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On 8/18/2022 at 3:13 PM, Stellaghost said:

 

20220818_145234.thumb.jpg.965eae1740188bf69b8ad6ceee9a2d3b.jpg

20220818_145250.thumb.jpg.2341a18bc82acca096a3991973380771.jpgregards Stephen 

I have a slight concern with this arrangement: you have essentially created 2 joints close to each other, which would want to move upwards when a you get big hit on the front wheels.

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7 minutes ago, Daan said:

I have a slight concern with this arrangement: you have essentially created 2 joints close to each other, which would want to move upwards when a you get big hit on the front wheels.

I also thought this, and thought of the simple solution to weld tabs onto the cross member either side of the clevis with a slot, rather than a hole. This would allow in and out cushioning of the bush but restrict the dogleg situation that probably would Occour with the leverage from the portals. Sorry for not mentioning sooner Stephen, I got distracted  mid reply and forgot

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32 minutes ago, Daan said:

I have a slight concern with this arrangement: you have essentially created 2 joints close to each other, which would want to move upwards when a you get big hit on the front wheels.

 

25 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

I also thought this, and thought of the simple solution to weld tabs onto the cross member either side of the clevis with a slot, rather than a hole. This would allow in and out cushioning of the bush but restrict the dogleg situation that probably would Occour with the leverage from the portals. Sorry for not mentioning sooner Stephen, I got distracted  mid reply and forgot

Thanks for the reply guys, but I'll stick with my plan for now, believe me these bushes are immensely strong and I have no concerns whatsoever about creating a dogleg effect, however if I'm proven wrong then it's only some additional fabrication at the end of the day regards Stephen

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21 minutes ago, Anderzander said:

I didn’t realise you’d bought imperial shocks !

Makes sense for them to fit an old Land Rover though of course 😊

 

11 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Most of these rod ends etc are all imperial -in fact difficult to get in metric at all....

Problem is Fox are American and America still uses imperial measurements, it isn't an issue considering everything has to be made bespoke to fit it all together anyway regards Stephen 

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On 9/6/2022 at 12:15 PM, Stellaghost said:

Shocks are 2" diameter 7 /8" shafts and bolt through spherical is 1 /2" regards Stephen

i thought they were 2.5"s for some reason, reason for asking is on the bigger shocks they have a slightly bigger spherical bearing on the ends, which use a step down reducer which gives more missalignment that the normal parallel spacers which would have helped your misalignment, but not in this case

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Pan hard rod fitted this morning

20220911_115012.thumb.jpg.21490666ea63a0cbc4f509614e5d4f9a.jpg and another job to fine tune, steering arm I made needs a slight adjustment 20220911_111739.thumb.jpg.8309990a30dfffedfa7df2c1bfd3c286.jpg

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I then decide to lift a rear wheel, not enough weight to give suspension a workout will need to put engine and box back on

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Flex not looking too bad at the moment and still plenty of scope on Cushion joint

20220911_114652.thumb.jpg.ff7a05dc6e2eac504a94f9b2d8810d7b.jpg

thoughts as always appreciated regards Stephen 

 

 

 

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Just now, steve b said:

Looking good , can you make the panhard rod any longer ? 

Steve

I probably could or buy an adjustable one, but as it sits at the moment chassis is in the right position with regards to axles, would a longer one not effect positioning at rest regards Stephen

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24 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

I probably could or buy an adjustable one, but as it sits at the moment chassis is in the right position with regards to axles, would a longer one not effect positioning at rest regards Stephen

It's good for panhards to be long and level at rest (with mounts to suit). But also parallel to the drag link.

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2 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

It's good for panhards to be long and level at rest (with mounts to suit). But also parallel to the drag link.

Once the engine and box are sat back on the pan hard will be level, axle tube is still in the same position as original rover axle, lift is caused by portal boxes regards Stephen

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6 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

I probably could or buy an adjustable one, but as it sits at the moment chassis is in the right position with regards to axles, would a longer one not effect positioning at rest regards Stephen

I've got a surplus to requirements (pretty much brand spanking new) heavy duty adjustable one here you can have for nowt Stephen.

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My point about the length is related to changing the axle position control from standard hockey sticks to the single link with a central pivot point along with much greater wheel vertical travel . If there is space  and there would seem to be , then a longer link further out to the swivel on the axle and further outboard of the chassis rail would give less horizontal movement for the much larger vertical travel . 

 If you see what I mean ? 

Steve 

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12 minutes ago, steve b said:

My point about the length is related to changing the axle position control from standard hockey sticks to the single link with a central pivot point along with much greater wheel vertical travel . If there is space  and there would seem to be , then a longer link further out to the swivel on the axle and further outboard of the chassis rail would give less horizontal movement for the much larger vertical travel . 

 If you see what I mean ? 

Steve 

The travel won’t make that much of a difference to it IMO. More important to keep the relationship to the drag link. Big vertical changes where the whole axle moved up or down sides together it would be more important. 

It effectively just pivots about one end or the other depending on which way it articulates for the extremes of travel. 

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58 minutes ago, steve b said:

My point about the length is related to changing the axle position control from standard hockey sticks to the single link with a central pivot point along with much greater wheel vertical travel . If there is space  and there would seem to be , then a longer link further out to the swivel on the axle and further outboard of the chassis rail would give less horizontal movement for the much larger vertical travel . 

 If you see what I mean ? 

Steve 

The drag link ball joint will be something to look at to, i think?  Not to stress it at weird angle's?  

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12 hours ago, steve b said:

My point about the length is related to changing the axle position control from standard hockey sticks to the single link with a central pivot point along with much greater wheel vertical travel . If there is space  and there would seem to be , then a longer link further out to the swivel on the axle and further outboard of the chassis rail would give less horizontal movement for the much larger vertical travel . 

 If you see what I mean ? 

Steve 

I get where your going with that how much more length does an adjustable pan hard rod give or are we talking custom made ??

Regards Stephen

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It will give as much length as it’s got. The adjustable ones are not to give more length for flex, they are to centre the front axle after lifting the car.  Unfortunately you’re stuck with the length unless you chop about and move mounts. Everything is a compromise, and while it may not be ideal for for maximum movement, you have a bolt on arrangement right now, with aftermarket parts available and all the steering all lines up in the way it was designed….ish. 
 

what I will say though, is a 1” Jonny joint or a rose joint would be a good idea given how much movement you will have

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