monkie Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Land Rover 110, 1989 (no ABS). I need to replace worn out swivel pin housings due to pitting and scoring. Is this the correct product number please? TIR100000 not FTC5105 https://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=TIR100000+&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 110 parts book shows original as FRC2644 for the swivel ball, my 110 is same year as yours. item 6 page 414 in http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/110/5_axles_suspension_steering_p398-471.pdf this one supersedes FRC2644 https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/86665/0/swivel_pin_housing___defender___discovery_1___range_rover_classic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 15, 2018 Author Share Posted July 15, 2018 Thanks Ralph, that is what I thought but I got confused on this link when it mentioned ABS..... https://www.lrdirect.com/FTC5105-Swivel-Hsg-Ball-90-110Rr-Ds-Abs/ Also can you get ones that are coated with a corrosion resistant material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Yes mine were replaced a few years ago with the teflon coated version, I believe mine were genuine LR at around 220 quid each, fitted by the garage I used to take my 110 for servicing. new chromed haven't been available for a few years due to EU legislation on chroming process/use. the link you posted in latest reply looks to be a coated housing just going on the colour. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 Wow, £220 each. I'm going to go for the £65 Bearmach ones and cross my fingers. The picture does look like it is coated with something but for £65 this might just be a stock image. We'll see. I fitted new seals 3 years ago and just buffed up the old swivel housings to remove some damage from corrosion. I'm amazed the seals have lasted this long if I'm honest considering it was a bit of bodge job just to stop the leaks with out forking out for new swivel housings. Thanks for your help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 Well, say what we all like about the blue boxes but my Teflon coated swivels are 4yrs on and still look fresh, no fitment issues either. I did buy the OEM kit that supplies corteco seals and timken bearings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 I'll be pleased if the £65 Bearmach swivels are teflon coated for the price, I'll let you know! I've had good and bad with things out of blue boxes. For seals I know they are no good. I too have gone for the Corteco seals. If a part isn't safety critical and is quite easy to take on and off again I will admit that I do go for Britpart. I think I've only ever sent one thing back because it was not up to the job (I can't remember what it was now) and hats off to Paddocks for sorting it out quickly with no fuss. I do remember fitting a cheap rear crank seal that held for 30 seconds or even less before oil came gushing out. After much frustration, swearing and taking the engine out again I replaced it with a genuine seal and not a drop came out. Lesson learnt🙄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dailysleaze Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 Mine are 4 years old. Not leaking but the coating has worn off where the seal sits in the straight ahead position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 20, 2018 Author Share Posted July 20, 2018 It looks like my £65 Bearmach Swivels are coated in something..... ....Now the small task of old ones off and fitting these new ones. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Bon Courage !! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Stripping and replacing swivels isn't the worst...clearing the mess created by the one shot grease pouring out is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil110 Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 (edited) As with a lot of jobs on a Land Rover, there is a "short cut" Remove the track rods, remove the brake calipers, drain the swivels housings, unfasten the 7(?) bolts which fasten the swivel housing to the axle, remove the entire hub assembly complete with half shaft, remove seal, remove top and bottom swivel pins, remove swivel, reassemble, refit and exhibit smug grin. The trickiest bit is getting the longer half shaft to re-engage in the differential. I did both of mine, out on the front street, in less than a day by using this method Edited July 21, 2018 by neil110 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Thanks - I did the long method on the near side and then tried the above suggestion on the off side. It was very fast on the strip down (just have to be prepared for the weight of the whole hub assembley). I encountered a problem though on the rebuild - I couldn't put the lower swivel pin in as the brake disk was in the way and it is hard to see what you are doing, so I stripped down the hub assembley to put the lower pin in and the housing back on the swivel. I took photos of this method if anyone thinks it might be helpful in the future unless it is well covered ground already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Actually I have just found this in the technical archive if anyone is interested. I will put a couple of pctures up though of my knackered chrome swivel bearing housings. Also it was not easy to put the new lower bearing into the new swivel bearing housing. In the end I put the new swivel bearing housing in the oven for 20 minutes then tapped in the bearing with a soft faced mallett. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil110 Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 I remember when working at Cummins we would assemble the cam followers by putting the receiver part of it in an oven and the securing pin for the roller in liquid Nitrogen. Even then it was a press fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 you can also put the bearing cup in the freezer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 I did exactly that as an extra measure but I imagine it heated up within a couple of seconds of placing it into the housing before I could tap it in. I was quite surprised by how long the swivel housings held the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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