks need to be well inboard at the top? 

Found these old pictures of my 90 and as Daan pointed out at the time I had/have negative shock clearance (or some other fancy phrase!) 

The front tyres would actually rotate the shock body as you moved in that situation and as you can see the back is even worse although due to the top of the rear shocks being more inboard this wasn't an issue. You can see how offset the wheels are from the disc position, I could change the pads without taking the wheel off.

Could you bolt your brackets as they are but to the inside of the chassis rail?

 

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Thanks for taking the time to dig photos out

Have considered moving shocks inboard before( gone to far did it years ago for extra articulation) but I didn't think about it this time, will take a look, the issue for me is because I've never had spherical bearings in my shocks before I didn't take into account where the bearing holder castings were going to clash.  Will remake a blank set up and shape once I'm happy with shock position, really need to get into a position where I can start flexing suspension to see what's what, however I'm not that far away hopefully closer after today regards Stephen

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I may be talking absolute rubbish so I would cycle the suspension asap before doing anything rash, it just seems a shame to make brackets if they are wrong.

I think if the top of the rear shock is inline with the outside of the chassis rail it should be about right.

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2 hours ago, muddy said:

 

I think if the top of the rear shock is inline with the outside of the chassis rail it should be about right.

I would tend to agree, think I will be ok for the front, however the rear sits around 21/2" out with chassis rails to allow for the rear tub.

 I may well have to use some tub space but I will see where I'm at when I start cycling the axles regards Stephen

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27 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

My front shocks are in near as damnit the same place and they get very tight/just touch the shocks at worst case full articulation, and that's with my wider axles than you. 1680 wheel face to wheel face I think it works out at (+120mm over stock defender), and -5mm offset on 12.5" wide tyres.

I'm going to be seriously unhappy if I have to undo the work on the rims to get tyres closer in.....lol regards Stephen

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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

Not quite, need to fit single link cross member and connect up then possibly cycle suspension, have not made my mind up whether to make prop shafts first regards Stephen

I’d cycle the suspension first incase you need to make any major changes. Also gives you chance to measure the lengths in a variety of positions. It also might affect what you do for a prop. Thinking along the lines of something like the old RRC prop that’s super thin (and solid IIRC). 

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14 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

I’d cycle the suspension first incase you need to make any major changes. Also gives you chance to measure the lengths in a variety of positions. It also might affect what you do for a prop. Thinking along the lines of something like the old RRC prop that’s super thin (and solid IIRC). 

That makes sense Ross thank you regards Stephen

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