western Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 OK all, need some info for a change Please I need the measurement of the linkage eye-bolt centre from the side of the transfer case ? or from the outside edge of the eye to the transfer box case ? either will be good I can't find any info in the workshop manual. [pivot pin, item 8 in the attached diagram] mine seems to be wound in to far & over the last few days is illuminating the difflock amber icon on my warning light panel, [the difflock is NOT selected] & its driving me nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Western it will varie from gearbox to gearbox due to wear in the linkages. Best you can do is wined it in or out by trial and error. If you can see the linkages it should be fairly easy to work out how much is needed. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 that was one of my thoughts Mike, also thinking that a measurement would give me a decent point to start from. also as it is now, when difflock is selected then deselected the difflock lever comes over centre to the lef, where it shouldn't ever move too. so something isn't set correctly on my linkage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Can get you one tomorrow afternoon when I come back from work as I've just swapped my transfer box and the floor is still out . Wish I'd have seen it earlier as I've put the box on this afternoon , don't know whether you've had a look at it yet but had a similar problem and it was one of the pins that had come out . cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Thanks Ian tomorrow will be fine, nothing is disconnected, just needs a bit more adjusting a, to keep the light off when not engaged b, to stop it moving to far to the left when disengaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 As Mike has said it's different vehicle to vehicle.The las time I had mine to do I spent a whole morning thrying to get it right. After food I went back to it and I'm sure I adjusted it back to the original position. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 I've always done it by trial and error, you get the right position eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 It’s 57mm western on mine that’s from the gearbox to the outer edge of part 8 in the parts diagram above and I believe I’ve got the same setup as you r380 stumpy and 200tdi . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) Western, 48mm on mine to the pin centre. I found that it needed a bit of adjustment - IIRC inwards, to stop the symptoms similar to what you have. It's only a couple of turns needed to go from not working properly to spot on. Before you start check all the pins haven't gone rusty and add a dab of grease, and the that plastic bushes are nice and clean inside. They invariable get gummed up which makes getting a nice crisp motion more difficult. Edited March 20, 2018 by simonb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 4 hours ago, ianmayco68 said: It’s 57mm western on mine that’s from the gearbox to the outer edge of part 8 in the parts diagram above and I believe I’ve got the same setup as you r380 stumpy and 200tdi . Brill Cheers Ian, yes to 200Tdi & Stumpy R380, at least I've got a start point now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 1 hour ago, simonb said: Western, 48mm on mine to the pin centre. I found that it needed a bit of adjustment - IIRC inwards, to stop the symptoms similar to what you have. It's only a couple of turns needed to go from not working properly to spot on. Before you start check all the pins haven't gone rusty and add a dab of grease, and the that plastic bushes are nice and clean inside. They invariable get gummed up which makes getting a nice crisp motion more difficult. Pins & plastic bushes & spring clips are all present & in good order, Cheers, along with Ian's info I've a great start point Cheers very much, will report back on how it ends up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 How did you get on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 On 3/20/2018 at 2:14 PM, daveturnbull said: I've always done it by trial and error, you get the right position eventually. EVENTUALLY LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Haven't had chance to get to it yet, maybe this afternoon after work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 Had time & decent daylight/weather to get this sorted, had to wind the eye out & then back in a few turns plus made one pivot a bit tighter & now the difflock linkage works as it should, no more difflock light glowing when its not engaged. cheers all for the info/assistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 We'll seems to be some more adjusting to do, light is flickering from nothing to very bright without difflock being selected, but when I do select then disengage light goes out, but comes back on again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 The switch isn’t on it’s way out is it ? Mine was doing that sort of thing and one of the terminals was loose then dropped off . How hard is it to move the lever from diff lock on to disengage it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 30, 2018 Author Share Posted March 30, 2018 I had thought about replacing the switch just in case it was the problem. moving the transfer lever to the various positions is fine, its well lubricated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 Only asked about the lever in case it felt loose , wondered if the grub screw that sets the movement on the lever needed adjusting, there’s 2 one for diff lock and one for high / low box . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 The warning light in mine was coming on in wet conditions for a while. Then while removing the transfer box to swap the main gearbox last summer the terminals fell off, the switch was knackered. Unfortunately I’d not had the foresight to buy a new one in preparation so it’s still broken. I haven’t had much need to use difflock since and to be honest I’ve always found that it’s fairly obvious if it’s engaged on anything other than loose ground. Will swap the switch when the body comes off next month which will save fiddling it from underneath/above with very poor access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 30, 2018 Author Share Posted March 30, 2018 bought a new switch earlier. might get chance to fit it over the long weekend, it's chucking down with rain now, I can get to it by removing the gearbox tunnel in the cab & with a bit of access from underneath, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 haven't had chance to revisit this job yet, hopefully this coming weekend will give me a decent day to sort it, got a new switch, so will most likely swap that in as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 Since I've got my engine and transmission out ATM I did the very same adjustment a couple of weeks ago. I've just measured the distance, as you asked in the OP, and it is 56mm. I did find that even a single thread difference in or out on the pivot pin made the link non-operational. I could engage one gear, but not disengage and engage the other. I admit, I do need new plastic washers/bushes, Item 2 in the figure, and these will be fitted before I refit the bits. Replacing these may give me a little more wiggle room in the adjustment. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 had time to look at this again today, think I've got it sorted now, there was a lot of play in the difflock to long arm U pin link, so managed to shim it out with 2 new washers on each end to each arm, got the eyebolt set so the disengaged position is just left of centre on the difflock lever at transfer box, operating lever in cab is nice & tight, probably the best it's ever been since new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Glad you bot it sorted . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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